Bearing frustrations

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curtis cutter
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Bearing frustrations

Post by curtis cutter »

Maybe it is just me but why does it seem I am always working on trailer bearings but the same style bearing on cars seem to last for many thousands of miles? I use the manufacture's adjustment torque and seating recommendations, always replace bearings in full sets, but just seem to have issues frequently.

On a side note, some years ago I went to a local trailer sales and service place to get a new bearing set as the rollers were pretty chewed up. They had the inner bearing race with the new rollers and cage but no outer races. The guy there said they usually replace only the inner race and cage but usually do not replace the outer race hence they do not have them in stock... I never went back to them.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
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liveaboard
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by liveaboard »

Try replacing with a better quality of bearing, from a bearing stockist, NOT a parts store.
SKF or similar.
when your bearings are worked hard, that will often be the difference between early failure and long life.

And (obviously) pack well with good quality bearing grease.
Russ Hanscom
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by Russ Hanscom »

I like Timken bearings, When the chinese bearings in my trailer failed, I went back with them. Have used them forever and never had a problem; they will cost twice as much as a generic bearing.
Glenn Brooks
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Trailer bearings I’ve had have always seemed to be more readily exposed to moisture and road grime than car bearings. I suspect moisture and grime works it’s way into the bearing surfaces more readily, hence requires more frequent replacement intervals. Particularly so for boat trailers. I keep my gillnetter in Alaska on a three axle 30’ trailer for 10 years, and had to replace the bearings every spring, like clockwork. Once the trailer went into the salt water to launch the boat, it was all over. Impossible to rinse the salt out of the hubs.

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liveaboard
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by liveaboard »

Those hubs have a cup on the outside, and a grease seal on the inside.
When you change the bearing, normally you change the seal as well; if the spindle is dirty or rusty, it will cut up the new seal.

A short immersion shouldn't result in water ingress.

I would suggest more grease, and use hydroscopic.
A lot of grease has detergents added, avoid that kind.

Trailers tend to have small wheels, so the rpm is high at speed. Bearings are near their design limits a lot of the time.
Still, it comes down to correct preload and adequate grease.

Timken bearings are good. I don't think I've seen them in Europe.

Another quality brand here is FAG. Every time I get a FAG bearing, I wonder if they sell them in the US with a name like that...
John Hasler
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by John Hasler »

Hydrophobic.

FAG bearings are available here.
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liveaboard
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by liveaboard »

Yes, hydrophobic, thanks for the correction!


FAG bearings, not homophobic.
Russ Hanscom
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by Russ Hanscom »

For boat trailers, the Bearing Buddy worked well for me. An outer cap with a grease fitting and a spring; pumping in grease pressurized the wheel hub a bit and if any grease extruded, the spring reservoir replaced it. I used them on fresh water boat trailers for a number of years without a failure.
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BadDog
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by BadDog »

I had those on my rock crawler trailer too. That trailer went all over the SW, probably close to 20k miles over 6 or so years hauling my buggy down highways at 80+, down washed out dirt roads, and a few times across shallow creek crossings. Never had a bearing problem with only minimal routine maintenance. By which I think I broke them down and cleaned/regreased twice the whole time I had that trailer.
Russ
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curtis cutter
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by curtis cutter »

I believe at the next service I am going to replace the old bearings with high quality bearings, thoroughly clean the old grease out out of hub and repack with good grease and finally replace the wheel seals with perhaps a getter quality seal.

My process of bearing replacement includes torqueing the bearings to 25 pounds while rotating the wheel and then back the nut off and only put a finger pressure on the nut for final preload. Does that sound reasonable to you guys who get a lot of life out of your bearings?
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
Russ Hanscom
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by Russ Hanscom »

Pretty close. Finger pressure plus what it takes to get to the next cotter slot.
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liveaboard
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Re: Bearing frustrations

Post by liveaboard »

Just so it rotates smoothly without noticeable friction, but also has no detectable slop when you attempt to wobble the hub.

And remember to clean + check the ring of the spindle where the seal rides.
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