Avoiding a stuck collet
Avoiding a stuck collet
Maybe this isn't a big deal, but before this becomes a problem it's best to ask.
This is the first time the 5-C collet system has ever been used by me. The lathe included 30 or so collets and and this 5-C adapter that fits the heatdstock taper that I dug out of a drawer in the toolbox of tooling that was included with the lathe purchase. The adapter is marked "Olson" and I'm using the 1" collet on the 1" bar. A drawbar is not shown.
My question is this: If the drawbar is tightened and the collet seats, will the collet adapter in the headstock get stuck and if it does how is it removed? I know that the drawbar will release the collet but I'm afraid to tighten without any feedback from the experts.
This is the first time the 5-C collet system has ever been used by me. The lathe included 30 or so collets and and this 5-C adapter that fits the heatdstock taper that I dug out of a drawer in the toolbox of tooling that was included with the lathe purchase. The adapter is marked "Olson" and I'm using the 1" collet on the 1" bar. A drawbar is not shown.
My question is this: If the drawbar is tightened and the collet seats, will the collet adapter in the headstock get stuck and if it does how is it removed? I know that the drawbar will release the collet but I'm afraid to tighten without any feedback from the experts.
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- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
- Location: Farmington, NM
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
The 5C adapter will not self release from the spindle nose. It has to be knocked out. I use a length of 3/4" dia steel rod, for weight, with a 1 3/8" dia plug of aluminum on the end, so as not to damage the adapter - you could use any soft metal such as brass or a durable plastic.
Might add that sliding the driver against the adapter by hand is enough to get it out - no need to hammer on it.
Might also add that keeping the spindle bore clean of chips is important; blow, vacuum, or swab with a rag on the front of your knockout bar - the last thing you want is chips in the adapter seating area or wadded up against the adapter when you want to take it out.
Might add that sliding the driver against the adapter by hand is enough to get it out - no need to hammer on it.
Might also add that keeping the spindle bore clean of chips is important; blow, vacuum, or swab with a rag on the front of your knockout bar - the last thing you want is chips in the adapter seating area or wadded up against the adapter when you want to take it out.
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- Posts: 219
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Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
Anything that goes into the spindle taper will require a knock out bar for removal.
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
Mine has a larger flange on it so i use a bearing splitter to remove it.
Just tighten it up and it pulls it right out without having to hammer the spindle bearings.
Just tighten it up and it pulls it right out without having to hammer the spindle bearings.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
I looked at that and thought that a wedge for removing Jacobs taper chuck on the drill press would also work. A bit more pondering I could see a modified pickle fork working. Grind the forks into a wedge that just fits the clearance between the adapter and the spindle.
Pickle fork:
https://www.google.com/search?q=pickle+ ... QQ_AUIBigB
lg
Pickle fork:
https://www.google.com/search?q=pickle+ ... QQ_AUIBigB
lg
I am unique, just like everyone else.
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
Learn something new every day, I've always called it a ball joint separator tool.
If I ever need one I'll have to remember to ask for a pickle fork at Pep Boys or Autozone
just to see the look on the counter persons face.
If I ever need one I'll have to remember to ask for a pickle fork at Pep Boys or Autozone
just to see the look on the counter persons face.
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
I would avoid any persuasion involving a wedge between the adapter and the spindle; you could mar the surfaces. Better to drive the adapter out with a soft metal faced bar as noted in Russ Hanscom's reply.
Mr.Ron from South Mississippi
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- Posts: 298
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- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
When I first started using the 5C collets in my lathe I would use a wood dowel to drive the collet chuck out of the spindle and it always drove me crazy to be doing any pounding against the spindle bearings. It didn't take me long to figure out that using the exact method that Glenn suggests is much better. It takes very little effort with the bearing splitter and I'm sure it's much easier on the spindle bearings.GlennW wrote:Mine has a larger flange on it so i use a bearing splitter to remove it.
Just tighten it up and it pulls it right out without having to hammer the spindle bearings.
17630100_otc_otc1122_pri_larg.jpg
Ted
Some people raise the IQ of the room when they enter.........others when they leave.
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
Well, while using a bar may not be to one's liking, do take note that Monarch provided a bar for just that purpose, evidence of which can be found if you look at pictures of the EE----with brackets holding a long bar on the front face of the chip pan. I suspect that it's reasonably safe to use a bar so long as a hammer isn't included.shootnride wrote:When I first started using the 5C collets in my lathe I would use a wood dowel to drive the collet chuck out of the spindle and it always drove me crazy to be doing any pounding against the spindle bearings. It didn't take me long to figure out that using the exact method that Glenn suggests is much better. It takes very little effort with the bearing splitter and I'm sure it's much easier on the spindle bearings.
Ted
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
I use a puller on my grinding wheels adapters as well, but I don't have a choice on the Bridgeport, so a hemmer it is!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
I do not think that the front face on Steve's lathe spindle is not (and correct me if I'm wrong) a mounting face. The chuck seats on the outer rim and possibly uses the shoulder to seat.
If he scratched it up with the bearing puller, it shouldn't make any functional difference.
On the other hand, tapping it out is not something that requires major force.
On South Bend lathes, the shoulder on the adapter is larger than the spindle nose protector, so when you take the spindle nose protector off, it ejects the adapter.
Steve
If he scratched it up with the bearing puller, it shouldn't make any functional difference.
On the other hand, tapping it out is not something that requires major force.
On South Bend lathes, the shoulder on the adapter is larger than the spindle nose protector, so when you take the spindle nose protector off, it ejects the adapter.
Steve
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- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
- Location: Farmington, NM
Re: Avoiding a stuck collet
One small advantage for a threaded spindle nose - my Sheldon was the same way, unscrew the thread protector and it ejected the collet adapter.