Wood Shaper Cleaning Up Steel Block

[pollys1dad]

I got this block together with a job lot of cutters.
Looking at photos I was wondering how I could clean up the block and cutters.
I know paraffin will remove pitch build up on a saw blade. Would this be effective on cleaning up the block, don't think is pitch on outside of the block?
I have quite a lot of paraffin.
Thanks.

[Mr Ron]

We have a product here called "Evapo-Rust". If it is available in the UK, it is a great product. Other than that, coco cola will remove light surface rust; just keep the cutters and block submerged in the liquid. Coco cola contains phosphoric acid which removes rust and grease. Works in taking oil stains out of a concrete driveway.

[BadDog]

Better yet, get "concrete etch" (not sure what it's called there). Higher concentration of Phosphoric Acid, and much cheaper by content. The stuff I get in a gallon bottle gets diluted between 1:2 and 1:10 depending on what I'm doing, and I generally keep the solution for future jobs until it's nearly "dead". I've cleaned up some pretty rusty stuff using that in an appropriately sized/shaped container, and it doesn't harm most finishes. I've even started with rusty cast iron where it looked like the finish was mostly gone, only to find much more remained than I realized when the rust was gone.

And it's quite safe. As it's intended to mop/spread around on concrete and wash off, there is no disposal issue. At most, add in something basic (baking powder etc) to get a more neutral PH, but generally gets there anyway in use.

Thoroughly degrease parts before adding to solution. And carbon steel in particular can get a blackish coating that remains gray after cleanup (generally with wire brush) without further abrasive efforts. Not pretty, but it's a good protective coating.

[SteveHGraham]

Ospho is a brand of phosphoric acid used by boaters.

As for pitch, soak your items in a 50/50 solution of liquid laundry detergent and water. Should come loose in 30 minutes. It's pretty shocking when you see how well it works.

[BadDog]

Ospho was my earliest exposure to de-rust (and conversion) with phosphoric acid. My uncle was a boilermaker, but between gigs he worked in a shipyard/drydock on the gulf, and they used it in bulk. But you can't get Ospho easily in many inland areas, Concrete etch is available at the local home store.

[pollys1dad]

Yes Evapo-Rust available here too. Thanks to others for input.

[whateg0]

I'm gonna have to check out phosphoric acid. I've used vinegar, but after it gets rid of the rust, it keeps going. I used muriatic acid as well at times, but it, too keeps going after it's gotten past the rust. (I keep it around for removing zinc plating on hardware or pipe before welding.) Evapo-rust and some other formula that I bought off of ebay seem to work well new, but wear out pretty quick in my experience.

Dave

[whateg0]

I was going to suggest gasoline for removing the pitch, but I don't know how well it does. I know it removes varnish from lathe chucks very well, though. Yeah, it's not environmentally or health friendly.

[Inspector]

There is a concentrated product made in England similar to Evaporust called Restore. Maybe you can locate some close to home. Lee Valley sell it here, probably other too.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 3415,43439

Pete

[Harold_V]

Concrete etch is available at the local home store.

You have to be a little careful when buying a product suited for etching concrete, as it is often hydrochloric (or Muriatic) acid. While it will remove rust, it also dissolves sound metal, so it can be quite destructive. Worst of all, the resulting surface will rust readily, while the use of phosphoric acid yields a relatively inert surface, and it doesn't harm sound steel. That said, I heartily endorse the phosphoric acid approach, and would discourage the use of HCl (Muriatic) for reasons already mentioned, but the fumes are horribly destructive, too. Use it in your shop and you'll find pretty much anything ferrous rusted quickly. Who needs that?

One word of caution when using chemical solvents. If they produce hydrogen, you run the risk of hydrogen embrittlement, which can be a problem with heat treated items. Baking the items @ 375° F for a couple hours will go a long way towards eliminating the absorbed hydrogen.

H

[K. Browers]

Finally a subject I can help with.. A shaper is one of my Favourite machines in the factory.. If the cutter block were mine I would not use acid on it. A brass brush to remove the surface rust and a light oiling is all that is needed. To sharpen the cutters stoning them on their flat surface is all that is needed also. If they are very dull a light skim on a surface grinder works well. The knives are inserted into the block by aligning them on the pins VERY IMPORTANT. There are 4 knives to one set usually. It seems sort of strange but one set is put in the cutter body backwards thes cuttere are usually a tiny bit shorter than the others in the set.. this acts as an anti kick back feature...then the wedge is tightened by screwing in the set screws against the cutter body raising and tightening it against the cutters. Be absoulitly sure the cutters are held in by the pins through their holes... the safest way to use these or any other cutters for straight line moulding is with a power feeder... I also advise running the cutterhead on a machine with at least a one inch spindle... while I am not a safety nanny I will caution you to be sure of your set up and procedure

[K. Browers]

Hello again. I just opened your photos and expanded them. Your set of cutters has etching on them one is labeled cutter and one is labeled limiter. The limiter is the cutter that should be installed in what seems the backwards direction.. be safe...
Karel