Lathe threading math
Re: Lathe threadiing math
At your convenience, len. There's no hurry.
I can understand being behind. The events of the last few days have spread all of us a bit thin.
Good luck with the project.
Harold
I can understand being behind. The events of the last few days have spread all of us a bit thin.
Good luck with the project.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: Lathe threadiing math
I just wanted to jump in and say a "thread", like this one is one of the greatest things about these discussion boards. When several intelligent folks can have a discussion like this post has, everybody just can't help but win! Personalitys are always going to be different and we all know that. I do believe Harold and I are much alike when in our shops, striving for that last bit of perfection. My shop is just a home shop, but I just can't help trying to hold .001 on everything I do. Of course, I know it may be silly, but what the hell. I completely understand this isn't what goes on in a shop making money. But anyway, I really do enjoy Harolds post's, and everybody else's also. I never interept these post's as somebody is right and somebody is wrong, but usualy everybody has a certain view and nothing but good comes from these discussions. One thing I don't have a good understanding of is gearing, even though I made a worm gear for my milling machine that I couldn't find new. So come on fellows, lets have a long discussion about gearing!!!!
Michael
Michael
Saimp 2 HP 10 X 44 mill, #2 Cin Horz Mill, Cholchester 13" lathe, LeBlond 15" Dual Drive.
Re: Lathe threadiing math
One thing I don't have a good understanding of is gearing, even though I made a worm gear for my milling machine that I couldn't find new. So come on fellows, lets have a long discussion about gearing!!!!
Michael
I'm afraid I'd have to be doing the listening on that subject. Sadly, my training was job specific, so I have had no instruction on gears. They didn't have any transmissions in the missile! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/grin.gif"%20alt="[/img]
It's going to be a pleasure to read the views from those with knowledge. Any volunteers?
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Pee Dee wires?
The difference between Pee Dee wires and the "thread wires" that Harold is talking about, is it a difference of precision or do they differ in some other way? I can find them both on the web but at a slight difference in price.
Someone else asked the same question up-thread but I can't find an answer. Please excuse me if I've missed it in the hubbub.
To learn to cut good threads, should a poor basement-shop greenhorn order the $19 Pee Dees? You can bet I won't be spending the price of a mill on "real" wires!
BillJ
Someone else asked the same question up-thread but I can't find an answer. Please excuse me if I've missed it in the hubbub.
To learn to cut good threads, should a poor basement-shop greenhorn order the $19 Pee Dees? You can bet I won't be spending the price of a mill on "real" wires!
BillJ
Re: Pee Dee wires?
To learn to cut good threads, should a poor basement-shop greenhorn order the $19 Pee Dees? You can bet I won't be spending the price of a mill on "real" wires!
The PD wires are more than adequate. While there are serious differences between them and "proper" thread wires, the only thing that would really effect you and your work is the lack of a specific constant that permits the use of published pitch diameters, which are provided as maximum and minimum diameters. With "proper" wires, all you have to do is add the constant for the specific pitch wire to the published information and you have a set of readings that are the maximum and minimum pitch diameters over the wires. It makes life real easy, but that may not be a necessity for the majority of the work you'll ever do as a hobbyist.
PD wires don't work that way, although its possible for them to do so. PD, and all the others I've seen, provide a constant that is simply added to the theoretical major diameter of the thread. That information does not provide any kind of guidance as to where the reading falls within the tolerance, all it does is suggest to you that your thread is "on size", what ever that means. You would be unable, for example, to chase a class 3 as opposed to a class 2 thread in many instances because of the minor differences in pitch diameter.
J_Tiers suggested that one could easily calculate the constant that would be added to the pitch diameter, and he's right. If you're good with math, all you have to do is calculate where the particular thread wire you have fits in relation to the thread, then, using that information, you can calculate the right constant. I'm not able to do that, for I don't have an extended education in mathematics. Didn't learn anything in high school, either. I took the easy way out and didn't take any math classes. Big mistake!
Proper thread wires are the ultimate diameter for each thread size. That is not true of the PD type wires, where the wires provided are within the tolerance zone of the formula, but each wire size may or may not be measuring the thread at the pitch diameter. So long as your thread form isn't out of tolerance, that makes little to no difference on the function of the wires.
Proper pitch wires are held to extremely close tolerance and are certified so they can be used for calibration purposes. They are finished all over, including the ends, unlike the PD wires. While it's never been proposed to me that they are far more precise than they need to be for general production work, I would suggest that they aren't made in grades, such as calibration grade as opposed to a shop grade, because the difference in cost in making them wouldn't justify making and stocking various grades, especially when you consider how many shops don't use them. My experience dictates that only top notch shops tend to use (proper) wires, which is a shame.
Buy a set, Bill. You'll not regret it. I have been sort of mentoring a fellow that has been making parts as a hobby for about 25 years now. He has never had a machinist to talk with, so one of the first things I convinced him to buy was a set of the wires. In spite of the fact that they aren't "up to snuff" in my eyes, he is thrilled to have been introduced to them. Up until now, he's cut threads blindly, so the ability to measure to some standard has been a marvelous step up for him.
After you get your wires and discover how much they add to your ability, the next thing I want to convince you to buy is a couple sets of drill blanks. That may sound stupid, but they are likely some of the most versatile tools in the shop. You can usually buy sets of them for about $20/$25 on ebay, in an index, and there's nothing wrong with buying them there. I've added several sets that way. I have them in numbers, letter and fractions, 2 sets or more of each.
Good luck, Bill.
Let us hear your impressions of the wires!
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: Pee Dee wires?
Congrats! This thread hit a 100 posts. I've enjoyed it.
Jon
Jon
Re: Lathe threadiing math
Boy did I open a can of worms..I was able to figure out what I needed to know..by the help of a couple of guys that sent me threading charts and thanks to Bruno..for taking the time and e-mailing me..a few times..It took me a few tries before I figured out how to thread..My last three test pieces turned out great..I needed to leave then a bit on the loose side to allow for anodizing. Like lots of things in life the more you do it the better you get.
Thanks to all..
Tony
Thanks to all..
Tony
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Re:Back to John
John
I was answering his question
"what is the math formulas for figuring out the depth and amount of infeed for "Sharp V Groove" threads.
He didn't as what the standards were for good form nor methods of measuring them.
I am not recommending this method, as I prefer wires myself, but given the frustration level, the KISS method works everytime.
I was answering his question
"what is the math formulas for figuring out the depth and amount of infeed for "Sharp V Groove" threads.
He didn't as what the standards were for good form nor methods of measuring them.
I am not recommending this method, as I prefer wires myself, but given the frustration level, the KISS method works everytime.
Re: Lathe threadiing math
For what it is worth,
Anodizing aluminum is a non-buildup coating. It is more of an acid electro-etching process that is reverse of plating.
It is nice to hear others in the back ground were being supportive too. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/wink.gif"%20alt="[/img]
DC
Anodizing aluminum is a non-buildup coating. It is more of an acid electro-etching process that is reverse of plating.
It is nice to hear others in the back ground were being supportive too. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/wink.gif"%20alt="[/img]
DC