The Home Machinist!

Hi folks.

Got a new Kurt D688 and it wouldn't suck to have swivel capability. I'm hesitant, though, because I have a 10" rotary table for anything requiring rotary precision, and I'm not sure how often I'd be doing things that DON'T require precision, if that makes sense!

So two questions por favor. First, what's the thinking on swivel bases- good thing to have, or gimmick... and second, anyone know if the Glacern swivel base for their 6" vice will fit my Kurt? They seem unsure when asked.

(Glacern is $120, Kurt $240)

I got my vise with a rotating table, but I have never used it.
Like you, the indexing head is way far better.
Rotating bases are mostly used for angle cutting, but it can be achieved with a protractor and clamping that vise with finger claps.

Take into consideration also that lifting the cutting surface by adding a roto-base, you will loose steadiness and it may introduce chatter.

Well, following Harold's advice I removed mine, after realizing I hadn't used it but once or twice since I bought it,(gotta be 10-15 yrs.).
I like the less cluttered look around the table/vise base, and if I need to remove it, it's a lot lighter

There's more room between the spindle and the work, but I haven't run into any problems on my Tree 2UVR yet. (maybe I need bigger projects?).

Down side is, Now I have to make the speed handle I've been wanting to make for years 'cause the swivel handle dings the cross feed handwheel.
And I have no excuse for not making keys to allow me to remount it without needing the DI on the jaws, right? (Harold, you did say I wouldn't need to indicate it every time I put it back on the table if I had keys, didn't you? eh?)

I removed my swivel plate off my 6" vise when I got it.
I've never put it back on, and it's still on a shelf under one of my benches, still gathering dust. I better look...it might be pretty deep after all this time....

I thought it would be handy to have, and it may be for someone, but hasn't been for me.
When I bought a smaller vise, I didn't bother with the swivel.

Bill

I think you guys are reinforcing my gut- which says I don't need a swivel base.

I have a Kurt clone and have never used mine. Keep your eye out for a second hand one to throw under the bench, but I wouldn't pay the price for a new one.

Dave

stevec wrote:(Harold, you did say I wouldn't need to indicate it every time I put it back on the table if I had keys, didn't you? eh?)

Where I was trained, keys were not permitted on vises. Each operator was required to dial in the vise. That was a habit that followed me until I started my own shop and ended up with a small Kurt vise. I tried putting it on the table and discovered that it would locate, consistently, within less than a half thou. The fixed jaw had about that much error (not dead flat), so I considered it more than adequate for almost all the work I did. Note that my T slots are not badgered, which makes a huge difference. So then, assuming you locate off one side of the keys each time you install the vise, yes, you should be able to trust the keys. I would suggest you give it a go more than once, to verify that yours works as well as mine does.

Harold

Harold, I do intend to verify registration by the keyes that I WILL make, honest, I promise, (my road well travelled, is the one paved with good intentions) at least the first few times I re-install the vise.
Thanks again,
Steve

I've found my swivel base to be a 'nice to have when you need it' -- for angle milling. I may only need it once or twice a year. I can't speak to whether a Glacern will fit a Kurt. If given the option of a Glacern with swivel or a Kurt without, I'd take the Kurt.

I got around to solving the problem of my Kurt Klone vise handle hitting my crossfeed handwheel. The handwheel came out of inventory I pressed in a sacrificed cheapo ¾" socket I machined down and cut off and made a crank handlehandle more or less "freehand"
It works real smooth and going from full closed to full open is a dream compared to the old handle.
which I'll still need it for "cranking down" the vise prior to machining but we'll see how it goes.
The keys are next, I promise.

Just an update on using the "handwheel" to tighten the vise.
I've done several jobs using only the handwheel and it seems to provide enough leverage to tighten my Kurt Klone adequately . Nothing extremely heavy, but my average jobs.
The only problem, and it's insignificant, with having removed the swivel base is, that the table is now slightly higher, for jobs at vise jaw height.
Still haven't made the "keys" to index the vise to the table yet.

If your mill is CNC, you'll most likely NEVER use the swivel base. When I got my vises, the first thing I did was remove the swivel bases and throw them in the trash. If you use a swivel base, just remember, it's a lot of extra weight if you have to lift the vise.

I use two or three 3 inch vises on my Tormach PCNC1100. If the parts I look at are too big to fit in a 3 inch vise, then they are too big for me to do. Actually, if I can't hold a dozen parts in one hand, they are too big for me.