key type chuck with R8 mount

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curtis cutter
Posts: 558
Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:46 pm
Location: Curtis, WA

Re: key type chuck with R8 mount

Post by curtis cutter »

New chuck, new adapter and good technique will be the solution.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
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Harold_V
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: key type chuck with R8 mount

Post by Harold_V »

curtis cutter wrote: Mon Dec 10, 2018 10:03 am New chuck, new adapter and good technique will be the solution.
Exactly my point. That system is proven by time.

While I've not seen it in published articles, my choice in seating a chuck on a new arbor is to use the chuck itself as the force required. After cleaning both the spigot and the shank taper (use a solvent that leaves NO residue), place the chuck on the taper, then give the shank a sharp rap on a piece of aluminum. The aluminum should be on a solid surface (like your mill table). The weight of the chuck, alone, will be more than sufficient to permanently set the taper.

This method eliminates the need to press the chuck, or to strike it with a hammer, neither of which methods is a good idea.

Solvent?
Lacquer thinner
Alcohol
Mineral spirits
Stoddard Solvent
Acetone
even MEK or 1,1,1-Trichloroethane, assuming you'd be fortunate enough to have some.

Apply generously, ensuring that all traces of oils/grease are removed, then hit both pieces with an air blast. It is now time to assemble.

A quick wipe with a cloth is not enough.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
curtis cutter
Posts: 558
Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:46 pm
Location: Curtis, WA

Re: key type chuck with R8 mount

Post by curtis cutter »

Harold_V wrote: Mon Dec 10, 2018 5:00 pm
curtis cutter wrote: Mon Dec 10, 2018 10:03 am New chuck, new adapter and good technique will be the solution.
Exactly my point. That system is proven by time.

While I've not seen it in published articles, my choice in seating a chuck on a new arbor is to use the chuck itself as the force required. After cleaning both the spigot and the shank taper (use a solvent that leaves NO residue), place the chuck on the taper, then give the shank a sharp rap on a piece of aluminum. The aluminum should be on a solid surface (like your mill table). The weight of the chuck, alone, will be more than sufficient to permanently set the taper.

This method eliminates the need to press the chuck, or to strike it with a hammer, neither of which methods is a good idea.

Solvent?
Lacquer thinner
Alcohol
Mineral spirits
Stoddard Solvent
Acetone
even MEK or 1,1,1-Trichloroethane, assuming you'd be fortunate enough to have some.

Apply generously, ensuring that all traces of oils/grease are removed, then hit both pieces with an air blast. It is now time to assemble.

A quick wipe with a cloth is not enough.

H
I have some PPG DX330 wax and grease remover used for auto painting and it seems to do a good job of removing surface contaminates.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
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SteveHGraham
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Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: key type chuck with R8 mount

Post by SteveHGraham »

I tried the clever method of heating the chuck and freezing the arbor. Seemed to work until the day the chuck fell off.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
johnfreese
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2016 2:10 am

Re: key type chuck with R8 mount

Post by johnfreese »

Drill and tap the JT end of the arbor 1/4-20. Drill through the back of the chuck 9/32. Use a SHCS to hold the chuck on the taper.
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