The Home Machinist!

Hope this is the right place.
I want to put a foot switch on my log splitter/capicitor start 2hp
The switch, is off a 110 -1 1/2 hp motor, has the black in and out to motor.
The capicitor start ,2hp 110 v, has black and white in and two red out to motor.
I don't want to burn anything out, can anyone help, or maybe another forum that might.
I can make up a wiring diagram if it helps.
thanks tap

Foot Switch to reverse the action or just on and off foot switch for safety?

Just an on off switch, to control the on off action.
tap

use a proper hp rated relay/contactor to turn the power on/off to the spitter motor. use the footswitch to control the
contactor, many surplus places will have these in proper voltages/ rated parts on the shelf. some even in enclosures.

here is the momentary switch that controls the splitter
white and black come into the left and two reds out to motor


this is the power box

couldn't I replace the momentary switch with a double pole single toggle?
and put the foot swich before in the power (blk wich is blue) line?
thanks for the help
tap

most foot switches i have seen have contacts rated for pilot duty(low amps) so running thru the foot switch direct will lead to early failure. i also suspect the hyd ram is power extend and spring retract????

has the momentary switch failed??

hammermill
the foot switch I have is pneumatic, took it off a 1 1/2 horse drain snake, it was on the line voltage (black wire)
it is power extend and spring retract, although I run that backwards.
HA HA no the momentary switch didn't fail, my finger did, the knuckel swole up like an egg.
And I've got good news to report.
I bought a double pole single through switch, ran the blk thru the foot switch and into that
thing works like a charm!!!!!!
Now for my summer chore 6 cord wood.
Thanks for all the help, it was the two red leads that had me stumped.
tap

If anyone else has this question, Hammermill is correct. Use a relay if you must use a footswitch.

Your footswitch spends it's time on the floor, in the swarf and other dirt. You are the fella handling the "bonded to ground" machine. Putting the footswitch in series with the motor means it is carrying the full load current of the motor. (Roughly 17A @ 120V, for a 1.5 hp motor, 21A for a 2 hp.) Running a control circuit means you can fuse the footswitch at the amperage required to actuate the relay. You could even use 12 or 24 V control circuit, if you want to reduce the potential danger. This assumes that power runs direct to the switch on the floor.

A relay will have electrically actuated contacts, with a spring to break contact. The contacts are sized to carry the load current, while the coil which actuates the contacts either draws far less current, or at a substantially reduced voltage.

Tap's switch may be (is?) a special case. A drain-snake is used by plumbers in potentially soaking wet conditions. There "may" be no electricity present at the actuator at all . . . Some pneumatically operated "footswitches" use a "bulb-on-a-hose" connected to a diaphragm-actuated mechanism similar to a retractable ballpoint pen. Stomp once to turn on, stomp again to turn off. A spring-loaded over-center mechanism makes and breaks the contacts. The actual contacts are mounted remotely, usually close to the motor itself.

Most industrial electrical foot switches are "pilot duty", their contacts are sized to operate a relay coil. (micro-switches) Tap's contacts appear heavier, but will still burn if not snapped open or shut. Check the ratings printed on your switch, +/- make informed decisions as to the suitability of that switch to that particular application.

DJD