Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
I'm selling my lathe, but I refuse to part with my Albrecht chuck. Unfortunately, it has an MT3 arbor jammed into it, and the new lathe has an MT4 taper.
I want to get the chuck off the arbor. Do I need to remove the collar first, to keep from messing it up when I pry the chuck loose? I tried earlier, and the screw holding it on was stuck pretty good. I blasted it with penetrating oil, and it's soaking in.
I want to get the chuck off the arbor. Do I need to remove the collar first, to keep from messing it up when I pry the chuck loose? I tried earlier, and the screw holding it on was stuck pretty good. I blasted it with penetrating oil, and it's soaking in.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Get a MT3 to MT4 sleeve like MSC #: 00070342 here http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/Nav ... per+sleeve
Under 15 bucks.
Under 15 bucks.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Don't you lose accuracy when you stack things up like that?
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Oh ya, I wonder why they are so available? I'm just a hammer mechanic not a precision machinist like you.
I would NEVER suggest such a "fix" to Harold, ( I think he's away on jury duty so maybe I'll get away with that).
The other "foolish" point I considered was that maybe you might come up with a future app. with a MT3 socket????
I would NEVER suggest such a "fix" to Harold, ( I think he's away on jury duty so maybe I'll get away with that).
The other "foolish" point I considered was that maybe you might come up with a future app. with a MT3 socket????
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
I recently used the expert-approved alternate method of drilling a small hole in the inner back face of the chuck so I could use a punch to drive out the arbor. It did take a loooong time to get that hole drilled, but once I got through the punch drove the chuck right off. (The arbor shoulders were damaged by my attempt to use cheap wedges to drive it off conventionally, taking that option out of consideration.
Just something to consider if the wedges don't work. I sized the hole for the smallest punch-like tool I had handy, so I didn't have to drill out so much metal. Took at least two touch-ups on the flutes of the HF-grade "HSS" drill to get all the way through, not to mention a bunch of TapMagic.
-AG
Just something to consider if the wedges don't work. I sized the hole for the smallest punch-like tool I had handy, so I didn't have to drill out so much metal. Took at least two touch-ups on the flutes of the HF-grade "HSS" drill to get all the way through, not to mention a bunch of TapMagic.
-AG
Rule number one: Everything takes longer and costs more.
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Use the 3-4 taper sleeve. Although in theory, you may lose precision, you're just as likely to gain precision. In practice, you will never know. It's a drill chuck, a few tenths one way or the other matters not. The sleeve's accuracy is probably at least an order of magnitude greater than other alignment issues the tailstock will have, or the slop in the tailstock bore.
Wayne
Wayne
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Thanks, Wayne.
I don't really want to drill holes in the chuck. Hoping to avoid that.
I'm thinking I might sell it after all. I think I would be better off with a 3/4" or at least 5/8" chuck, and I see that some people say they're getting good results with Taiwan chucks that don't cost too much.
I don't really want to drill holes in the chuck. Hoping to avoid that.
I'm thinking I might sell it after all. I think I would be better off with a 3/4" or at least 5/8" chuck, and I see that some people say they're getting good results with Taiwan chucks that don't cost too much.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Oh Ya, " Thanks Wayne" . I offer the same suggestion and add the possibility of using the the MT#3 chuck on something else (like the Clausing you may never sell) and HE gets the credit.
Steve, ole bud, you're toast.
Steve, ole bud, you're toast.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
Give me your address. I'll send you a Pajama-gram.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
No thanks.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
You can't say I didn't offer.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Removing Albrecht Chuck From Arbor
I would get the adapter sleeve. You are going to need them anyway, so get several. While you are at it get one for the Skoda live center.SteveHGraham wrote:Thanks, Wayne.
I don't really want to drill holes in the chuck. Hoping to avoid that.
I'm thinking I might sell it after all. I think I would be better off with a 3/4" or at least 5/8" chuck, and I see that some people say they're getting good results with Taiwan chucks that don't cost too much.
Richard W.