retemper a wrench?

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liveaboard
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retemper a wrench?

Post by liveaboard »

I needed a bent 14mm wrench; so I heated and bent one. Then I heated and bent it back.
Now it bends without much effort when I don't want it to.

Can it be heated and quenched? How hot? Oil or water? If oil, is there any preferred type?
Because it would pretty much have to be old engine oil...

I also need to soften, cut, weld, and re-harden a socket.
I couldn't get a 27mm deep socket for old diesel fuel injectors anywhere yesterday and I don't want to wait for the mail, so I bought a regular shallow one with the intent to extend it.
However, the extension will have to be mild steel because that's what I have.
The socket doesn't really have to be hard.
I intend to weld with 7018 rod, because... that's what I have. I need to dry it out first, it's been around for a while and is contaminated.
Russ Hanscom
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by Russ Hanscom »

Definitely not an expert, but I have heated and bent wrenches before, never tried retempering them as my needs did not impose that much load.

To retemper, you need about 1450F, or in the absence of measuring temp, use a magnet, as soon as the steel is non magnetic, it is at the correct temp. I use used engine oil all of the time for quenching/tempering parts - works fine. After quenching, clean an area and heat until the metal changes color - straw color being the hardest and purple the softer - try for somewhere between. Parts heat quickly, so wave it over the heat, check, repeat, until you get the color you want, then quench, water is ok this time.

As to the socket, grind off the chrome in the joint area. Heat until non magnetic then cool slowly.

Good luck with the 7018 rod - that is the right type - but not if it has been damp. I am thinking that 3-4 hours at 300+ F may dry the rod.

Good luck with your project.
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GlennW
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by GlennW »

No need to soften the socket to cut it.

Just part t off in the lathe.

I turned down the OD on a 2" socket on Monday for a friend. He was under the impression that it had to be annealed prior to doing so and was wide eyed when I just chucked it up and turned it.
Glenn

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SteveHGraham
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by SteveHGraham »

Pictures!
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
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liveaboard
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by liveaboard »

Thanks;
I read 200c for an hour, then 400C to dry the rod; that would be around 750F.
I have an oven available that can do that.
The rod is damp; I tried to use it recently and the result was not pretty!
I now have a few nice PVC pipe rod boxes with screw on caps that seal.

Pictures of a bent wrench?
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Harold_V
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by Harold_V »

Sockets. Some may not machine well. I used a pair of them for the drive for the setup I made for milling the worm for my muller, each requiring a tapped hole. They were harder than the hinges of hell (even harder than my head), but just on the surface. Likely nitrided. HSS wouldn't touch them, and carbide had its share of issues, but I managed to get through the skin on both of them, one being much harder (or maybe just deeper) than the other. Both were the same make (brand), although I don't recall what they were. I won't discount the possibility that they were just case hardened.

H
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SteveHGraham
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by SteveHGraham »

Can you put wet rags on the parts you want to stay hard while you anneal the other parts? It works on Forged in Fire!
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Mr Ron
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by Mr Ron »

If you get a cheap Chinese socket, you can turn it down on the lathe, probably with HSS or carbide. Just grind off the chrome plating, if any.
Mr.Ron from South Mississippi
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liveaboard
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by liveaboard »

I tried that once; I don't remember what I was trying to do but a 3/8 ratchet extension would do; but it had to be soft.
So I went to a flea market and got a super cheapo.
It was as hard as my expensive one. in fact, it still is. It lives in my toolbox.
Wet rag; I've done that and it works ok on larger pieces. Not on small things like sockets.

I was at the cheapo tool store, but by the time I thought of this I was 20 miles back at at the expensive tool store. I bought a German 'Gedore' socket for $10.
Cut it with a grinder.
Spigoted it on the lathe and made a matching piece of 1" pipe.
Had to bore the pipe a little to fit over the injector.
Light press in the vice.
Dried the rods in an electric kiln to 450C
Welded and dressed it a little on the lathe.
It's not pretty, but that was never the criteria.
home made injector socket.jpg
pvc rod boxes.jpg
Even the injector with the sensor wire can be removed/installed, the plug and wire fit up inside.
I decided not to worry about hardness; injectors aren't hard torqued.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by warmstrong1955 »

I've modified dozens of sockets on the lathe, and the mill. Cheapy China things to real ones....Proto, Williams, Snap-On, Craftsman etc.
Most good ones, are a tough go with HSS. Slow, and I have had to resharpen often.
Carbide works quite well, and that's what I use. Only way to go for milling.
Some, besides being hard, can be work hardened, especially impact sockets. I usually use the regular flavor.
I've never ground off the chrome first, and it's never been a problem to cut through. Same goes for chrome plated 1045 cylinder rod. Chrome is not that thick, nor is it that 'attached' to the steel.

They also weld well. I've made many spindle nut sockets, and used old broken sockets for the square drive for 'em.

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
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liveaboard
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by liveaboard »

Those 19 year old injectors didn't come out willingly; it took a 3' breaker bar. Somehow, the level of difficulty made the tool worthwhile.

Trivia; although inch denominated tools and fasteners are essentially absent in Europe, socket handles and extensions are the same as in the US, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 inch square drive.
Screwdriver bit shanks are also 1/4" hex, but if you ask for that here they'll tell you they don't have inch sizes.
Only 6.2mm is available here in Europe.

I haven't retempered the wrench yet...
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Harold_V
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Re: retemper a wrench?

Post by Harold_V »

liveaboard wrote: Fri Nov 02, 2018 2:51 am I haven't retempered the wrench yet...
Depending on the number of times the wrench got heated, it may or may not be heat treatable. That's due to decarburization. Surface carbon gets burned away, so with a thin enough cross section, it may not harden. Not likely, mind you, but it's something to consider.

Hot rolled heat treatable materials are available already "decarbed", which addresses that problem. They remove about 1/16" per side of the material to eliminate the carbon poor surface.

Thought you might like to know.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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