sticky test indicator

[ramsey]

I need a little advice please.
we have a starrett #711 indicator in the shop that has became very stiff.
I am wondering if anyone can talk me thru a trouble shooting procedure for this indicator. The indicator has been kept clean, but has seen a few nights below freezing when the heater went down for a week.

Thanks for any help!!
Mike

[Harold_V]

Check if the jewel is out of the spiral shaft. That's a common occurrence with that indicator. It will move, but very stiff, and doesn't register the movement properly when that happens. Remove the screw cap on the side and take a look to see if the jewel is running in the spiral shaft, or if it is out of the groove. Beyond that, I have little to offer.

I've owned one of those since 1957 and I'm still not fond of it. I use the B&S BesTest indicators in place of them, found they are far superior. The Starrett indicator is, in my opinion, a tool for which Starrett should make an apology to the consumer. They clearly are not a good indicator. Please understand that my toolbox is almost entirely Starrett. I'm not bad-mouthing Starrett, only the indicator.

Harold

[Orrin]

Like Harold said, check to see if the jeweled finger has jumped out of the spiral cam. The pointer (and cam) needs one turn of preload. Every one of the used 711s that I've gotten had either been tinkered with or dropped and didn't have the required preload.

Check to see if the pivot screw is too tight. I put a drop of Starrett oil on the screw whenever it gets sticky.

All that said, however, 99-percent of the stickiness with my 711s is caused by the stylus getting off center and rubbing on the head of the pivot screw. Usually, moving the stylus back one click will recenter it.

Some styli I've gotten still refuse to operate freely. They always rub on the head of the pivot screw. With those, I took a small Dremel stone and enlarged the cavity in the base of the stylus.

The 711 is prone to sticking. I never trust them until I've flicked them with my finger and verified they operate freely. This has to be done every time the stylus is re-positioned.

[img]/ubb/images/graemlins/cool.gif"%20alt="[/img]Orrin

[JimGlass]

Wow Harold;

Thems fighten words for some guys. I have known Toolmakers that thought the "Last Word" indicators were just great. I have one in my garage shop along with a couple of Brown & Sharpe and Interapid. While I cannot explain anything wrong with the Starrett indicator, it has never been one of my favorites to use.



In the pic is an old Brown & Sharpe indicator with the black housing. A tad similar to the Starrett. I have two of these indicators that belonged to my Dad. I take care of them and use them for sentimental reasons.

The Interapid indicator is real nice and one of my favorites particularly because of the large face and the repeatability.
It was damaged where I work and was discarded. I got it and paid $75 to have it repaired.
Jim

[Harold_V]

Wow Harold;

Thems fighten words for some guys. I have known Toolmakers that thought the "Last Word" indicators were just great.

Hi Jim!

Yeah, I suppose it does hit a nerve with a few folks. I was a very happy owner until I started precision grinding. While I don't recall the numbers now, what turned my head was the day I dialed in an object and thought I had it running true. I recall one of my fellow workers, one with greater experience than I had, suggested I check the part with another indicator. I couldn't believe my eyes when I found the part with considerable runout. Please do keep in mind that we worked routinely in tenths, so it's not like it was running out a lot, just that my indicator showed no runout at all. They seem to lose the ability to read under a thou, but then that may be different from indicator to indicator. In general, though, I never worked in a shop where they were considered an acceptable indicator. In fact, one of my places of employment, a military installation (Tooele Army Depot, now defunct), didn't allow any Starrett tools in the shop. All measuring instruments were provided by the tool crib, and everything was Mitutoyo. Never could figure that one. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/confused.gif"%20alt="[/img]

I have one in my garage shop along with a couple of Brown & Sharpe and Interapid. While I cannot explain anything wrong with the Starrett indicator, it has never been one of my favorites to use.

Sort of sounds a lot like the typical response of most guys, Jim. There's too many indicators that work better to risk a project to one of those dudes.

In the pic is an old Brown & Sharpe indicator with the black housing. A tad similar to the Starrett. I have two of these indicators that belonged to my Dad. I take care of them and use them for sentimental reasons.

The Interapid indicator is real nice and one of my favorites particularly because of the large face and the repeatability.
It was damaged where I work and was discarded. I got it and paid $75 to have it repaired.
Jim

That's a nice collection of indicators, Jim, and I can understand your attachment to the B&S ones, even if they didn't have a sentimental attachment included with them. I chose similar indicators because they work, and work reliably. I've owned mine for over 30 years. The two B&S indicators I own are almost a carbon copy of the Interapid. Both have the larger dial and read directly in half thou increments. They repeat very well, though when you get down to a tenth, an electronic indicator seems to have the edge.

Considering the price you "paid" to get the Interapid, you sure did well. You couldn't have purchased it new for the price of the repair. I've never used one, but I have the utmost respect for them. When I was buying, the B&S was what was available. I worked with guys that owned the Interapid and liked them. I can't help but think they are a knock off of the B&S, which is not made by them, but by the Swiss, and sold under their name. They really are a fine indicator.

Regards the Starrett Last Word, the one place all the grinders used one was in taking taper out on grinders. They seem to work very well for offsetting the tables, or setting the dressing attachment on a centerless grinder. Mine got used almost daily, just not for critical work. I hope Starrett forgives me for bad mouthing their piece of junk! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grin.gif"%20alt="[/img]

Harold

[Ramsey]

Wanted to thank everyone for the info. I got brave and jumped right in the little indicator with both arms. I must have done something right because the thing is now working as good as new ( as arugmental as that may be! LOL)



Thanks again,
Ramsey

[Larry Backer]

Has anyone heard of a Compac, Geneve- Model #244. I bought one in a thrift shop for $35.00. It came in a babyblue plastic box. Swiss Made. I could not find it in any of my catalouges. So I don't know if I got a deal or not.
Larry,

[Harold_V]

I'm not familiar with it, but I lean towards thinking you probably did just fine. The Swiss make outstanding indicators, at least the ones I've seen are. B&S thought enough of them to sell them under their own name.

Can you post a picture of your indicator?

Harold

[:arry Backer]

Harold,
I don't have a digital camera yet, My son is coming over for dinner tomorrow night and I will ask him to bring his. Even after I get it in the computer then I have to figure out how to post It. It is also missing the in. anvil, the one that came with it measures .314, I guess that is metric.
Larry,
Ontario, Calif

[Harold_V]

Hey Larry,

I think a pic is a good idea. At this point I am assuming you and I are talking about a dial indicator of one type or another, but I'm curious which part you make reference to as an anvil. I'll keep watch for your post and picture, which should set me straight.

Posting a pic is pretty easy, Larry, especially if you don't intend for it to display automatically. That takes a little more effort, including editing your original post.

Keep in mind that in order to post a pic it must be under 100kb, but my experiences thus far indicate that your entire post, including the pic, must be no greater than 100 kb, so make sure yours is somewhere under 95kb to insure success.

Best regards,

Harold