When I rebuilt engines I always reamed the ridge before removing the pistons. That way the pistons came out easily, and also without damaging the ring lands.
John
Old Machinist's Tools
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Re: Old Machinist's Tools
Never seen one before, but I tend to agree--for lacing belts. Or sewing leather, in general.
Harold
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Old Machinist's Tools
Leather needle. Google it and look at the images straight and curve in different sizes depending on use.
Pete
Pete
Re: Old Machinist's Tools
Kwlly,
Wow, does that bring back memories. The garage that I hung out at as a kid used it all the time. I remember Henry saying that an engine would knock like the devil if you didn't get the ridge out. Considering that it was at the top of what was essentially the stroke of a square edge tool, it was probably a burr as much as a wear boundary. Modern iron alloys and oils means that engines don't become ridged like years ago. Bores also don't wear much. I did a 370 in one of my Fords and it had none in either category, and it had 150k on it. My engine shop friend said that that was very common, and claims that Nissan is the best of the bunch, and credits it to a nickel alloy in the iron. Whether or not its true or not, I don't know, but they sure do last.
I suspect that the moly and chrome coatings on the rings has a hand in it too. Speaking of Hastings, with the square-jawed guy in the logo, they are still there. I got a set of premium rings for one of the big Wisconsin air-cooled OHV engines not long ago. Wisconsin didn't have them, which I found odd, but an internet search led me right to the factory, and there was no problem. Pricey though, but everything is with those engines. You sure get your money's worth though. During that job, I ran across another tool, a ring fitter. It kind of looked like a table saw, only about 2"x3" in size. The "blade" was a thin cut-off wheel like you would use on a small air grinder, and it was turned with a crank handle. Set the ring flat on it, turn the crank, pinch the ring together on the wheel, and presto, the gap is ground square from both sides at once. Count your turns and you get an idea as to how much grinding will get you in the area of the desired .003/inch of bore diameter for the gap. To compensate for any slight wear in the bore that hones out easily, I buy rings that are .010 over standard and fit the gap by filing, but this tool was much quicker.
Thanks for the photos and everyone responses.
Bill Walck
Wow, does that bring back memories. The garage that I hung out at as a kid used it all the time. I remember Henry saying that an engine would knock like the devil if you didn't get the ridge out. Considering that it was at the top of what was essentially the stroke of a square edge tool, it was probably a burr as much as a wear boundary. Modern iron alloys and oils means that engines don't become ridged like years ago. Bores also don't wear much. I did a 370 in one of my Fords and it had none in either category, and it had 150k on it. My engine shop friend said that that was very common, and claims that Nissan is the best of the bunch, and credits it to a nickel alloy in the iron. Whether or not its true or not, I don't know, but they sure do last.
I suspect that the moly and chrome coatings on the rings has a hand in it too. Speaking of Hastings, with the square-jawed guy in the logo, they are still there. I got a set of premium rings for one of the big Wisconsin air-cooled OHV engines not long ago. Wisconsin didn't have them, which I found odd, but an internet search led me right to the factory, and there was no problem. Pricey though, but everything is with those engines. You sure get your money's worth though. During that job, I ran across another tool, a ring fitter. It kind of looked like a table saw, only about 2"x3" in size. The "blade" was a thin cut-off wheel like you would use on a small air grinder, and it was turned with a crank handle. Set the ring flat on it, turn the crank, pinch the ring together on the wheel, and presto, the gap is ground square from both sides at once. Count your turns and you get an idea as to how much grinding will get you in the area of the desired .003/inch of bore diameter for the gap. To compensate for any slight wear in the bore that hones out easily, I buy rings that are .010 over standard and fit the gap by filing, but this tool was much quicker.
Thanks for the photos and everyone responses.
Bill Walck