Precision chuck for old Southbend

[martik777]

Best thing I did was to machine an ER collet chuck and nut on my 9A. A full 15pc ER25 set is only $45 on ebay

[Ed P2]

Thanks John.

I DO like the idea of collets for small work and could machine an adapter in place on the spindle. I also don't need a broad range of sizes so I could acquire collets a few at a time as I see the need.

Hummmmm, food for thought.

In that case you could machine your own 5c collet chuck for your lathe. Very high quality, nice guy to do business with.

Metal Lathe Accessories: http://statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA21.html

Ed P2

[Jim Jakosh]

I use collets to get good precision, but I always don't have a standard size and the collets only go to 1/2".

For bigger stuff and odd stuff, I use a 4 jaw chuck and indicate the piece in.

[10 Wheeler Rob]

For small model piping components I mostly use collets which run very accurately and grip small parts much better. You can also get them in hex and square configurations.

My lathe is limited to 3C sizes. If you can use 5C even better or a 5C chuck would be another option.

Rob

[Rex]

I bought that CDCO 6" chuck last year for a SB 9A. Best I could get it was .006 TIR, despite cutting the backplate 3 times. I sold it locally (with full disclosure) and put a used chuck on it.

As others have mentioned, 5C collets are the way to go. My primary lathe is a newer Grizzly 12" which has the same spindle thread. For that I have a Hardinge Sjogren 5C collet chuck. That chuck will pass from my hands via estate sale, if then.
If I did not have that, I'd buy one of the spindle-mount 5C closers that tighten with a chuck key.

Here's a budget workaround: http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=5cblock
You can mount the hex unit in a worn out 3-jaw, and shim the jaws until it's perfect. For easier use, you can make a draw tube for it, using the nut that comes with the set for the threaded end. You can do the same thing using an old 4-jaw chuck and the square collet holder.

[Shakeyjake36]

I bought a 4" three and four jaw chuck from Wholesale Tool because that was all I could afford , and well I got what I paid for. They work OK as long as you are aware of the short comings and plan ahead. If you can find a collet set you might be better off in the long run, just keep the chuck you have for the larger stuff and use mandrels for the rest. You can even buy small chucks that work with a collet drawbar, may be just the ticket.

[SteveM]

If you need quick and cheap, and you don't need to stick stock thru the spindle, you can get MT3 collets to go right in the spindle. If you already have 3C or 3AT collets up to 1/2", you would only need to get the sizes larger than 1/2". They go up to 3/4". I have a set for just such emergencies.

Also, if you don't need to stick stock thru the spindle, you can get an ER collet chuck with an MT3 shank and put that right in the spindle. ToolsCheap has one for $35.

ToolsCheap has an ER collet chuck on a plate you can mount to a backplate:
http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.p ... =er40plate


Steve

[ctwo]

I bought that ---- 6" chuck last year for a SB 9A. Best I could get it was .006 TIR, despite cutting the backplate 3 times.

I've been looking at that one and similar at T4C, the latter looks better (if you can trust the pics) just because of where the inner jaw-mounting hole appears, with more meat on the inside. The other one was slightly le$$ on sale now.

But not jumping around for .006 TIR.

[SteveM]

Here's a budget workaround: http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=5cblock
You can mount the hex unit in a worn out 3-jaw, and shim the jaws until it's perfect. For easier use, you can make a draw tube for it, using the nut that comes with the set for the threaded end. You can do the same thing using an old 4-jaw chuck and the square collet holder.

Hey, Rex - that's pretty creative!

Steve