No argument. I use them only on parts that have been broken down to the smallest component, with all screws removed. I then dry them by hand and blow out any holes with compressed air. Cleaning of any still assembled sub-systems (QC box; carriage apron) is done in a tub with clean mineral spirits with adequate ventilation and protective gear (gloves; eye protection).Harold_V wrote:I would caution you in regards to using ANY water based cleaners on machine tools. They may do the job, at least to some degree, but you risk getting water in areas where it may not get removed in a timely fashion, or adequately, yielding further destruction to the machine.
Maximat Compact 10" MQ-3100 Lathe Build
- neanderman
- Posts: 896
- Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:15 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Re: Maximat Compact 10" MQ-3100 Lathe Build
Ed
LeBlond Dual Drive, 15x30
US-Burke Millrite MVI
Atlas 618
Files, snips and cold chisels
Proud denizen of the former "Machine Tool Capitol of the World"
LeBlond Dual Drive, 15x30
US-Burke Millrite MVI
Atlas 618
Files, snips and cold chisels
Proud denizen of the former "Machine Tool Capitol of the World"
Re: Maximat Compact 10" MQ-3100 Lathe Build
I can get a 220V 3 phase 2HP motor from a friend. The original motor is a 1HP 115V, will a 2HP motor be to powerful?pete wrote:
And that appears to be a very early model of Emco's 10" lathe. Emco made/makes excellent machine tools. I'm not sure I'd go to the expense of having the original motor rebuilt though.For the cost involved, I think a VFD and 220V 3 phase motor would be a far better way to go at probably much less money.
Pete
Jeff
Re: Maximat Compact 10" MQ-3100 Lathe Build
Years ago when it contained phosphates, we used to use boiling water and Tide to clean all old engine and carburetor parts in a motorcycle shop. It is surprising how much heat helps in the cleaning process.
If your motor runs normally in the forward direction and hums in the reverse direction, that does not indicate a motor problem unless it is an unusual motor. Almost surely a switch or wiring problem.
If your motor runs normally in the forward direction and hums in the reverse direction, that does not indicate a motor problem unless it is an unusual motor. Almost surely a switch or wiring problem.
Don Young
Re: Maximat Compact 10" MQ-3100 Lathe Build
Hi Jeff,
At least in my opinion doubling the motors HP really shouldn't be an issue as long as you do remember to keep the cutting forces within what the machine is capable of. In fact if you are going to use a VFD, then upping the motors HP is a very good idea anyway since it will help your available spindle torque at the larger diameters/lower rpm ranges. You then would have an even more usable system. My current lathe is already a 3/4 hp 120V single phase motor with a built in variable speed. Even with that I still want to go with that VFD/220V 3 phase set up because of that much smoother drive and all the programming and pre sets you can do with today's half decent VFD's. I'll most likely jump from that 3/4 hp up to around a 2 hp motor just for that extra torque. But, you do need to know that buying a VFD by only the cheapest price you can find isn't maybe the smartest thing you can do. I have read of some dirt cheap offshore built VFD's that don't come with enough internals to even work. So far I can't verify that's even true. But it does make me leery of buying at the cheapest price I can find. I would want to buy from someone that does have at least a top rated sales feed back. Myself I bought a Baldor VFD for my mill.
And if your not capable of hooking it up properly the same as I can't? I'd make a point of hiring at least a good industrial electrician, or even better buy your VFD from a local electrical / motor repair company and have them do the hook up. Mine cost me $50 to do so and it was well worth it. With today's VFD's it shouldn't happen due to the in built protection, but if they do blow up the VFD then obviously they have to replace it.
Pete
At least in my opinion doubling the motors HP really shouldn't be an issue as long as you do remember to keep the cutting forces within what the machine is capable of. In fact if you are going to use a VFD, then upping the motors HP is a very good idea anyway since it will help your available spindle torque at the larger diameters/lower rpm ranges. You then would have an even more usable system. My current lathe is already a 3/4 hp 120V single phase motor with a built in variable speed. Even with that I still want to go with that VFD/220V 3 phase set up because of that much smoother drive and all the programming and pre sets you can do with today's half decent VFD's. I'll most likely jump from that 3/4 hp up to around a 2 hp motor just for that extra torque. But, you do need to know that buying a VFD by only the cheapest price you can find isn't maybe the smartest thing you can do. I have read of some dirt cheap offshore built VFD's that don't come with enough internals to even work. So far I can't verify that's even true. But it does make me leery of buying at the cheapest price I can find. I would want to buy from someone that does have at least a top rated sales feed back. Myself I bought a Baldor VFD for my mill.
And if your not capable of hooking it up properly the same as I can't? I'd make a point of hiring at least a good industrial electrician, or even better buy your VFD from a local electrical / motor repair company and have them do the hook up. Mine cost me $50 to do so and it was well worth it. With today's VFD's it shouldn't happen due to the in built protection, but if they do blow up the VFD then obviously they have to replace it.
Pete