Splicing Romex?

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curtis cutter
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by curtis cutter » Thu Sep 05, 2019 8:51 pm

Remember there are a certain number of each gauge of wire each color of wire nut will hold. As previously mentioned, calculate your box fill. Romex must be fastened within 6" of the box unless clamped in the box. Leave 6" of wire ends in the box.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.

John Hasler
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by John Hasler » Thu Sep 05, 2019 10:54 pm

Also realize that the code just tells you how many wires you are allowed to *try* to get into a given size box. Make things easy on yourself and use oversize boxes. The job will go faster and you will have room for expansion.

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SteveHGraham
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by SteveHGraham » Fri Sep 06, 2019 10:00 am

The existing wiring is on top of the walls and trusses, and the builders dropped it down into the cinderblocks. This allowed them to have flush-mount boxes for the owner to plug into.
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curtis cutter
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by curtis cutter » Fri Sep 06, 2019 10:06 am

SteveHGraham wrote:
Fri Sep 06, 2019 10:00 am
The existing wiring is on top of the walls and trusses, and the builders dropped it down into the cinderblocks. This allowed them to have flush-mount boxes for the owner to plug into.
So the cinder blocks contain no rebar or concrete or is it in conduit encased in concrete?
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.

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SteveHGraham
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by SteveHGraham » Fri Sep 06, 2019 10:56 am

There is no conduit. It's just cinderblocks and wire in the cavities.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.

spro
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by spro » Fri Sep 06, 2019 12:01 pm

If the outlet box is steel, there are other boxes which "piggy back" on to their face. These boxes are open at the back, allowing wiring and wire nuts. They can also be larger than the standard one, allowing a switch or duplex. Since they are larger, there holes to mount them ( via simple anchors) to the wall securely.

John Hasler
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by John Hasler » Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:44 pm

So they cut the boxes into the block?

spro
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by spro » Fri Sep 06, 2019 3:36 pm

Good point John. So they did what? I'm just trying, same as you. He said they are flat to the wall.

SLK001
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by SLK001 » Fri Sep 06, 2019 6:57 pm

The better way is to connect the existing wire to the new wire and pigtail to the current outlet (three wires in a wire nut). Do this for the hot, the neutral AND the ground. And all this has to be in a box.

As for what you are calling Romex, it's armored cable, right? Does it have a separate ground wire? Armored cable would be to code, but regular house wire would not, if exposed.

Conduit would really be the way to go.

spro
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by spro » Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:10 pm

BX is armored cable type but thanks for input to the discussion. There are reasons for the many types but heck, what about roof leak, where the top junction fills with water.

Patio
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by Patio » Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:12 pm

A simple rule of thumb. If you can put a fork in your hand and stab a wire, it is done wrong!
If you go by NEC code, all wiring must be protected up to 8" from the floor, by a wall covering or conduit. The romex that is fished over the rafters and down into the cinder block, to the box that is flush mounted with the surface of the wall, is fine.
If it were mine, I would install one of these on the exiting box,
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City- ... /206465546
Then run conduit down the wall, PVC or EMT to the next box, one like the one above, but without the hole in the back.
Or you can cut the wire in the rafters to create a splice, by installing a nail-on type box, and putting the splice inside the box. Run wire from that box to the new out let and to another nail-on box, also in the rafters, closer to the original, allowing slack for a second splice to pick up the wire for the original outlet.
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TomB
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Re: Splicing Romex?

Post by TomB » Sat Sep 07, 2019 10:40 am

It frequently is easier to add a sub panel on the wall near the new outlets. Then you only need to run a single wire from the original panel to the new panel. In my case I brought a 220v line from the old to the new then split it to some 120v and a couple of 220v outlets.

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