Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.
Rolky wrote:
Conlusions:
1) The ripples in the final product are probably a result of the uneveness of the template. Construction grade softwood is not the stuff to use here. Acrylic would be better. The sanding on the oscillating spindle sander was freehand.
2) There is definitely potential here to save a lot of work.
Rolky, I have used wood working tools on aluminium many times. You can get a good finish with a spindle sander if you rub some wax into it. I run the sander and press a candle into it. I also do this to angle grinder wheels when grinding aluminium.
Paul.
Speak with the circus owner instead of arguing with the monkeys.
Forget white boards, I much prefer a "clear board". Just use any handy window. Or get a piece of spare glass (picture glass from upgraded windows?) and mount of a white wall. Best part is you use any marker you darn well please, and cleanup is always easy/quick using common solvents with no ghosting.
I have used the spindle sander on aluminum. It did a nice job on the lever. The aluminum didn't clog the sanding sleeve, but it did wear it away. I'm using the coarse garnet sleeves that came with the machine. What type of abrasive and coarseness are you using?
wlw-19958 wrote:South Bend Lathe, before
they sold their parts to Leblond Lathe, were asking $750 for
a set of half-nuts. After Leblond got control, the price
dropped to $250 but soon raised to $500. Since Grizzly bought
SBL, I haven't a clue (their on-line parts look-up doesn't seem
to recognize SBL part numbers). The price for a pair of half-nuts
from Clausing for the 5900 (called a split-nut in Clausing parlance)
is $126.80 (just checked yesterday).
I bought a new half-nut for my Chinese lathe. It was in stock and $20. Just sayin'.
Hi, everyone,
I've routed hinge mortice's in aluminum store front glazing metal. It works well. The forces involved are much greater than when routing wood so be very sure that the work and template are securely clamped. It's also very loud. Loud enough to damage your hearing quickly so wear earplugs. And worst of all, it makes a cloud of tiny, HOT chips. They will get into everything. Your clothes, your shoes, your ears and your eyes. Cover and protect yourself, especially your eyes. I have heard that in the WWII era the airplane makers cut the odd shaped prices for outer skins from 3'' thick stacks of aluminum sheets with great big routers that turned about 900 RPM. I think I'm glad I missed the opportunity to do that job.
I don't want too sound like a mother hen But: Please be careful with this trick. Aluminum is not just shinny wood. Don't assume that because a technique works in wood that it will work in aluminum.
jstinem wrote:And worst of all, it makes a cloud of tiny, HOT chips.
Hot enough to burn into bare skin. I am another glazier who has done this trick on site. Had to cut a few chips out of my arm and neck because of it. Be really careful!!
I have used the spindle sander on aluminum. It did a nice job on the lever. The aluminum didn't clog the sanding sleeve, but it did wear it away. I'm using the coarse garnet sleeves that came with the machine. What type of abrasive and coarseness are you using?
Eric
I use all garnet and aluminous oxide mostly. I have found the clogging to be more of an issue when trying to hog aluminium, especially with the belt grinder or angle grinder. In these cases the wax in the grinding disk or on the belt works very well. I have found the trick is to not grind on any one spot too long as the heat tends to wreck the belts too (maybe it softens the glue??)
Paul.
Speak with the circus owner instead of arguing with the monkeys.
samthedog wrote:I use all garnet and aluminous oxide mostly.
You'll enjoy better success when sanding aluminum if you can procure silicon carbide belts.
Harold
I "think" silicon carbide is probably better for everything. At school a year ago we had those on
the 2 x ? Burr King and they lasted and lasted. Next orde, the teacher got the "wrong" type,
aluminum oxide, and they seem to go bad in very short time (relatively) . MOST of the work
done on the sander is steel but a fair amount of aluminum too. With never any "coolant / lub".
Can't expect kids to do that can you?
...lew...
samthedog wrote:I use all garnet and aluminous oxide mostly.
You'll enjoy better success when sanding aluminum if you can procure silicon carbide belts.
Harold
Very true. Now that I have invested in metal work tools I have a belt grinder silicon carbide. Before that I used what I had which was all wood working equipment initially.
Paul.
Speak with the circus owner instead of arguing with the monkeys.
Lew Hartswick wrote:I "think" silicon carbide is probably better for everything.
Well, not everything. Having worked as a grinder, I know all too well that silicon carbide, when operated at speeds that create significant heat (such as grinding or belt sanding) dissolves in to steel, so it dulls readily. It is much harder than aluminum oxide (the preferred abrasive for steel, discounting new abrasives), but aluminum oxide isn't dissolved by steel, so it performs longer because it dulls slower.
If you'd like better performance, I'd recommend you explore Norton's zirconia alumina abrasives (the blue belts). They'll serve very well for general purpose, with much better performance in steel.
No, I'm not affiliated with Norton Products!
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
