PB Blaster is Snake Oil
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
Hi There,
The Coke trick sounds like the tip I've
heard using molasses for rust removal.
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
The Coke trick sounds like the tip I've
heard using molasses for rust removal.
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
- neanderman
- Posts: 896
- Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:15 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
"I love the smell of napalm in the morning..." Oh, wait, sorry.
Ed
LeBlond Dual Drive, 15x30
US-Burke Millrite MVI
Atlas 618
Files, snips and cold chisels
Proud denizen of the former "Machine Tool Capitol of the World"
LeBlond Dual Drive, 15x30
US-Burke Millrite MVI
Atlas 618
Files, snips and cold chisels
Proud denizen of the former "Machine Tool Capitol of the World"
-
- Posts: 276
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:34 pm
- Location: B.C.
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
We referred to penetrating fluid as skunk pi**. I never really believed any of the brands worked that well. What did work was a fine wheel cup on a angle grinder. If you go at the bolt until you see that line between the nut and the threads, it will come off. Otherwise it's hot wrench time, either heating or blowing it off.
Fait on their 124s to lower unsprung weight used aluminum brake disc calipers. Fine enough, except their bleed screws were steel. Unless you keep them free, they seized.In order to reuse the calipers after brake jobs, you could the calipers in pail of kerosene for a couple of days.
Fait on their 124s to lower unsprung weight used aluminum brake disc calipers. Fine enough, except their bleed screws were steel. Unless you keep them free, they seized.In order to reuse the calipers after brake jobs, you could the calipers in pail of kerosene for a couple of days.
A man of foolish pursuits, '91 BusyBee DF1224g lathe,'01 Advance RF-45 mill/drill,'68 Delta Toolmaker surface grinder,Miller250 mig,'83 8" Baldor grinder, plus sawdustmakers
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
I've found the best way to loosen nuts and bolts is to use Never-Seize liberally way before the necessity of using snake oil. Especially on brake bleeder screws and lawn mower blades.
--earlgo
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
earlgo—
Does Never-Seize work on rusted fasteners?
—Bill
Does Never-Seize work on rusted fasteners?
—Bill
You are what you write.
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
If you are thinking of using it to FREE fasteners, no - it's a paste and would never even get in.
Applied to fasteners before assembly, particularly rust-prone ones like exhaust system bolts, and they will be MUCH easier to remove.
Steve
- seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
Steve M—
Thanks for clearing that up for me.
—Bill
Thanks for clearing that up for me.
—Bill
You are what you write.
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
Hi There,
Living near salt water, I been using anti-seize on fasteners for
a long time. The most problematic are exhaust fittings and I've
lately switched to a high temp anti-seize (infused with Nickel).
It is supposed to be good to 2600°F and so far has worked on
the exhaust manifold stud/nuts on my son's Z28 Camaro.
For already rusted and frozen nut and bolts, I like Kroil. It has
provided the best performance of all penetrating oils I have used
so far. Sometimes it takes a couple days to get all the way in
there but given time, it will get in there.
I have read about the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone and have tried
it once on some bolts where I could immerse the parts in a small
can of the stuff and the results were encouraging. I am leery of
using this mixture anywhere it could contact painted surfaces.
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
Living near salt water, I been using anti-seize on fasteners for
a long time. The most problematic are exhaust fittings and I've
lately switched to a high temp anti-seize (infused with Nickel).
It is supposed to be good to 2600°F and so far has worked on
the exhaust manifold stud/nuts on my son's Z28 Camaro.
For already rusted and frozen nut and bolts, I like Kroil. It has
provided the best performance of all penetrating oils I have used
so far. Sometimes it takes a couple days to get all the way in
there but given time, it will get in there.
I have read about the 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone and have tried
it once on some bolts where I could immerse the parts in a small
can of the stuff and the results were encouraging. I am leery of
using this mixture anywhere it could contact painted surfaces.
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
For years I used the same products that Webb specified.
Good stuff. Especially the Kroil.
~RN
Good stuff. Especially the Kroil.
~RN
- 737mechanic
- Posts: 373
- Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:27 pm
- Location: Dallas
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
I have never really had luck with any so called penetrating oils when removing rusted hardware. The best luck I have ever had was heat and once broken loose any kind of thin oil that will help with lubrication when turning the hardware.
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
I merely dipped into your site. Creditable! ( I don't know why people say incredible when it already happened). This heat disposition is very important and probably a secret. I know that you weren't using torches. Was it that the oxidation presented the very area of higher voltage at different frequencies? That is neat stuff and there is much more than that. Gosh I blew my mind thinking about how this could be done between fasteners and the base with digital readouts showing ... oh man. Back to heat and PB
Re: PB Blaster is Snake Oil
My opinion?737mechanic wrote: ↑Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:21 am I have never really had luck with any so called penetrating oils when removing rusted hardware. The best luck I have ever had was heat and once broken loose any kind of thin oil that will help with lubrication when turning the hardware.
You've come down with mental health.
It's absurd to assume oil will, in any way, break down rusted connections. Chemically it just isn't so! However, heat does, and oil, as you said, lubricates the assembly so it turns with less effort and, hopefully, prevents galling while dismantling.
I've (successfully) dismantled a lot of rusted connectors. Nothing like heat as a persuader. Heat, or a strong solvent (such as phosphoric acid).
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.