Splicing Romex?
-
- Posts: 559
- Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:46 pm
- Location: Curtis, WA
Re: Splicing Romex?
Remember there are a certain number of each gauge of wire each color of wire nut will hold. As previously mentioned, calculate your box fill. Romex must be fastened within 6" of the box unless clamped in the box. Leave 6" of wire ends in the box.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
-
- Posts: 1852
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2016 4:05 pm
- Location: Elmwood, Wisconsin
Re: Splicing Romex?
Also realize that the code just tells you how many wires you are allowed to *try* to get into a given size box. Make things easy on yourself and use oversize boxes. The job will go faster and you will have room for expansion.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Splicing Romex?
The existing wiring is on top of the walls and trusses, and the builders dropped it down into the cinderblocks. This allowed them to have flush-mount boxes for the owner to plug into.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
-
- Posts: 559
- Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:46 pm
- Location: Curtis, WA
Re: Splicing Romex?
So the cinder blocks contain no rebar or concrete or is it in conduit encased in concrete?SteveHGraham wrote: ↑Fri Sep 06, 2019 10:00 am The existing wiring is on top of the walls and trusses, and the builders dropped it down into the cinderblocks. This allowed them to have flush-mount boxes for the owner to plug into.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Splicing Romex?
There is no conduit. It's just cinderblocks and wire in the cavities.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Splicing Romex?
If the outlet box is steel, there are other boxes which "piggy back" on to their face. These boxes are open at the back, allowing wiring and wire nuts. They can also be larger than the standard one, allowing a switch or duplex. Since they are larger, there holes to mount them ( via simple anchors) to the wall securely.
-
- Posts: 1852
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2016 4:05 pm
- Location: Elmwood, Wisconsin
Re: Splicing Romex?
So they cut the boxes into the block?
Re: Splicing Romex?
Good point John. So they did what? I'm just trying, same as you. He said they are flat to the wall.
Re: Splicing Romex?
The better way is to connect the existing wire to the new wire and pigtail to the current outlet (three wires in a wire nut). Do this for the hot, the neutral AND the ground. And all this has to be in a box.
As for what you are calling Romex, it's armored cable, right? Does it have a separate ground wire? Armored cable would be to code, but regular house wire would not, if exposed.
Conduit would really be the way to go.
As for what you are calling Romex, it's armored cable, right? Does it have a separate ground wire? Armored cable would be to code, but regular house wire would not, if exposed.
Conduit would really be the way to go.
Re: Splicing Romex?
BX is armored cable type but thanks for input to the discussion. There are reasons for the many types but heck, what about roof leak, where the top junction fills with water.
Re: Splicing Romex?
A simple rule of thumb. If you can put a fork in your hand and stab a wire, it is done wrong!
If you go by NEC code, all wiring must be protected up to 8" from the floor, by a wall covering or conduit. The romex that is fished over the rafters and down into the cinder block, to the box that is flush mounted with the surface of the wall, is fine.
If it were mine, I would install one of these on the exiting box,
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City- ... /206465546
Then run conduit down the wall, PVC or EMT to the next box, one like the one above, but without the hole in the back.
Or you can cut the wire in the rafters to create a splice, by installing a nail-on type box, and putting the splice inside the box. Run wire from that box to the new out let and to another nail-on box, also in the rafters, closer to the original, allowing slack for a second splice to pick up the wire for the original outlet.
I am a electrical contractor by trade, if you want to talk, send me a PM.
If you go by NEC code, all wiring must be protected up to 8" from the floor, by a wall covering or conduit. The romex that is fished over the rafters and down into the cinder block, to the box that is flush mounted with the surface of the wall, is fine.
If it were mine, I would install one of these on the exiting box,
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City- ... /206465546
Then run conduit down the wall, PVC or EMT to the next box, one like the one above, but without the hole in the back.
Or you can cut the wire in the rafters to create a splice, by installing a nail-on type box, and putting the splice inside the box. Run wire from that box to the new out let and to another nail-on box, also in the rafters, closer to the original, allowing slack for a second splice to pick up the wire for the original outlet.
I am a electrical contractor by trade, if you want to talk, send me a PM.
Live for the moment!
Prepare for tomorrow!
Forgive the past!
Prepare for tomorrow!
Forgive the past!
Re: Splicing Romex?
It frequently is easier to add a sub panel on the wall near the new outlets. Then you only need to run a single wire from the original panel to the new panel. In my case I brought a 220v line from the old to the new then split it to some 120v and a couple of 220v outlets.