Atlas 912 band saw

[Diesel II]

I just picked this saw up on craigslist today for $70.00. No motor but I have a ½ hp with a gear reducer and sheave on it should be perfect for this. Does anyone the blade length and width for this model saw?

Thanks

[Fender]

It looks kinda like my Craftsman saw, which uses an 80" blade. Not sure though. Easy enough to remove the blade and measure it.

[spro]

1st off, congrats. These are not easy to find. That ci mainframe really makes a difference. Doesn't it just IRK You that it is made in USA. What were they thinking anyway
You'll be getting a manual soon. That saw was 1/2" cap blade. It would like 3/8 or less. You need to look at the condition of the guides and stantions and the rigidity. This can vary widly. See nobody knows if a wheel was replaced or it was lined with a thick tire. if the adj is around the middle then that blade is okay. If it is way off then it's only about what you measure + or hey you know all this .

[steamin10]

I have several saws and can never remember the blade length or thickness.

So I use a marker and write all that information on the inside of the guard cover. It saves come head scratchin' for me.

[spro]

You are so right. Every cover of mine has it written. I bear the scars of not doing that before. There are still 98 1/2, 105, 64 1/4". These #s serve no purpose to remember, especially when they get foggy. Then a miss is a bad as a mile.
Something which hasn't been mentioned is that I tend to think of the blade at the larger adjustment. That way when it breaks there is enough left for rewelds.

[richtes]

Did you look on www.owwm.com for the manual? I got one of these for $20 a few years ago and after replacing the bearings it was a nice saw (don't think the originals were sealed). Didn't think much of the guides.

Rich

[Diesel II]

Saw is now up and running.
Fabricated a new table with hindge motor mount, Changed rotation on an old motor that I had with a gear reduction on it.

[randyc]

...Something which hasn't been mentioned is that I tend to think of the blade at the larger adjustment. That way when it breaks there is enough left for rewelds.

Good idea - I never thought of that when I made a riser block for my 14 inch woodworking bandsaw (the machine was previously limited to about 5-3/4 inches in re-saw height). Woodworking blades don't break often but still, I'd have dimensioned the riser block so that a standard blade would fit at 80% of the tension adjustment, leaving an inch or two for scarfing and silver-soldering a broken blade.

Dang, even old dogs learn a new trick once in a while.

Thanks Spro,
Randy C

[Steve_in_Mich]

Diesel II, what was the length of the blade that came with the saw?

Perhaps these will help:

http://www.toolcenter.com/mm5/merchant. ... en=LENOXBT

http://www.toolcenter.com/BBLADEFAQ.html

[Diesel II]

Diesel II, what was the length of the blade that came with the saw?

Perhaps these will help:

It is 80" With my gear reducer I calculate the blade speed to be about 220 FPM. I think I can live with that so I wont need to change ratios on my pullies.

[chucketn]

I have the exact same saw. Does anyone know of a good source for replacement guides for this saw?