Pull start repair.

[Harold_V]

If the parts soldered with Sta-Silv Black will tolerate being quenched, simply plunge them in water immediately after they are soldered (make sure the solder has solidified). That will usually remove the fux.

I also like to blast, be it glass bead or abrasive (I use aluminum oxide).

H

[Cary Stewart]

Mineral oil is he preferred oil for Oilite bearings. 3 & 1 Oil is an absolute No-No. It will cause the mineral oil to coagulate. That means the oil will not flow to the running surface as it warms up. I am guessing now but I suspect that the additives in any motor oil will not be compatible with the factory oil.
Cary

[NP317]

I have used lathe way oil for all the moving parts on my Ten Wheeler steamer. Oilite bearings on most surfaces.
After 500+ miles of running I cannot measure any wear on the steel parts, and the bushings remain round and close fitting.
Pins are not hardened!
One advantage to the way oil: It is "stickier" and remains in place longer than many other types.
So far, so good.
RussN

[B Mann]

Can you use lead pipe solder flux??? Not enough flux maybe where I went wrong. A learning experience. I am used to prefluxed solder.

No. The flux required for hard soldering (silver brazing, or silver soldering) is very different--it must be capable of handling the much higher temperatures involved. It is a water/alcohol based paste. There are formulations on the market sold under the Harris name, and commonly found at welding supply stores. Two types are available--one which is white, the other a dark brown color, which is the one I highly recommend. It is named Sta-Silv Black. It tolerates higher temperatures without failing.

If you fluxed with other materials, I'm surprised that you achieved any degree of success, assuming you used silver solder, not silver bearing solder.

Note that silver solder is not the same thing as silver bearing solder. Silver bearing solder melts at lower temperatures, and has lower tensile strength. It is silver in color. Silver solder (silver braze) melts in excess of 1,000° F and has a yellow color, due to the copper contained within.

H

Been a while since I checked the thread, but glad I did. I do have silver solder. And will look for the sta-silv flux. I do not use the silver solder very often. I picked it up for some copper piping. The HVAC guy said he does not use flux, because the copper is new. It did not even dawn on me to use it. Live and learn. Thanks

[Harold_V]

The HVAC guy said he does not use flux, because the copper is new. It did not even dawn on me to use it. Live and learn. Thanks

That's likely not all he didn't tell you. What he left out is that he most likely uses Sil-Fos, which doesn't require flux. Beyond it's use, I am not aware of any solder that will work without fluxing, as the torch oxidizes the metal, so it won't solder. The phosphorus in Sil-Fos addresses the oxidizing. It is not suited to soldering steel as I recall.

H