Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

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Conrad_R_Hoffman
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by Conrad_R_Hoffman » Thu Jun 21, 2018 2:24 pm

A light spring on a lathe chuck key doesn't seem too awful, but at work we have a spring loaded key for the drill press. What a PITA. I think it encourages destruction of the drive teeth. As you get older and have some arthritis you'll find a spring loaded key even hurts a bit.
Conrad

1947 Logan 211 Lathe, Grizzly G1006 mill/drill, Clausing DP,
Boyar-Schultz 612H surface grinder, Sunnen hone, import
bandsaw, lots of measurement stuff, cutters, clutter & stuff.


"May the root sum of the squares of the Forces be with you."

pete
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by pete » Fri Jun 22, 2018 2:33 pm

I'm positive your right about what happens with those spring loaded drill chuck keys Conrad. I tried one for awhile shortly after getting my then new floor model drill press just to see if I could adapt and get used to it. Because of the key's teeth constantly being pushed in/out and that engagement and not being as good as it should be unless you made a real point of keeping the spring fully compressed the key and chuck teeth seemed to wear much quicker. At least with that chuck key it was only a 5 min job to remove the spring. As already mentioned by others these safety devices seem to be more about protecting the manufacturers from ridiculous lawsuits than a good usable safety item imo. Anyone forced to use them due to OSHA or other rules certainly has my sympathy. Maybe a lot of the money spent trying to protect the fools from themselves might be better used teaching people to learn how to think about there own personal safety and self preservation a bit better?

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liveaboard
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by liveaboard » Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:30 pm

I never stand perpendicular to the chuck when starting. All sorts of things fly out, chips and oil in particular.

And that's why I didn't get hit by the chuck key.

Magicniner
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by Magicniner » Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:59 am

A much better idea for anyone hell bent on having a chuck key safety device would be a conveniently placed parking receptacle for the chuck key, with a motor start inhibitor switch preventing start up if the key isn't securely parked.

John Hasler
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by John Hasler » Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:10 am

Or, if you want to really complicate it, a key-in-chuck detector.

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tornitore45
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by tornitore45 » Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:55 am

Harold wrote exactly the way I feel about the issue.

Sometime is a waste of time removing the key to have to reinsert 6 second later.
I have never started the lathe with the key in.
There is no procedure that calls from the key to remain in after tightening. If it is in is most likely after losing and in wait to tighten on a new part. The key is right there looking at you before you trow the switch. Hard to overlook.

Same for all the armor around the table saw, preventing you to see what you are doing.
Mauro Gaetano
in Austin TX

John Hasler
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by John Hasler » Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:49 am

tornitore45 wrote:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:55 am
Harold wrote exactly the way I feel about the issue.

Sometime is a waste of time removing the key to have to reinsert 6 second later.
I have never started the lathe with the key in.
Neither have I (yet).
There is no procedure that calls from the key to remain in after tightening. If it is in is most likely after losing and in wait to tighten on a new part. The key is right there looking at you before you trow the switch.
As soon as I look away it crawls off and hides, though.

Harold_V
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by Harold_V » Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:05 pm

The problem with any of the "safety" devices (or dodges) is that they often limit one's ability to use the machine well. I offer you, as an example, keeping the belt(s) loose on one's lathe, so if there's a crash, they slip. To me, that's an open invitation to damage my tooling. If I can't take a decent cut, I'll stall the machine, breaking the cutting tool. I've never been able to stall the spindle on mine, in spite of taking cuts ¼" deep (per side) with negative rake carbide insert tooling.

I'm not immune to crashes, but I rely on my years of experience to keep me out of trouble. That has served me quite nicely.

To keep track of your chuck (and spindle key for those with a D spindle), mount an angle bracket near the machine (mine is mounted on the machine). Makes it dead easy to keep track of the key, and it's within reaching distance at all times.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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tornitore45
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by tornitore45 » Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:48 am

To keep track of your chuck key ...
My lathe has a "door" covering the change gears train. The door has a flat horizontal surface on top.
Drilled two holes for the key and the extra, small, Knob key for the 4 jaws.
Depending on which of the 4 chucks is mounted the right key(s) are stored in the holes.
If the key is not in the hole or in the chuck is lost in higher dimension space.
Saved hundred of hours looking for the drill chuck key since it was tethered.
Mauro Gaetano
in Austin TX

Harold_V
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by Harold_V » Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:19 pm

Your setup is similar to mine. The Graziano has a large hinged cover, but I chose to mount a pair of narrow angle brackets on the side face in lieu of holes directly in the cover, which offered the opportunity for contamination to fall inside the cover, possibly getting in the gears. The holes for holding the brackets are filled with permanently mounted socket head cap screws, so I don't have to worry about that problem. I also attached a small bracket on the front face, in which I store the square drive T handle that fits my OK Rubber Welders square indexing turret.

Like you, I change the chuck key to the one that fits the chuck in use. I store the unused key alongside the unused chuck, on the lower shelf of the bench I have stationed at my lathe. That keeps everything near, so I don't have to haul things I need for any given setup. That includes a large punched plate in which I store most of my 5C collets (duplicates are kept with my mill accessories). On the top of the bench I keep a piece of wool carpet (hot chips don't melt wool, unlike synthetic carpet) on which I place my measuring instruments when operating my machines. I have an identical bench at my mill.

I make mention because these simple additions have made a huge difference in using my shop. I am also working diligently to replace tools taken out of their normal storage area, so I don't have to hunt for them. That, alone, is saving me a lot of time these days.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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SteveM
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by SteveM » Tue Jun 26, 2018 2:55 pm

Between four different lathe chuck keys and three different tailstock keys. I mounted them all on the Atlas, I'd probably distort the bed.

I used to have a nice tray mounted to the end of the bed that held everything, but where the lathe is now, the right end is not as accessible.

I might mount a piece of angle, like Harold's across the front of the workbench and have then all there.

I hate it when I can't find it and it's buried under the swarf in the chip pan.

Steve

John Hasler
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Re: Self-ejecting chuck keys Y/N

Post by John Hasler » Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:28 pm

Steve writes:
I hate it when I can't find it and it's buried under the swarf in the chip pan.

I hate it when I can't find it and it's laying there in plain sight on the corner of the mill table (usually the handiest place to put it when I'm not paying attention). Perhaps I should put a rack for lathe chuck keys on the end of the mill table?

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