The Home Machinist!

WD-40 on the file will help prevent sticking the aluminum in the teeth, just as it helps when turning. As mentioned, the file card is your best friend on this job.
There are special files for lathe filing. The teeth are at a much greater angle than those on a mill bastard. This helps to shear off the material. I have a 12" Simmons that has LATHE stamped right on it by the trademark.

--earlgo

Can someone elaborate on the file card and cleaning files? I've thought I've ruined some by flattening the edges but maybe they are just plugged.

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Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
Logan 10x24 Lathe, RF-30 Mill, 20 Ton Press
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...

The file card works OK, but to really clean a mill file, I prefer taping some aluminum sheet to a putty knife. Push it in the direction of the grooves in the file and the aluminum will conform to the file pattern and clean everything out righ down to the roots.


Some do the same using a slice of hardwood.

Using chalk will keep it pretty clean.

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Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!

If you've used the file card like a brush, working front to back on the teeth, that's a mistake. File cards have heat treated wire teeth that are very capable of destroying the cutting edges of files. Some folks insist they shouldn't even be used.

To use one with minimum damage, to both the file card and the file, draw the file card parallel to the teeth of the file. Don't push! The offset of the teeth is intended to dig in to the file, to remove pinning. If you push, the teeth float over the material and gradually lay down, never to stand up again.

You are well served to follow the lead both Glenn and I provided---using a thin piece of metal, parallel to the teeth. It's' faster, works better, and doesn't harm the teeth.

Harold

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Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

Apparently Bamboo can be used instead of aluminum or other "softish" metal. I've yet to try it myself, I'm waiting for the Pandas to leave before I cut some bamboo.

Might giver 'er a try this weekend on some smaller stock. Will try doing it by hand with the cutting tools and gradual feed (how to say that? In other words, I'll try an HSS tool in the holder and use the dials to work it). No free handing with the files just yet.

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You never know what your faith is until your faith has truely been tested.

A piece of hardwood can be used, too, but if the pinning has attitude, it just removes the wood instead. That's why a piece of metal is more desirable. You can see how well the piece of aluminum works for Glenn-----results I get are the same from the titanium I use. Aluminum is far more readily available. I lucked in to the piece of titanium, which is rigid enough that it needs no further support. I'm not promoting its use---just suggesting that if you happen to have some available, it works well.

Harold

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Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

Titanium, Aluminum, hard wood, bamboo all works.
I flattened a 1/2" copper pipe on end and soldered a cap on the other, drill a hole radially to hang, presto a round handle and a flat soft metal edge.
Not yet found a subborn enough pin that could not clean out.

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Mauro Gaetano
in Austin TX

I use an piece of 357 Magnum brass, hammered flat on the open end and annealed, with the primer end jammed into a worn out (drilled to press fit) file handle. Readily takes the set of the teeth like a really stiff coarse brass brush. Works great and allows "focus" on problem areas when they arise.

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Russ
Master Floor Sweeper

Just give the file to the Pandas and let them clean it!

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Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!

Glen and Harold,

Another day, another lesson learned.

Jack.

BadDog, did you remove the charge before hammering that 357 Magnum flat?

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Mauro Gaetano
in Austin TX