Large lathe, small job?
Large lathe, small job?
I'm ready to move up from my mini lathe to a full size. I have some larger projects I really want to do. But, I still want to be able to do my small hobby projects also. I sold my mini lathe last month and now eyeing a large South Bend. Its an older 13" SB with QC box. My question is; Will I be able to thread 1/8" Stainless rod on the 13" South Bend or is this to small of work for a large lathe?
Danny
Danny
- mechanicalmagic
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Re: Large lathe, small job?
Danny,wcsd211 wrote: Its an older 13" SB with QC box. My question is; Will I be able to thread 1/8" Stainless rod on the 13" South Bend or is this to small of work for a large lathe?
Danny
As long as the lathe has the proper thread available on the gear box, it's just fine.
The main problem using a large lathe for small work is the available maximum spindle rpm. High rpm is desired to keep the surface speed up on small diameters.
Dave
Every day I ask myself, "What's the most fun thing to do today."
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.
Everything is relative... compared to your mini-lathe, I am sure the SB13 seems huge. It is, in fact, a good medium to small lathe. 1/8" threading will be a bit tedious, especially without a collet setup to hold such a small part. The chucks for this size lathe may not close down enough to grab a 1/8" part without the jaws bottoming out. I think it'll do most anything you need, though. I was working 1/4" parts on a 15" LeBlond Tuesday. Not a problem at all.
As mm says, the biggest challenge is speed for small diameter work moreso than anything else. Stainless will be a bit better off as it likes to work slower anyway. Aluminum may give you fits. On the other hand, the bigger lathe will be a lot stouter, and thus may work as well, even at lower speeds. You will actually find the heavier machine to be easier to work with as it is far more rigid and less prone to chatter and flex.
My solution to the problem of big stuff and little stuff is multiple lathes. I have a SB10L for small tedious work, for heavy work, I have the 18" L&S. Between the two, I can work stuff from nearly watchmaker size to just a fuzz over 20". Speeds from 13rpm to over 2000rpm. Threads from 1tpi to 224. My suggestion would have been to keep the mini-lathe and add the SB.
As mm says, the biggest challenge is speed for small diameter work moreso than anything else. Stainless will be a bit better off as it likes to work slower anyway. Aluminum may give you fits. On the other hand, the bigger lathe will be a lot stouter, and thus may work as well, even at lower speeds. You will actually find the heavier machine to be easier to work with as it is far more rigid and less prone to chatter and flex.
My solution to the problem of big stuff and little stuff is multiple lathes. I have a SB10L for small tedious work, for heavy work, I have the 18" L&S. Between the two, I can work stuff from nearly watchmaker size to just a fuzz over 20". Speeds from 13rpm to over 2000rpm. Threads from 1tpi to 224. My suggestion would have been to keep the mini-lathe and add the SB.
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L
partial solutions
This does not address the spindle speed issue, but another solution I've seen on BIG lathes is to put a smaller chuck in the big chuck. Collets would be a better solution as far as keeping stuff centered, but collet systems are kinda scarce/expensive for 13" southbends.
Of course, for threading 1/8" rod, this is crying out for a tailstock die holder..
Of course, for threading 1/8" rod, this is crying out for a tailstock die holder..
- Bill Shields
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13 SBL collets
didn't they use the standard 5C collet system, or was it something else.
I thought that the 13" was just an undergrown 16", of which I have one - and would hate to have it as my only lathe...but when I need it, there isn't a substitute.
I thought that the 13" was just an undergrown 16", of which I have one - and would hate to have it as my only lathe...but when I need it, there isn't a substitute.
Correct Bill. The 13 is the same spindle taper and internal diam as the heavy 10 (10L and such). I believe Jeff Beck (tools4cheap on Ebay) sells a 5C collet setup for about $200, I intend to snag one of those very soon. Gotta put a new roof on the house first.
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L
- Bill Shields
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Collets
I have nothing against Jeff (have purchased much from him), but I prefer USA (even used) collets over some of the imports - and spend a great deal of time scanning eBay and other places regularly to see what I can get as available.
Most of my collection are Hardinge and Royal.
Now Jim, with his 3C....Jeff has just the ticket because 3C collets are tough to find - esp in hex and square.
Most of my collection are Hardinge and Royal.
Now Jim, with his 3C....Jeff has just the ticket because 3C collets are tough to find - esp in hex and square.
I certainly agree on the collets themselves, but I'm talking about the whole closer setup... nose adapter, thread protector, drawbar.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5C-COLLET-CLOSE ... 286.c0.m14
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5C-COLLET-CLOSE ... 286.c0.m14
18x72 L&S, Fosdick 3ft radial, Van Norman 2G bridgemill, Van Norman #12, K. O. Lee T&C grinder, Steptoe-Western 12X universal HS shaper, 16spd benchtop DP, Grob band filer, South Bend 10L