New Old Baldor Buffer

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spro
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by spro » Mon Jul 01, 2019 1:09 am

I suppose by now, you have an actual picture. We can surmise ways the bearings would be replaced by using the threaded shaft at either end. The first thing is removing the bearing seal in order to see what is in there. May be a clip. With that and stuff removed, you'll see the inner race of the outboard bearing.

Mr Ron
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by Mr Ron » Mon Jul 01, 2019 1:31 pm

I don't know what you mean by "wheels". If you are referring to grinding wheels, I don't believe a long shaft motor is the right vehicle for grinding. As far as I know, those long shaft motors were designed for buffing and polishing, hence the 3/4" arbor. Grinder have shields and a tool rest. No way can you put that on a long shaft motor.
Mr.Ron from South Mississippi

spro
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by spro » Mon Jul 01, 2019 7:54 pm

I read you but either way, Steve is going to replace a bearing or two. Getting there is removing the end cover/ bell cap. When that is detached, he can see again, a tube of pipe to be turned to fit against the inner race of the outboard bearing. The shaft nut should apply enough force to the tube to drive the bearings out of the bell cap.
Let's say this works. Now he has two bearing on a shaft with spacer in the middle. I believe the inner part of shaft with the bearings is larger diameter than 3/4". That is sorta why I mentioned a "clip". From this, he can use a bearing puller unit with the normal threaded holes, longer bolts and draw each bearing out.
I'm not going further on this because usually the reply is " they just fell out in my hand"

spro
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by spro » Tue Jul 02, 2019 4:38 pm

I'm returning to apologize for incorrect info about the 332 B. I see now, it has bearing end caps, so pushing the outer bearing back into the bell, probably isn't going to work. I haven't found any mechanical drawing to confirm any process. Page 8 of the pdf makes it look like it is a secret.

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SteveHGraham
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by SteveHGraham » Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:36 pm

I think the hydraulic press is the solution.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.

Harold_V
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by Harold_V » Wed Jul 03, 2019 1:40 am

SteveHGraham wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:36 pm
I think the hydraulic press is the solution.
It can get you in trouble if there's any misalignment. If you have an arbor press, make that your first choice, as you can feel what's happening and stop before any damage can be done.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

Magicniner
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by Magicniner » Thu Jul 04, 2019 3:50 am

And don't forget that the base has external flanges with bolt holes which are visible in your photo so that you can bolt it down, they aren't there just for aesthetics :D

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SteveHGraham
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by SteveHGraham » Fri Jul 05, 2019 4:00 pm

Blissfully unable to see certain posts of no value to anyone, I will continue.

Today I stuck new bearings in the Baldor.

I bought sealed NSK bearings. I opened the buffer up, and there was a ton of grease around the old bearings. It wasn't the nicest-looking grease, either. I am going to guess that someone pried the seals off the original bearings and greased them from time to time instead of replacing them.The seals fell off when I took the end caps off the buffer.

I have never put a bearing on a crusty shaft before, so I made the mistake of trying to press an old bearing off without removing rust. That didn't go too well, so I pushed it back on and used the buffer's motor to spin the shafts while I removed the rust with an old grinder belt.

After that, everything went pretty easily.

The buffer spins very smoothly now. It's weird, but the bad bearings made it run as though it were unbalanced.

I would have taken Harold's advice and used the arbor press, but right now it doesn't have a stand.

I feel like I came out really well. I have $263 plus gas money in the buffer, and a Jet would have run $350 or so on sale.

I don't like the safety switch. It doesn't make sense for a one-man home shop, where no one is going to leave a tool running after a power outage, and it's mounted in a bad place. I plan to mount the buffer on a heavy wheeled platform and put a foot switch on it so I can kill the buffer if there is a problem. The current safety switch is hard to get to in a hurry, and you have to be close to the wheels to use it.

Got a bunch of stuff from Caswell Plating, as was recommended. What a great website. Stuff that was very hard to find elsewhere was readily available. I now have several compounds and different types of wheels for various abrasives. I also bought a good wire wheel from Ebay or Amazon.
Attachments
07 05 19 Baldor buffer armature on hydraulic press small.jpg
07 05 19 Baldor buffer armature with shafts cleaned and 1 new bearing small.jpg
07 05 19 Baldor buffer reassembled with wheels small.jpg
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.

Harold_V
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by Harold_V » Sat Jul 06, 2019 1:53 am

SteveHGraham wrote:
Fri Jul 05, 2019 4:00 pm
I don't like the safety switch. It doesn't make sense for a one-man home shop, where no one is going to leave a tool running after a power outage, and it's mounted in a bad place.
If you're talking about the switch you had shown earlier, don't get rid of it. Leave it in place for motor protection. You can add any number of other switches, but don't eliminate that one. It can spell the difference between a burned, or not burned, motor, assuming I'm right about it being a motor starter. It likely has heaters that disconnect the motor if you load it too heavily for a prolonged period of time. Just leave it on all the time and control the motor by the switch of your choosing. The only time you'll have to use it is if it trips, at which time you simply reset the button.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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SteveHGraham
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by SteveHGraham » Sat Jul 06, 2019 7:39 am

I need to to look for a manual that explains the switch.

It seems to kill the motor when I try to start the buffer while there is friction on the shafts.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.

Harold_V
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by Harold_V » Sat Jul 06, 2019 4:05 pm

Then it's doing the job it is intended to do. If it kills the motor prematurely, then the heaters may not be correct for the motor. They are replaceable and can be found on ebay for a decent price. I'm assuming it's an Allen Bradley. Could be wrong. Remove the cover and see what you can learn.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

Howard Gorin
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Re: New Old Baldor Buffer

Post by Howard Gorin » Sat Jul 13, 2019 4:50 am

You should use sealed, not shielded bearings.
Dust and grit will get into shielded bearings.

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