index head

[Harold_V]

the scroll very tight fit which I suppose is a good thing.

Indeed it is! If the scroll can't shift, it won't introduce error when alternate key slots (sockets) are used.

H

[ctwo]

I did not bother with the brass pad as I do not expect to work that very much. I thought I might not be able to get the scroll out it was that tight. I spent my time.

Just indicated the head to 0 degrees and checked chuck runout is a good within a thou on a ~1" diameter.

What are some things to consider with this tool? Such as, I recall spro mentioned to retract the pin when removing the chuck. I could feel the chuck vibrate under heavier cuts, so tightened the lock a bit for some drag. There were options like climb vs. conventional milling, etc...

[spro]

Thanks for the reviews. I will disassemble the head to clean and renew the lube. Yea we don't need grit entering that roller bearing and stuff. The Yiyuan chuck is new to me but appears well made. Bone dry and ready but like ctwo said, trust yet verify.
Re climb milling; I suppose a blank on a long mandrel would allow that. If it is tapered mandrel the gear blank is smaller. You already made the choice of which way imparts the milling pressure. Many cases would be the tail as fixed register but these heads are pretty tight now. It does come back to the table itself, backlash.

[Harold_V]

I did not bother with the brass pad as I do not expect to work that very much. I thought I might not be able to get the scroll out it was that tight. I spent my time.

My personal thoughts say you shouldn't overlook the pad. While it will slowly work harden, it will have conformed to the thread it engages, which will prevent damage to the thread, unlike a steel on steel engagement. All it takes is a ham handed individual to tighten the screw, messing up the thread so it becomes difficult, if not impossible, to dismantle. It's a real good idea, and it won't take much time. My money says "get to it".

H

[tornitore45]

The brass pad location is under a set screw that keep the big screw that preload the worm gear. It will be operated may be twice in a lifetime, however before realizing the screw was locked I managed to scrape the the thread a tiny bit. Several rotation restored the thread to a smooth turning but felt pretty stupid failing to notice the locking screw.

[ctwo]

Mine was already loose! I tried a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the worm wheel and gave up before it slipped and chipped something. I may at some time have to take this apart again, but I wasn't expecting it. I coated the inside with grease to help ward off any rust.