Jet 1336 PBD Lathe

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beez
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:24 am
Location: Sunny Oakland, CA

Jet 1336 PBD Lathe

Post by beez »

Hi all!
I've been lurking for a while, and now it's time for my first post!

You see, I've received a 1986 Jet lathe and I can't find any information about it on the net. I'm taking it apart, slowly, cleaning and taking pictures. I'm using WD-40 as a solvent, brushes and rags as tooling. I have set up an electrolysis tank and it's running full time taking rust off of parts.

This is my FIRST MACHINE so I'm not even sure what questions to ask although a lot come to mind. How about this, where can I find some documentation on the machine? Jet won't help, at least not via the web. Maybe I should call them?

Where can I find parts? I only need a couple items so far, a bolt, a washer, a square key ( yeh, I can make that one with a file.... ). I will also need belts soon as those on this machine are heavily worn.

The good news is that this cross and compound slides are in great shape! The gibs are still in the least adjusted position ( like new ) and the ways look fine, the axes are tight!

Bad news is the long axis. It's rusty. Not really too bad but not so you would want to use it either. I'm going to be stripping down to the bed and using a trashcan for electrolysis. Hope I don't have to learn to scrape. I can imagine much easier starter projects.

I guess that's enough for now, hope there are some folks out there that can help me! It looks like a really nice machine!
Thanks!
Beez in sunny Oakland CA
:D
Beez
gangel99
Posts: 174
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:48 pm
Location: Fairfax, CA

Post by gangel99 »

Welcome! Miscellaneous parts can be found on Enco http://www.use-enco.com, MSC Industrial http://www.mscdirect.com, and McMaster Carr (most expensive). Enco and MSC are the same company but service different markets. Enco is for smaller shops and home machinists and has better prices but less selection.

If you need standard hardware I recommend Pagano Ace Hardware in Alameda on Lincoln Ave - very close to the tunnel - and much better selection than Home Depot. There is also a Grainger in Emeryville at Ashby just before San Pablo.

Jet is a brand of better import machines and they deal with distributors so it is not surprising their web site is no help. Enco and MSC both sell Jet equipment so you might try them.
spro
Posts: 8016
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:04 pm
Location: mid atlantic

lathe

Post by spro »

Welcome. The lathe you have probably has hardened bed ways. There is either a label above and to the right edge above the leadscrew/s that say induction hardened or some such. Even if there is a sticky spot about 1/2"X 2 1/2 -3" like a label was there or two holes where a plate was, That's what it said. The iron may be crap but the ways were hard and some brass scrub should bring them back. It needs to be set up level while you clean it up and you will find it changes over time. Rather massive yet still open to twist or untwist. Precision level.
beez
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:24 am
Location: Sunny Oakland, CA

Hardened ways!

Post by beez »

It is in rather nice shape except for being very dirty and a little rusty. There IS a label on the end of the bed saying Ground and Hardened Ways. It has a little diagram of an end view of the ways with red highlights of each corresponding hardened section.

All the other placards are there too, although I have yet to decipher the threading and feeding placards. I'm starting to gather that there must have been some accessory gears that I did not get with the lathe. So, I'm looking for those too, stock parts will be easy/hard/impossible to find?

Thanks!
Beez
:D
Beez
Blackstone Valley Shops
Posts: 128
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:06 am
Location: Chepachet RI

Post by Blackstone Valley Shops »

Beez, If I remember correctly the Jet is a belt driven lathe. I think Grizzly imported the same basic lathe as model G1003 around the early 80's. Grizz. has manuals and parts lists on line. Might be of some help. Good luck.
Sally Imbriaco
User avatar
Charlie W.
Posts: 72
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:18 pm
Location: Concord, CA.

Post by Charlie W. »

Is your lathe like this 1236? I no longer have the lathe but I have a manual for it, that you can copy. I am in Concord.

Image
beez
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:24 am
Location: Sunny Oakland, CA

1336

Post by beez »

Excellent Information Mark! Thanks!

Charlie, yes, it looks a lot like that, slightly fancier I guess. There are three rods along the bed: Leadscrew, power to the apron, and a power switch rod that goes to a hand lever on the apron. Other than that, and that it's grey, very similar. Is there a Kinkos near you?

Yes, it's a belt drive, with conical sheaves and two belts. There are also gears in the head with a two speed setup and a little dog that has to be pulled out behind the chuck to disengage the belt and engage the low speed gear drive.

Anyone think it's possible to order stock parts somewhere for this 13 year old machine? Or do I have to scour the earth for leftovers? I'm pretty surprised at the dearth of hits when I google "jet lathe" or something like that.

Thanks!
Beez
:D
Beez
lakeside53
Posts: 809
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 12:44 am
Location: Woodinville, WA

Post by lakeside53 »

I wouldn't bother with electrolysis for the rust removal on the bed ways.

I recently did a 10x28 lathe bed by first degreasing, then applying paper towels soaked in evaporust, then covered with plastic wrap for overnight. I had to apply more solution a couple of times. A light scuff with a non-abrasive scotch guard type pad (white) helped the process along and removed the carbon (part of the iron) left behind when the rust was dissolved.

I've used both electroysis and Evaporust. Both have their places. When dealing with some assemblies. it's a pain to srtip every last piece out - evaporust will not affect paint or any other non-rust part contained within - paint alluminum, brass, plastics etc... I've even freed up entire gear clusters - they literally fell of the shaft after the rust was disolved.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff15 ... 9Large.jpg

You can see part of the finished ways in this picture...
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff15 ... 2Large.jpg


www.evaporust.com
Ries
Posts: 208
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 11:05 pm

Post by Ries »

Call up Jet and ask em if they have the parts you want.
Sometimes they do, sometimes they dont.
Jet has been in operation in one form or another since they started importing Japanese comealongs and winches in the early 1960's.
So they have sold literally tens of thousands of different products, and some are just orphans.

But if you can talk to the actual Jet service tech guys, they usually have info. I have had em fax me manuals for older machines.

Many parts on that machine are generic, and available from the sources listed above.
Others may be unique to that lathe- each company that ordered lathes from the tens of Chinese and Taiwanese factories ordered slight variations, and so, often two lathes that look similar will not have interchangeable parts.

Oh, and no matter how much all us aging guys wish it was true, 1986 was not 13 years ago... try 23.
beez
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:24 am
Location: Sunny Oakland, CA

Jet powered lathe!

Post by beez »

"Oh, and no matter how much all us aging guys wish it was true, 1986 was not 13 years ago... try 23."

Well, I'm not sure if that was a typo or a thinko! I am sure I had it right in my head at the time. :?

The Grizz 1003 looks pretty similar, but there are some obvious differences as well. Are the "back gears" the gears at the left most end of the lathe? The G1003 says it has helical back gears and mine appear to be straight cut. The only reason I care is because there appear to be some accessory gears that I am missing there...

The good news is that the electrolysis process really works! I have a nice clean chuck now! I will learn and post some pixtures soon. I'm taking a lot!

I have it stripped down everything off the bed except all the stuff from the head end. Getting the saddle and apron off was interesting, I'm guessing instructions would have helped. :)

I'm not really worried about taking the head end off too, is it a bad thing to do? Will I have trouble aligning the head? I think I need to learn how to do it anyway.

I need to get the chuck adapter off, looks like a normal right hand thread. The other end of the spindle has two locking rings and it looks like I need some kind of special spanner for holding that. Anyone know where I can get that tool plus a chuck key? Enco had chuck keys but surprisingly expensive at about 23 bucks for the one I think I need.

I'm debating taking the spindle out. It's rusty inside the thru bore. If I get into collets is that going to be a problem? How hard is it to take the spindle out and how hard is it to reset it? Are there bearing preloading procedures that I will have to undertake?

Scotchbrite, is it OK, the green stuff?

Ok, I think that's enough for now, sorry about the train of thought format. It's been a long couple of days of disassembly. Taking pictures, cleaning and boxing stuff up.

Peace!
Beez

8)
Beez
beez
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:24 am
Location: Sunny Oakland, CA

Rust Renovation

Post by beez »

lakeside53 wrote:I wouldn't bother with electrolysis for the rust removal on the bed ways.
Ok, why? Just the complexity of the tear-down and re-assy/alignment? What's in the evaporust? Does it harm the good metal like naval jelly would? Your Emco looks mighty fine! Got any before pictures? Was that all you did, those ways look as good as new! I doubt mine are going to look that good no matter what I do.

Question. What other steps do you take when de-rusting stuff. Im learning all this stuff fresh. Right now it's clean, electrolyze, rinse, wd-40, wipe. I'm thinking a little scotchbrite after the wd-40 might produce a better result, but I'm scared to try it on the ways.

Thanks!
Beez
:D
Beez
lakeside53
Posts: 809
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 12:44 am
Location: Woodinville, WA

Post by lakeside53 »

yes, complexity.., and that you may do more harm that good. Taking the headstock off means realignment - not trivial to do.

Evaporust is not toxic or acidic. It in no way affects anything other than iron oxide. It will chase the rust down to the metal but not affect the metal, paint etc. Follow the link - it explains the action.

Scotchbrite is a trade name. It comes in many forms and varying abrasiveness from "none to brutal". Evaporust will remove the rust. Abrasives will remove metal. Just use the white (just nylon pad)"scotchgard" to clean of varished oils after solvent, or carbon residue (after evaporust). Mild pitting or staining will have no effect on the operation of the ways.

Your spindle - yes.. you may damage it or the precision bearings if you do not have the correct tools to remove/set the bearing seats (assuming it uses roller bearings). Just stick a cork in the rear end of the spindle, tip the lathe vertical, and fill the spindle full of evaporust. I did just that on my emco - came out like new.


Spanner wrenches - you can either make them or buy them. I made a few, but also bought a full set of "adjustable" high quality wrenches. Not cheap...
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