Enco Lathe Maintenance

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Zaphod
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:01 pm

Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by Zaphod »

I could use some advice on maintenance on an Enco 12x36 Gear Head Lathe Model number 110-2079.

I don't have a manual for this, and don't know where to get one. I've done some internet searches, but get some confusing or conflicting information. I started off thinking I was going to change the oil in it, but then I found out there is not one drop of oil in the apron gearbox... not good, So instead of changing the oil, I need to clean it all out and put oil in it. I haven't got a clue how much oil or what type to put in it. There is no sight glass or anything like that to indicate what level it should be filled to. I removed the apron gearbox completely… luckily the gears look very good, and function correctly, but I do see some evidence of contamination inside the gearbox, small particles and things like that, I actually do not see any evidence that there was EVER oil in there, which is very disturbing because I bought this Lathe Brand new from Enco Decades ago... it actually has never occurred to me that I should even check the oil level in the apron gearbox until now, It seems that if it wasn't shipped with oil in it, there would be a notice to put oil in it, like a great big sticker that you must remove stating it needs to be filled with oil, how much oil and what kind, but I don't recall any indication that it didn't have oil where it needed it. Luckily this lathe has had only very occasional use.

Is there something I can use as cleaner to wash down the interior of the gearbox to clean out any possible contaminates? I thought I could use acetone, or maybe brake cleaner but it looks like the inside surfaces have been painted or coated with something, I do not want to dissolve the coating... and I also thought maybe something like kerosene or diesel fuel would work, but then I don't know how I would get rid of it all, and maybe it would react badly with the correct oil, any suggestions on flushing this out?

I want to change all the oil in it, I did some searching and found some people say to use ISO 68 Oil in the gearhead, and others say to look up the maintenance in a Grizzly Lathe manual because it's a similar machine, but that manual says to use ISO 32 Oil, I've also seen a post about using Amsoil super shift racing transmission oil because it works better when cold. So what oil should I use in it? I don't have extreme cold, but still want to make sure I use good oil in it. The Gearhead does have oil in it, and it does have a sight glass, what is the normal procedure for filling it with oil, should I flush out the gearbox with something or just drain the oil and re-fill it? what is the normal level to fill to? 1/2 way up the sight glass, or should it be higher, the sightglass being an indication that the oil is very low.

Also I see points around the Lathe for oiling various moving parts, that have a small fitting with what looks like a small ball bearing in the center. What is the proper way to inject oil into these fittings, yes a very basic question I know, all the instructions I have seen just say to oil the fittings, but no explanation on how that is achieved.

I'm also wondering how I can remove old oil and/or coolant residue from the ways. I made some progress with just WD-40 and scotchbrite pads, but it is slow going and some surfaces have such a buildup on them that I can't get it off at all, my plan is to clean them all up really good and then re-lubricate them with the proper way oil. Any recommendations for way oil?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
John Hasler
Posts: 1852
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2016 4:05 pm
Location: Elmwood, Wisconsin

Re: Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by John Hasler »

You can clean out the apron with kerosene. A bit left behind when you put in the oil will hurt nothing. Add enough ISO 68 or similar to bring the level up to where at least one gear in every gear train dips into the oil. Don't obsess over the type of oil.

Fill the gearhead up to the middle of the sightglass. The level is not critical as long as you can see some oil.

You oil those fittings by pressing the tip of the spout of an oil can against the ball to depress it and pumping in some oil.

Never use any kind of abrasive on your ways. Soften the goop with acetone and scrape the worst off with a dull spatula, being careful not to make scratches. I use chainsaw chain oil for way oil, which will horrify some people. You can also buy expensive way oil.
curtis cutter
Posts: 559
Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 11:46 pm
Location: Curtis, WA

Re: Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by curtis cutter »

I have a 110-2075 and you are correct about no sight glass. I have the manual that came with the machine but it is a tad less than worthless. It does not address oil levels, quantities etc.

I have a small clear plastic cover on the top of the apron and I can see a gear through it. I assume it is the highest point in the apron and if when I rotate the handles I see fresh oil on that gear I figure I am ok with the level.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
Glenn Brooks
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Don’t know much about Enco lathes. However, my old Standard Modern 12” lathe used common 30 wt gear lube. I used 30 wt straight mineral oil, rated as Gl-1 oil. You’ll see this rating printed right on each oil container.) Commonly available in auto parts stores. It’s used in the all the older standard transmissions, anything with non hypoid gearing. This lube would work fine for your headstock and apron.

Also, if kerosene is to spendy for your budget, just use diesel to rinse out your case. It’s doesn’t hurt paint or other finishes. I keep a spray bottle of diesel in my shop all the time as a solvent. Very likely the sump in your headstock has a lot of sludge also. You can run the headstock for 20 or 30 seconds with a diesel flush and drain to clean out the filings and junk that accumulates over time. The just add fresh oil and your good to go.

Glenn
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SteveHGraham
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Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by SteveHGraham »

My lathe's apron takes Vactra 2, which is pretty much the standard way oil. MSC Direct has lots of lubes. Their price for Vactra is $14.40/gallon.

Diesel will smell while it evaporates, which is bad if your shop is attached to your house. Kerosene ought to work, and so will mineral spirits and WD-40 (expensive).

I wouldn't go near lathe ways with Scotchbrite or anything metallic. Gives me the willies just to read it. Maybe you should try something like Goo Gone. I don't know if brass wool would be a good move. It should be unable to scratch hardened steel or iron.

I wouldn't try to remove stains that don't affect accuracy. Lathes get stained. That's just life.

I hope your lathe has the Enco Infinite Improbability Drive. Please don't operate it while drinking that Ol' Janx Spirit.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
John Evans
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Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:33 pm
Location: Phoenix ,AZ

Re: Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by John Evans »

I would be embarrassed to admit I owned a machine for years and never checked the oil. Some of the Chinese lathes do not have a sight glass or level plug ,rather they just have a overflow hole etc for the excess to run out. I run ISO 32 [tractor fluid] in all my gear head lathes and QC boxes and aprons. Only exception is my 18" lathe apron which has a pump to oil the ways, that gets way oil [vactra 2]. Ditto for all the ball oilier ports ISO 32. Oil is cheap I use a LOT !! and my chip pans etc. show it.
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Zaphod
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:01 pm

Re: Enco Lathe Maintenance

Post by Zaphod »

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm happy to report I didn't get near the ways with scotchbrite..I was cleaning off the top of the carriage with it. I happen to have a lot of diesel around because my tractor uses it. My 'shop' is detached from the house... it's a 40 foot marine container I wired up with lights and power.... and an air conditioner. I tried using acetone to clean things and it did seem to work, but it does dissolve paint, and it also evaporates so fast it's difficult to keep it liquid, but using diesel seemed to help clean things up so far. I filled the apron box with diesel and cleaned it out, and it came out pretty good. I did notice diesel came out where one of the shafts comes through the side of the apron box, so I guess the oil will need to stay below that point anyway. I also have a clear section I can see a gear through if I move the cross slide in far enough, well it's supposed to be clear, but monitoring that seems like a great idea, so I'll clean it up and hopefully it will be clear again.
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