SteveHGraham wrote:What kind of soft metal? Foil? A bent sheet of something?
I use 1/8" thick copper about 1/2" wide. When it gets hard I anneal it by heating it to a dull red and dropping it in water.
Richard W.
SteveHGraham wrote:What kind of soft metal? Foil? A bent sheet of something?
I find that round rods only work well between centers when the tail stock is out of position. Like 1.5" high, low or just off center. (Sometimes the machinery in the shop leaves much to be desired.) Round rods give you an effect like a universal joint. Lets things move more freely than you want. I would stick with flat material. If you check Ebay there are quite a few copper strips 1/8" thick for sale. You might even get by with 1/16 easily enough for your lathe.seal killer wrote:Richard--
Might a person have a 6"x1/2" piece of aluminum or bronze rod dedicated to the purpose? Does "tap it in" mean like "tap tap tap" as you would put a nail through sheet rock to hang a picture? Or harder? (TAP, TAP.)
Once again we simul-typed!
--Bill
If its the soft aluminum it will work, but I prefer copper. It just seems to work better.SteveHGraham wrote:I have a sheet of 1/16" aluminum lying around, but no copper.
it seems to be the "best" way ive seen. lucky for me my 3/8 T-handle (for sockets) works great as a second chuck key.seal killer wrote:sk1nner--
That is the same method as the one I found at littlemachineshop.com. However, the video you posted adds a second chuck key, which would be of great help!
Thanks!
--Bill
You got me confused here? Are you tapping the end of the part away from the chuck or are you tapping on the chuck jaws?seal killer wrote:Richard and All--
I have to admit I don't understand the jaw alignment procedure. I wanted to come back and ask intelligent questions after researching 4-jaw chuck jaw alignment, but I could not find anything on the net . . . Google was not my friend.
Here is what I THINK the procedure is . . .
1) Chuck a soft metal (aluminum, brass, bronze, copper) rod and dial it in. (Is it chucked lightly or firmly?)
2) Place a flat piece of soft metal, preferably copper, over a jaw and tap it into place. (Does that process seat the jaw on its ways in the chuck?)
3) Repeat step 2 for all four jaws.
4) Remove the soft metal rod and chuck the intended work piece. (Do the jaws remain "tapped" in place?)
The questions assume I'm stating the steps correctly, which is problematic. Straighten me out.
Thanks!
--Bill
You have it wrong! I dial in just about everything so that the needle on an indicator that reads to .001 doesn't move. Its just the standard I shoot for and it not hard to do.SteveHGraham wrote:I get the impression that Richard is like Harold. Maybe a tier or two above the video guys, who just want to get the parts made and stay within a thousandth or two.
I don't consider myself to be above Harold. I have him on a higher plain.SteveHGraham wrote:I get the impression that Richard is like Harold. Maybe a tier or two above the video guys,