Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.
Glenn Brooks wrote: ↑Sat Aug 25, 2018 7:36 pm
I wonder if worn teeth affect the squareness same way as a bandsaw?
Absolutely, assuming one side is worn more (more dull) than the other, as will a dull side on a parting tool. Because it's generally made of thicker material than a band saw blade, it may not deflect as much, but it will deflect.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
It not just deflection, if one side cuts and other skips, the blade will follow the path of least resistance. That's why if you hit a hard spot with the fine quality steels we use, it's new blade time. From what I've read, power hacksaws tend to be more forgiving.
As for length, Tuesday is rigging day. But if you look at the photos of the couple of other ones in known existence, you'll get an idea. For colour I have hunter green and John Deere green but no Euclid green. chuckle
A man of foolish pursuits, '91 BusyBee DF1224g lathe,'01 Advance RF-45 mill/drill,'68 Delta Toolmaker surface grinder,Miller250 mig,'83 8" Baldor grinder, plus sawdustmakers
My package from KBC came today, in it was 2 10tooth blades and 1 14tothe blade. This morning I finished rewiring it and couldn't wait for the postman so I tried the blade it came with, a dull Sandvik.. Crooked, but with one the new 10t on 1/4 wall 2x2 square tube I got a nice and square cut.
The 10t was a Bipico,HSS, (made in India) $5.60 each and the 14t was a Starrett $20.60. The cheap ones were the last ones they had, and had to go from Detroit to Toronto to Delta (Vancouver) BC.
