stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
What is the difference in their uses
Can one use a stub arbor for holding slitting saws?
Is it better to use a slitting saw arbor,so as to keep the saw as close to the bearings, as possible? Does it really make that much difference?
Are stub arbors so long, so they can hold multiple cutters? Can this be used in a right angel head, on a milling machine, without and outboard support?
When creating a slit in a part where size is not important, as in parting a piece off, what size cutter is best used?
Any other do's or don'ts in regards to slitting saws would be helpful.
Thanks
Can one use a stub arbor for holding slitting saws?
Is it better to use a slitting saw arbor,so as to keep the saw as close to the bearings, as possible? Does it really make that much difference?
Are stub arbors so long, so they can hold multiple cutters? Can this be used in a right angel head, on a milling machine, without and outboard support?
When creating a slit in a part where size is not important, as in parting a piece off, what size cutter is best used?
Any other do's or don'ts in regards to slitting saws would be helpful.
Thanks
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Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
I don't know what the difference is, but i use a stub arbor for my slitting saws. yes, you could hold more than one on a stub arbor, although i personally have not. I think you will find that you wont generally put the saw in the higher positions on the arbor unless you are running a right angle attachment, because of clearance issues.
I have only used slitting saws on a couple of occasions, but one thing to remember is they have no side chip clearance, so you have to be mindful that you are not over aggressive and overload the gullets of the saw with chips.
I'm sure the experts will have more/better advice, I've read horror stories about people having trouble with using them, but it has seemed like a pretty straight forward operation when I have. wearing safety glasses would also probably be prudent advice.
Sam
I have only used slitting saws on a couple of occasions, but one thing to remember is they have no side chip clearance, so you have to be mindful that you are not over aggressive and overload the gullets of the saw with chips.
I'm sure the experts will have more/better advice, I've read horror stories about people having trouble with using them, but it has seemed like a pretty straight forward operation when I have. wearing safety glasses would also probably be prudent advice.
Sam
Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
Whatever you do, don't bother with one of those "universal" slitting saw arbors that have a series of spring-loaded centres to accommodate different sizes. Inaccurate as heck, and the saw willl end up off-centre, cutting with one or two teeth. Don't Ask Me How I Know This (tm).
Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
Although the arbor not being perfectly concentric will help cause the issue, is it not the nature of the beast that slitting saws usually do this?Torch wrote:Whatever you do, don't bother with one of those "universal" slitting saw arbors that have a series of spring-loaded centres to accommodate different sizes. Inaccurate as heck, and the saw willl end up off-centre, cutting with one or two teeth. Don't Ask Me How I Know This (tm).
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Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
I have a 4" 36 tooth 1/16th saw mounted on a stub arbor on the Nichols horz.,slowest spindle speed I have there is about 275 RPM. This is due to the stock motor being replaced with a direct drive 1725 unit. Anyway I use this set up as a cutoff saw on smaller stuff that don't fit the horz.bandsaw and the vertical takes to long. With dark cutting oil this set up walks right through 1" steel bar. Using the R/A head on the BP be SURE it is dead nuts square to the table travel .
www.chaski.com
Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
Then why do they have all those other teeth?RB211 wrote:Although the arbor not being perfectly concentric will help cause the issue, is it not the nature of the beast that slitting saws usually do this?
Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
In theory, all teeth cut. In practice, there's error in the blade, and there's runout of the arbor, either because it is poorly made, or is not held in a perfect attitude. Results in the cutter working with just a few teeth. It is for that reason that one must be careful when making feed selections. Those who have operated horizontal mills are very familiar with the rhythmic sound of cutters.RB211 wrote:Although the arbor not being perfectly concentric will help cause the issue, is it not the nature of the beast that slitting saws usually do this?
Harold
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Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
The first stub arbour I made had the saw cutting on only a couple of teeth but after that I learned that 3 jaw chucks are not perfect. Since then my stub arbours have worked reasonably--not perfect but well
Ken
Ken
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Re: stub arbor vs. slitting saw arbor
I use slitting saws mostly on AL but also on steel.
The first time I was hesitant and had a tiny DOC therefore the saw was cutting with a couple of theet. After gaining confidence I got some guts and increased DOC and feed, the noise changed and clearly a lot more theet were working.
You can get a good idea looking at the burst of chips spitting out, the longer the stream the more theet are working.
The advantage of an off center multi ring chinese job is that every time you mount the saw a new set of random theed are working and in the long run they all get be used.
The first time I was hesitant and had a tiny DOC therefore the saw was cutting with a couple of theet. After gaining confidence I got some guts and increased DOC and feed, the noise changed and clearly a lot more theet were working.
You can get a good idea looking at the burst of chips spitting out, the longer the stream the more theet are working.
The advantage of an off center multi ring chinese job is that every time you mount the saw a new set of random theed are working and in the long run they all get be used.
Mauro Gaetano
in Austin TX
in Austin TX