Fixed Steady Rest Question (Basic Questions)

[EOsteam]

Howdy all,

A 12 " long 1" bar needed to be mounted and turned. The plan was to stabilize the unsupported end with a Steady Rest so that the end could be faced off and centered drilled. All of my books show pictures of the setup but do not have a step by step method on how to accomplish it.

What was done was to mount the bar in the three jaw chuck and dial that end. Then the unsupported end was very loosely mounted in the fixed steady rest and then the dial indicator was placed on the crosslide and the apron was traveled down the bar with the dial indicator on the bar to show any deflection from the 3 jaw end to the fixed steady rest end. After this was accomplished the steady rest was adjusted for zero deflection and then the longitudinal axis of the bar was checked again to ensure that the bar had not moved.

Was this the proper procedure or is there an easier way? What is the textbook correct method? Thank goodness for this board because as an amateur this is the best way to pick us the information that would have been passed on to an apprentice or a student early on in their training.

Onward,

HJ

[spro]

Looks good to me. I answered sort of backwards to your later post. That steady gives the support for a face cut at the end. It is always possible the center drlll needs a little sharpening but you can't know that unless the point of entry is flat.

[Harold_V]

Assuming the part in question isn't too heavy to be supported by some means, how I set a steady involves no indicator, nor is one of advantage, aside from getting the part true in the chuck. Here's now I do it:
I start the process by gripping the material lightly in the desired chuck. A three jaw is adequate, depending on requirements, and if the three jaw runs reasonably true, or not.

Place the steady on the machine in the position you hope to use. Do this with the steady open, and the bottom jaws backed off, to allow the part to turn without contact, but near the material. Start the spindle at a slow speed. Advance the bottom two jaws until one of them makes contact with the spinning material. Note that as you advance the jaw, the material starts running truer. Keep advancing the jaw until the material is in full contact as it revolves, but NO FURTHER. Repeat that process with the other lower jaw, stopping when it is in full contact. Now close the steady and bring in the third jaw. When all three are in full contact, back off each jaw slightly, and repeat the process, being careful to not over tighten any jaw, so the material runs beyond center. Done. Now finish tightening the chuck.

Note that when you are tightening the jaws against the oscillating object intended to be turned, you can feel the piece in the adjusting screws, so this process if quite precise. You know when you're at center if you pay attention.

You might read of the idea to set the steady near the chuck, then move it to the desired location. I don't recommend that process, as it offers the opportunity for error. When the jaws of a steady are NOT properly located, the part, regardless of how hard it is gripped, will walk out of the chuck. Being on center is important.

Harold