This looks like it would be a simple matter of taking off the rectangular plate and keep going BUT I tried that and though it WILL all a certain amount of acess it does not totally come loose because of the "plunger rack anti rotation pin" (yes I am making up terms)
I you look at the lower right you can see the torsion spring. I believe it is THAT spring which is "weak in the bean" . I think the purpose of that spring is to "preload" the gears and such to keep all the backlash OUT of the equation. Currently it has a certain amount of "delay" in reading when changing directions. I want to "go deeper" but I also don't want ot break it.
The two middle screws can be loosened - they (from what I can tell) allow you to adjust the "rack to pinion" slop which will reduce the "delay" but not elininate it. So THAT'S why I think it the torsion spring.
Dial Indicator Repair - Any TIPS??
Re: Dial Indicator Repair - Any TIPS??
FWIW, don't have any experience with Federals, but kind of self taught by fixing cheap chinese indicators(well, it's broke anyway so what can I hurt). Once I gained some confidence (actually made them work for awhile longer), I wasn't scared of Starrett ebay deals and have picked up and dabbled with some much nicer indicators that I would have been scared to open previously. Sounds like Jacin's is different from what I've seen, wish I could help, but ripping apart a junker and seeing what makes it tick sure helped me. Screws are tiny on all of them though...
Rob
Rob
[b] Some days are diamonds....[/b]
Re: Dial Indicator Repair - Any TIPS??
A few ideas to check out.
If you think it is the clock spring, it's primary purpose is to prevent backlash in the gear train. It does add to the extension spring some.
If there is enough room to release the pinion from the rack and then rotate the pinion in the direction to add more tension to the clock spring before re-engaging the pinion to the rack it should take care of that concern.
If you feel any drag on the rods alignment in the bushings as it slides full travel , the assembly will still need removed to straighten the rod.
The cheap indicators have an anti-rotation device to the rack that can be a guide or slot that the guide pin rides in. The guide iteslf should come loose somehow. Possibly from the front. Behind the face. Just speculation of course.
It had to go together, so it's gotta come apart and be adjustable.
Think RACE CAR and it will all fall into perspective for you! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grin.gif"%20alt="[/img]
It may also be fact that the dial face could need removed for everything to come out the front or be fastened from the front. That could get more involved than you really want. I could tell you how I take the bezels and needles off. It is not for the faint of heart. If the above takes care of the problem as you planned, you are done.
DC
If you think it is the clock spring, it's primary purpose is to prevent backlash in the gear train. It does add to the extension spring some.
If there is enough room to release the pinion from the rack and then rotate the pinion in the direction to add more tension to the clock spring before re-engaging the pinion to the rack it should take care of that concern.
If you feel any drag on the rods alignment in the bushings as it slides full travel , the assembly will still need removed to straighten the rod.
The cheap indicators have an anti-rotation device to the rack that can be a guide or slot that the guide pin rides in. The guide iteslf should come loose somehow. Possibly from the front. Behind the face. Just speculation of course.
It had to go together, so it's gotta come apart and be adjustable.
Think RACE CAR and it will all fall into perspective for you! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grin.gif"%20alt="[/img]
It may also be fact that the dial face could need removed for everything to come out the front or be fastened from the front. That could get more involved than you really want. I could tell you how I take the bezels and needles off. It is not for the faint of heart. If the above takes care of the problem as you planned, you are done.
DC
Re: Dial Indicator Repair - Any TIPS??
Jacin: Take a look at this site. longislandindicator.com
Ureaka!!!!
Doug. It suddenly hit me!!!! Your advice was on the money. I kept thinking I had to get to the clock spring to "wind" it. Loosening up the rack gear was THE EASY way. Duh!!!
Sometimes the answers are right in front of our faces!
Other times we just need a different perspective.
Thanks for your response - it worked like a charm!!!!
Sometimes the answers are right in front of our faces!
Other times we just need a different perspective.
Thanks for your response - it worked like a charm!!!!
Supercalirealistic!
Nothing like snuffing a problem with a good ending! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grin.gif"%20alt="[/img]
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sandman2234
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2003 3:47 pm
- Location: Jacksonville, Fl
You guys are good...
Maybe I ought to go dig out that box of 3" starrets that we used to chuck into the trash when they got full of grit from the sand we used around them. Just tell the boss Lady and she'd go get a new pair out for us to mess up. Should have kept all of them, but had no clue I would ever use one at home. Duhhhhh, another stupid move on my part.
BP 2j vs, SB lathe, W& S #4 Turret lathe, Maho 600P
Re: You guys are good...
I have a 2" Mitutoyo at work that is not worth much anymore. While testing a CNC lathe for repeatability in the X axis, I had left it set up for a more urgent calling away to resolve another problem.
In the mean time someone needed the lathe for a simple project, so I said go for it. Not 20 minutes later He brought me the indicator with a Z bend in the plunger rod. With CNC's there is no tactile feedback telling the operator something is in the way.
Based on prior experience I figured I could handle the repairs. The one miscalculation is that when an indicator gets compressed between 2 solid objects, the rack is no longer the same length.
Consequently, I now have a 2" indicator that is calibrated to 1.85 full travel.
It still reads 2", so I think I'm getting more than I bargained for !!! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/wink.gif"%20alt="[/img]!
2" + the .150 it was short make it a 2.15 travel indicator. Rare ain't it!
Makes ya want one like it? Just repeat the above procedure to create your own! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/laugh.gif"%20alt="[/img]
DC
In the mean time someone needed the lathe for a simple project, so I said go for it. Not 20 minutes later He brought me the indicator with a Z bend in the plunger rod. With CNC's there is no tactile feedback telling the operator something is in the way.
Based on prior experience I figured I could handle the repairs. The one miscalculation is that when an indicator gets compressed between 2 solid objects, the rack is no longer the same length.
Consequently, I now have a 2" indicator that is calibrated to 1.85 full travel.
It still reads 2", so I think I'm getting more than I bargained for !!! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/wink.gif"%20alt="[/img]!
2" + the .150 it was short make it a 2.15 travel indicator. Rare ain't it!
Makes ya want one like it? Just repeat the above procedure to create your own! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/laugh.gif"%20alt="[/img]
DC
Re: Dial Indicator Repaired
Well, my Lufkin came back from Long Island INdicator Repair all fixed. This little gem, which I think is about 25 years old, is like new again. Not cheap to repair, but it is worth having something as nice as this.