First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

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SteveM
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by SteveM »

Harold_V wrote: Sun Aug 25, 2019 1:34 am Don't make the mistake many make, using a caliper, be it dial, vernier or digital, for critical measurements (that's what micrometers are for). Such instruments are not capable, not even in skilled hands, of making readings when you are working closely (tight tolerance work, like fitting a bearing). You won't be exempt---no one is.
Calipers, particularly cheap one, are to be considered a roughing tool.

If you need to have a part within a few thou, they can be good enough. If you need something to within a thou, you need a mic.

Your 1" mic will be your most important tool - get a good one. I picked up a Starrett mic with carbide faces that reads to 1/10,000" (commonly referred to as 10ths) at an estate sale for $10. It's still my go-to mic 10 years later. Get one with a vernier scale (it's what you read the 10ths on) and learn how to read it. You can find youtube videos on reading vernier mics.

Do I have calipers? Yes, several. My favorites are my Starrett mechanical dial and my Mitutoyo digital, but I also have Starrett vernier calipers in 6", 12" and 24" and I can read them almost as fast as the dial and they NEVER go out of adjustment.

Use your calipers to check the progress on taking a 1" bar down to 1/2". When you get within maybe 30 thou, verify the diameter with the mic, take a pass at 10 thou, check with the mic (see if you are over or under), take off half of what's left, check with the mic, and take off the remainder.

Oh, and on the jobs where you need to work to a couple of thou? Do them to the thou for practice. Got a job where you need it to a thou? Do it plus or minus a few tenths.

If you can't work to tenths when you don't need to, you can't when it counts.

Steve
pete
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by pete »

Since we don't have an actual Harbor Freight up here in the great white north I've never bought any of those braised carbide lathe tools from them Norcal. What I can say is I did buy a cheap 25 pc braised carbide set through Enco years ago. All of them were dull as hell to start with. Years later after acquiring a half decent diamond wheel I could then put a lot better edge on them. They did cut a lot better, but the cheaper the tool the lower the grade of carbide is. Simply put that cheap carbide couldn't take and hold a sharp edge for very long. The edges broke down or even chipped a whole lot easier than the better brands like Micro 100 etc would. All High Speed Steel or Carbide isn't created equal just because it's labeled with the same name. After wasting far more money than I'd like to add up, if the price is dirt cheap then one or more critical steps ALWAYS gets missed in the tools material, performance and durability. Think about this, most of the small job shops end up operating on fairly thin profit margins. They'll try to save a buck anywhere they can. I've never once talked to a real full time machinist who would willingly use the cheap off shore cutting tools. That's not being a tool snob, that's there well found experience and use of logic for what works and what doesn't against the dollar spent. Yeah I've seen lot's on the hobby forums saying those dirt cheap cutting tools are more than good enough for a home shop. I've still never seen the same people ever mention they've ever tried anything better against what there using.

While it's about the manufacturing of replaceable carbide tips watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QrynzJ_lZ4&t=8s it's just over 6 min long and well worth the time. The process is highly automated so the costs of labor has very little effect on a tool tips final cost. Manufacturing high quality carbide tips that can stand up and perform takes time and high quality materials along with a great deal of experience and attention to the details. There's no short cuts to the same holding true for any metal cutting tool and the basic materials it's made from no matter where in the world it's being manufactured. The braised carbide still has to go through the same basic steps to be formed and sintered into the rough shape before there then braised onto the steel tool shank and then sharpened. With any cutting tool you pretty much get what your willing to pay for.
jcfx
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by jcfx »

norcalnewbie wrote: Sat Aug 24, 2019 2:49 pm
Solvents and Degreasers - I picked up a bottle of Zep Industrial Purple Degreaser as well, I'd be curious to hear your guys thoughts about areas I can and can't use it on. The previous owner seems to have had a mishap with the top of the screw-cutting gearbox, it looks like it was broken in about 3 places and on the underside it looks to be tack welded in a couple spots to hold it together. There is roughly 2" equilateral triangle of material missing under the placquard that shows what each lever position does. I used the Purple Degreaser to strip the paint and bring it to bare metal, my plan is to use some body filler that I picked up in that Home Depot trip to fashion a patch.
Do not use any of the water based degreasers ( Zep, Castrol Purple etc ) on aluminum, they're extremely alkaline,
I think Grease Lightning brand actually has lye in it's formula.
It will etch and damage aluminum surfaces, and that goes for zinc too, your lathe is an earlier version of the Emco lathes
before they redesigned and renames them to Maximat, in the later versions there is quite a but Zamak ( zinc alloy ) used.
My go to degreasers are Brake Cleaner ( chloronated and non chlorinated ), alchohol, naptha,and lacquer thinner, all are pretty
safe on all metals, just be careful with them, gloves and good ventilation.
Resources online - Pete, thank you for that link, invaluable info on that youtube channel. And for Practical Machinist, man, what a gem. I think I mentioned in the earlier post, but I've really been trying to get into this field for about 6 months or so now, and really putting in the time and effort to learn from all the amazing pieces of content people have published.
You may also want to join the Emco V10 lathe group on Yahoo, there are quite a few knowledgeable folks there
who are familiar with your lathe, as well as files, but it'll be a chore to search old posts because of the way the group is set up.
I'm a member there only via email ( refused to sell my cel # for access to the files )

Jim
10 Wheeler Rob
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by 10 Wheeler Rob »

You can get spindle and way oils from McMaster Carr in gallon sizes.
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Rex
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by Rex »

Did we decide yours is a Maximat V10? If so, I have PDFs of the owners manual and parts breakdown. Email me from my profile.

I've restored a lot of lathes over the last 20 years. I do use a lot of the purple cleaner, but not on anything i want to keep the paint on. I may be changing to Simple Green. Those hammered green Emco's usually have good paint, so it's worth saving in most cases.

I use Evaporust by the 5-gallon pail. Pricey but it removes rust totally, and does not harm paint, plastics, aluminum etc. It also dissolves things like old coolant stains that no other solvents will touch without harming paint.
There is a similar product on Amazon that is a gallon concentrate and makes 16 gallons. Works great on rust, but may not affect the coolant stains etc.

Other cleaning fluids I use a lot are WD40, Wal-Mart brake cleaner (avoid paint and plastics), and soapy water.

Don't fret over the abrasive pad. You could rub on a piece of steel for 2 days and remove less than .001". Use it sparingly though.
I do use a fine wire wheel on a bench grinder a lot. I also use a buffing wheel on a $40 HF buffer to get a high polish on things like handwheels and levers.

It just takes a lot of different tools - chemical and otherwise to get everything clean as it can be before reassembling.

Those lathes do have a rubber-mounted gear in the headstock geartrain that sometimes comes apart.
Also, the shifter levers in the headstock are a weak point.
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Harold_V
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by Harold_V »

Good to see you around again, Rex. It's been a while!
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Rex
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by Rex »

Harold_V wrote: Sun Sep 01, 2019 2:02 am Good to see you around again, Rex. It's been a while!
H
Thanks Harold, I've been neglecting forums, diverted by FB. I much prefer forums.
jcfx
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Re: First machine tool, need a bit of help identifying and advice on restoration steps

Post by jcfx »

Rex wrote: Sat Aug 31, 2019 6:04 pm Did we decide yours is a Maximat V10? If so, I have PDFs of the owners manual and parts breakdown. Email me from my profile.
Rex, What the OP has is Maximat Standard, they're the models Emco made before their numbered Maximat series.

If the OP is still following this thread I have a PDF manual for it, not sure how I came to have it
since I use a V10P and V7, private message me with your email and I'll send it ( 2MB pdf file ).
Jim
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