Worn pin holes in drill chuck

[David WC]

Has anyone ever tried to refurbish a worn out drill chuck? Mine is a 5/8 cap. on an Tiwanese drill press that I bought about 30 years ago. The chuck still works as far as gripping the bit goes, but the pin holes that support the chuck key are worn oblong and I am tired of the key rolling out of mesh and my knuckle getting trimmed in the process. I'm thinking about boring the holes and bushing them, or boring the holes and bushing the key's pin. Should I persue this or just give it up and buy a new chuck? Any help/advice will be appreciated.

[Lew Hartswick]

not sure of a repair but it sounds like you aren't holding the key in the hole adequately when tightening the chuck to
wear the hole like that. Joke son: Buy an Albrecht.
...lew...

[SteveM]

I'm usually the cheapskate that fixes things until they can't be fixed no more.

Just sold my car to the junkyard because they gave me more than double what the dealer was going to give me.

I think my wife was purposely breaking the vacuum so that she'd get a new one, but I kept it going.

You could spend 2 hours of your time refurbishing that one, or pick up an excellent used Jacob or Albrecht chuck on ebay for less than $50.

I have two Albrecht's and some 1/2" and 5/8" Jacobs chucks and the most I spent was $60. Every one is a keeper.

Just be sure that you get the correct taper or arbor to go on your drill press.

Steve

[stevec]

Dave, I've done the exact repairs that you outlined. I opened up the holes in the chuck and bushed the key. It worked fine until I had pummeled the thin wall bush on the key. Good point is when the key's pin is soft the chuck doesn't get elongated. Bad point is/, I now have to fit a new bush on the key. I'm thinking of drilling out the pin in the key and inserting a new one that's a bit harder than the little bush I made.

[refinery mike]

I have refurbished drill chucks. Do you know how to take it apart. The part that spins needs to be supported in an arbor press and then push nose of the chuck out the back. always went easy for me anyway. mostly jacobs chucks. the part of the chuck that is egged out on your chuck is not hardened steel it should machine easily. by the way the scroll in the chuck will come out broken in half. that is the way they are made, broken. You didnt do anything wrong. just put them together and press them back in. thats the way it worked for me anyway.

[swatson144]

I'm usually the cheapskate that fixes things until they can't be fixed no more.

Just sold my car to the junkyard because they gave me more than double what the dealer was going to give me.

I think my wife was purposely breaking the vacuum so that she'd get a new one, but I kept it going.

You could spend 2 hours of your time refurbishing that one, or pick up an excellent used Jacob or Albrecht chuck on ebay for less than $50.

I have two Albrecht's and some 1/2" and 5/8" Jacobs chucks and the most I spent was $60. Every one is a keeper.

Just be sure that you get the correct taper or arbor to go on your drill press.

Steve

I second all this. I'll also add, Life is too short for using cheap chucks. Once you use an albrecht, or Jacobs super chuck, you'll see the light. Keep an eye on ebay I just bought an 18N 3/4" from there for 35$ delivered. There are great deals to be found. 14N 1/2" would serve you fine if you don't really require 5/8" They are through hardened and last. I've used my 14N in a BIG lathe drilling 1/2 cold rolled plate with a 1 1/2" silver Deming and the bit never slipped once.

Yep my wife ain't so good a breaking a vacuum either. I expect one of these days soon it will accidentally get backed over with the car.

Steve

[David WC]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I do have an albrecht that I use in a Bridgeport, and a Super chuck for the lathe. I don't know what kind of taper this drill press chuck has and rather not take it off the spindle to find out. However that may be the only choice other than fixing the holes. Glad to hear someone has done that. I might give it a whirl as a temp fix, and since it will have to be off to do it I'll be able to see what kind of taper a new chuck will need.

[thirtycal]

I bought a new chuck at grizzly for $4 it was only a half inch but I was working in Springfield and had some time to kill. Near the front door they have clearance tables. I didn't need the chuck but could pass up buying one for $4.

One other option would be to try and find a key with a larger pin and just drill out the pin holes. But then you run into the problem of how to drill a hole in your only chuck. Maybe you can find a drill bit with a flex shaft.

[flutedchamber]

I agree about the Jacobs chucks..at least the older units. The new Jacobs chucks are now made in CHINA and the quality is nowhere near as good. Typical Chinese lack of quality.

If the chuck has the numbers and name acid etched on it the chuck is made in China. This was told to me when I called Jacobs to see if Enco sold me a copy of a Jacobs chuck. IIRC repair kits for these chucks will be different.

[SteveM]

If it's a Jacobs, you can get information on how to service it at:
http://www.jacobschuck.com/

The instructions may also be useful for other brands of keyed chucks.

Steve

[stevec]

David, I've been thinking about your dilema, and, it looks like you're going to have to remove the chuck no matter what solution you elect.
I have an asian DP about the same vintage and I have a large capacity chuck in it too (5/8 or 3/4). I actually have a "MT 1 to Jacobs taper" arbour on the chuck.
Looks a bit spindly for the chuck size.
If you extend the quill you should see the slot revealing the spindle. Lift the table to a couple of inches from the chuck.
Turn the chuck by hand til you see the tang of the arbour.
Then insert your drift, give it a whack with a hammer and the chuck & it's arbour should drop to the table.
Sorry if this sounds a bit "first grade" but I wanted to overcome your reservations about removing the chuck & arbour.

[David WC]

I bought a new chuck at grizzly for $4 it was only a half inch but I was working in Springfield and had some time to kill. Near the front door they have clearance tables. I didn't need the chuck but could pass up buying one for $4.

One other option would be to try and find a key with a larger pin and just drill out the pin holes. But then you run into the problem of how to drill a hole in your only chuck. Maybe you can find a drill bit with a flex shaft.

Thirtycal, Who could pass on a bargain tike that? Your idea reminded me of a poster we had on the shop wall about 30 myears ago. It read: We've been doing so much with so little for so long, we are now qualified to do the impossible with nothing at all.

SteveM, Thanks for the info. It's not a Jacobs, but good data to have on hand.

Stevec, Not to worry about "first grade". While my quill does not have a slot for a drift, Your directions would be a benefit to someone who has never had the pleasure of removing a tapered arbor from a quill. Unfortunately, the problem with this DP is that that there are no visable clues as to how the chuck is mounted. For all I know it could be screwed onto a threaded arbor, rather than held by a tapered stub. I will attempt to drive a wedge between the quill bottom and the chuck body and see what happens. I just dont want to damage the quill bearings by pounding on the wedge, and then find out that the chuck is threaded on.