How do you set-up a large shaft (about 3 to 5 inches in diameter and 10 to 18
inches long) with a rough surface to use with a steady-rest? The shaft will
be turned between centers and then one end would be put in a four-jaw chuck
and the other end supported by the steady-rest, so that the end could be
faced to length and then some other machining operations could be performed
on the end of the shaft. But, before you can turn the shaft between centers,
the end of the shaft must be supported by a steady-rest so that you can
center drill it. but before you can use a steady-rest, you need a machined
surface where you are going to place the steady-rest. Furthermore, how do you
indicate in the rough surfaced shaft before you center drill it? I am
confused. If you decide to use a cathead do you indicate the part or the
outer surface of the cathead itself to make sure the shaft is set-up
correctly in the lathe. Does anyone out there know what I should do?
Shafts and Steady Rests
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Andypullen
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Thu May 22, 2003 8:17 am
- Location: Bel Air, MD
Re: Shafts and Steady Rests
Hi Barry,
How big is your lathe? 18" long can be dangerous. 10" isn't so bad. A small lathe (less than 12") would be difficult to do it in, but it can be done.
I've been lucky, I guess. I've done what you're asking. It was done in a Monarch lathe that swung about 18". I centered the shaft in th 4 jaw chuck as close as I could get it. And "bumped" the other end in as close as I could get it with a hunk of lead or a deadblow hammer. I then centerdrilled the end taking little bites with the centerdrill. NOT TOO fast to keep the part from whipping. (The chuck was very tight on the part and its jaws were holding about 1 3/4" of material.) Then, I put in a center and would skim turn the od where the steady needed to go (2 places). After that, I would face the part to length in the steady rest and re-center.
Good luck and I say again; don't try to go too fast when drilling the first hole.
Andy Pullen
How big is your lathe? 18" long can be dangerous. 10" isn't so bad. A small lathe (less than 12") would be difficult to do it in, but it can be done.
I've been lucky, I guess. I've done what you're asking. It was done in a Monarch lathe that swung about 18". I centered the shaft in th 4 jaw chuck as close as I could get it. And "bumped" the other end in as close as I could get it with a hunk of lead or a deadblow hammer. I then centerdrilled the end taking little bites with the centerdrill. NOT TOO fast to keep the part from whipping. (The chuck was very tight on the part and its jaws were holding about 1 3/4" of material.) Then, I put in a center and would skim turn the od where the steady needed to go (2 places). After that, I would face the part to length in the steady rest and re-center.
Good luck and I say again; don't try to go too fast when drilling the first hole.
Andy Pullen
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
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Joe H
Re: Shafts and Steady Rests
Barry,
Mark the center on each end the old fashioned way with the combination square center finder and center punch. Use a drill press to center drill each end. Put in lathe between centers. Turn area for steady rest and end for 4 jaw true. Then set in 4 jaw & steady.
Mark the center on each end the old fashioned way with the combination square center finder and center punch. Use a drill press to center drill each end. Put in lathe between centers. Turn area for steady rest and end for 4 jaw true. Then set in 4 jaw & steady.
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ramjet
Re: Shafts and Steady Rests
anonymous,
I would set the steady to the right of your carriage first.
Mark shaft end with center gauge.
Load the shaft in the chuck and lay the shaft in the rest.
Adjust steady rest to align your center mark to the dead center/tailstock.
Align the four jaw chuck end of the shaft.
Re-check, re-align the tailstock end/ chuck as required.
Put a little grease on the pads.
I put a little centerdrilled block or plate between the tailstock center and job to prevent the shaft from walking out of the chuck.
If your rest is not in line with the spindle, the shaft WILL walk out of the chuck and give you a shaft impression on your head.
Machine at low speed, skim a spot at the CHUCK end.
You may be able to drill a rough center hole at this time.
You can carefully loosen, and move the steady rest to the chuck end and gently set the rest to your newly machined spot.
To do this move, you may have to place a little jack to hold the shafts weight.
Do not forget to remove the jack.
Now remove the shaft, slide the steady out, reset the shaft end for end, and set the shaft on your now preset steady rest and spot.
You now have a round spot, and preset steady to work with.
Center drill and machine as required.
Before you remove your shaft, be sure you turn a spot at the chuck end to do the other end.
ram
I would set the steady to the right of your carriage first.
Mark shaft end with center gauge.
Load the shaft in the chuck and lay the shaft in the rest.
Adjust steady rest to align your center mark to the dead center/tailstock.
Align the four jaw chuck end of the shaft.
Re-check, re-align the tailstock end/ chuck as required.
Put a little grease on the pads.
I put a little centerdrilled block or plate between the tailstock center and job to prevent the shaft from walking out of the chuck.
If your rest is not in line with the spindle, the shaft WILL walk out of the chuck and give you a shaft impression on your head.
Machine at low speed, skim a spot at the CHUCK end.
You may be able to drill a rough center hole at this time.
You can carefully loosen, and move the steady rest to the chuck end and gently set the rest to your newly machined spot.
To do this move, you may have to place a little jack to hold the shafts weight.
Do not forget to remove the jack.
Now remove the shaft, slide the steady out, reset the shaft end for end, and set the shaft on your now preset steady rest and spot.
You now have a round spot, and preset steady to work with.
Center drill and machine as required.
Before you remove your shaft, be sure you turn a spot at the chuck end to do the other end.
ram
Re: Shafts and Steady Rests
I don't know about that size of pipe diameter but they do make bull-nose centers for use with pipe and tubing. Just something to consider, but I think that would be my first choice for supporting pipe or tubing.
-Art K
-Art K
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CYoung
- Posts: 84
- Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2003 12:15 pm
- Location: Port Arthur, TX (SE Texas, gulf coast, next Louisana/TX boarder)
Re: Shafts and Steady Rests
2 more penny's worth. Didn't have anyone to show me a simplier way, so learned on my on. Will follow, to see a possible better way.
Assuming that you have a lathe that will handle this size shaft.
Blue up both ends, determine approximate center with centering head and rule.
Also assuming that you have a suitable size cathead. If you're going to turn the entire shaft and don't want it marked with the steady jaws.
Insert shaft in chuck.
Zero the shaft right in front of the chuck.
If you're using a cathead, slip cathead (CH) on shaft and slide up against the chuck, zero cathead by adjusting it's screws until it is zero.
Place center rest on lathe, slide it down to the CH, and set steady rest to CH.
Loosen stead rest top jaw, unhinge and slide down to where you want the rest to be. Next, loosen one screw of the cathead (I've used a short piece of angle iron to scribe a straigh line on the shaft corresponding with the screw to be loosened) slide CH down to steady, tighten the loosened screw on the scribed line. Close steady rest and snug the top jaw to CH.
Using a homemade bar with indicator, attached to my tool post, and reaching thru the steady rest, I then check the shaft top and side (longitutal) for zero from chuck to steady.
Using the center drill to lightly mark (shaft not turning, just bump the work piece) it's location on the end, if it looks good, I go with it.
Carl
Assuming that you have a lathe that will handle this size shaft.
Blue up both ends, determine approximate center with centering head and rule.
Also assuming that you have a suitable size cathead. If you're going to turn the entire shaft and don't want it marked with the steady jaws.
Insert shaft in chuck.
Zero the shaft right in front of the chuck.
If you're using a cathead, slip cathead (CH) on shaft and slide up against the chuck, zero cathead by adjusting it's screws until it is zero.
Place center rest on lathe, slide it down to the CH, and set steady rest to CH.
Loosen stead rest top jaw, unhinge and slide down to where you want the rest to be. Next, loosen one screw of the cathead (I've used a short piece of angle iron to scribe a straigh line on the shaft corresponding with the screw to be loosened) slide CH down to steady, tighten the loosened screw on the scribed line. Close steady rest and snug the top jaw to CH.
Using a homemade bar with indicator, attached to my tool post, and reaching thru the steady rest, I then check the shaft top and side (longitutal) for zero from chuck to steady.
Using the center drill to lightly mark (shaft not turning, just bump the work piece) it's location on the end, if it looks good, I go with it.
Carl