Milling identical pieces

rbuzaleski · Post by **rbuzaleski** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 4:54 pm

Say I want to make 2-4 of the same piece, like a step-block for use in clamping down work. I'll be using a small mill. Since I don't own a bandsaw, I'm thinking of roughing out the 4 triangles, then drilling a hole through them all and bolting them together so I can finish them as one "piece." Is this feasible?

I ask because I don't have or have access to a bandsaw at this time, so I can't machine a block and then slice them off, which strikes me as a better way to do it. I _might_ have access to an abrasive-wheel chop saw. Can a saw like that cut a straight enough line to use for this kind of "slicing?" I know it'll waste lots of metal for the cut, but assuming I allow for that, is it even something to consider?

While we're on the subject, how would you guys with experience do it? Would you just be good enough to turn them out one at a time and have them come out identical? Would you machine a "block" of them and slice off what you needed? Would you do something I haven't mentioned here that might be a more "right" way to do it?

(Sorry for all the newb questions; I do intend to share any machining knowledge I gain if I ever gain any.)

MikeC · Post by **MikeC** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:08 pm

Since nobody else has chimed in, I think I'd make a block and slice them off... if I had a block big enough. I don't see any problem with your idea of bolting a bunch of triangles together, though. If you can get them in the vise and it works, have at at!

J Tiers · Post by **J Tiers** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:31 pm

One block....... then slice.

If you can get a bunch of bolted triangles to stay put and alined, good on ya...... they won't be the same, and so may not all sit right, nor clamp right in a vise etc.

Sawing the block and cleaning up the sides is relatively easy, and they really WILL be pretty much the same....... although they really don't have to be identical for clamp blocks......

Now parallels would be different. Those need to be right on the same.

J Tiers · Post by **J Tiers** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:33 pm

BTW, I am sure you know this, but, you need a bandsaw...... or a power hacksaw.

I'd try to get an older one, my old Atlas 4" with hydraulic feed is way better than the HF specials..... although the stand is nothing special.

rbuzaleski · Post by **rbuzaleski** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:11 am

Yeah, I think a usable saw is on my short list, before I even get a lathe, which is also on the sort list. Amazing how I never felt I needed any of these tools before, but now that I have one, I keep needing the others.

Anyone know if this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g8692

Is pretty much the equivalent of an HF tool, or if it's any good? Not a lot in the budget right now.

BadDog · Post by **BadDog** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:49 am

Unless you build a stand/guide for that, getting anything resembling a straight AND square cut will be a major problem. I would suggest getting a 4x6 vert/horiz bandsaw from HF. They make a reasonable version for less than $200, and they work well enough if you avoid the one with the free floating stamped guide slides. I bought one long ago for something like $149 on sale and it’s been a great asset to my shop even before I bought my first lathe. Sometimes people report having to fool with them a bit to get them to cut true, but most seem to do fairly well with the addition of only a good blade (they come with garbage blades). I run Lynox bi-metal multi-pitch blades on mine and it does a very nice job and cuts well within a degree of square on vertical (could be closer if I care, I don’t...) and as close as I care to get it on the horizontal. I’ve done several jobs like you describe and just face off on the lathe, or fly cut it square, depending on what is required. You’re never going to get a bandsaw cut square and straight enough to not need finish milling (unless the part simply doesn’t require accuracy) so why worry over the saw or spend a lot of money. I truely would not be without mine...

BadDog · Post by **BadDog** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:00 am

There are several, so I went ahead and found the ones I would want...

Here is the one I think I might buy if I needed to replace mine. I think I like the blade guide better, but never used one. Mine is VERY similar, but with surface mounted guides and painted green. Supposedly came with a 1hp motor, but apparently the Chinese have VERY pitiful horses since my replacement 1/2 hp UL rated motor is not only stronger, but larger AND heavier. Oh, and the motor was replaced because I walked off "just for a moment to get a glass of water" while making a long cut. Apparently it bound up and the blade didn't slip or kick off. When I came back, the smoke was escaping and I had to find another motor. Very inexpensive and common frame, bolted right up and I’m almost glad the old one burned out. The new motor is so much smoother and quieter, but like that matters on a band saw...

Here is a much nicer one, but at more money. It has more capacity and some extra goodies that frankly I don't miss all that much. Hydro down feed being the biggest, and coolant would sometimes be nice, but truly, I would never see the return on the cost for my use. And that includes cutting quite a bit of tube for feeding my bender to build cages, bumpers, winch mounts, and all sorts of stuff. Likewise, there is another band saw I didn’t see listed that has a pivoting head for miter cuts rather than turning the vise. Again, to me, just more money for very little return.

I suggest getting the little 4x6 when it’s on sale, which is most of the time...
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torker · Post by **torker** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:42 pm

I worked at a small trailer mfg plant once. All we had for a saw was the cheap lil' 4X6. I hated that thing for cutting the many angles we had to deal with.
I saw one of these and bought it...I love the swivelling head and use it a lot. It only takes seconds to swing it and the angles are easy to read as the "protractor" is huge. I added a coolant system and also use good bimetal blades. Prolly the single best purchase I've made for my shop. It cost about $100 more than the regular saw but is worth every penny. The vise is outstanding for a cheap saw and the stand is really tough.
http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture1 ... ITEM=B1929
Russ

BadDog · Post by **BadDog** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:53 am

Yep, that's the one HF used to sell, but I couldn't find it on their site when I looked this time.

Lew Hartswick · Post by **Lew Hartswick** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:36 pm

Two comments. The series of triangular peices if they are pined together
with two pins (spring type) and machined as a unit will be so close to
identical as to require sophisticated measuring to see the difference.
Second. I just saw a whole lot of , from 1/4 " to 1 " slices cut off of 136#
railroad rail with a 16" abrasive cut off "saw" that to get any truer would
require surface grinding. ( which I did for a few paper weights) :-) So if
the block ( if made in one peice ) is held and the saw fixtured suitably that
would work also.
...lew...