Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

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Ironman1
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby Ironman1 » Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:44 pm

Update.
I have removed the motor, the bearings are almost seized. Too bad it is 600 volt, it would be simple to replace bearings.
So at present I am adapting another motor to fit this machine, and this one is 220 volt. Then I will be using my existing VFD on it.
I have been talking to tech support at Lagun with a guy named Carmen Morrow. He will gladly step you through the removal process and sent emailed instructions. It was such a real pleasure to speak with a well informed senior tech who knows those machines inside out and sideways.
And speaks clear English. When I told him I was putting a different motor on, he stepped me through things to watch for based on others experience, and didn't once try to sell me their parts.
I have a whole new level of respect for this company.

So here are some pictures of the motor, and it's replacement, and the welding required.
First picture is of the existing motor, it has a standard flange register, but has two exterior ears to mount it.
Second picture is the front motor flange that will fit the hole.
Third picture is milling some lugs for the new motor flange.
Then I welded them on to the motor flange, and set it up in the rotary table and drilled the holes in the new mounts.

EDIT...attaching pictures was a roaring success.
Attachments
DSC02591.JPG
test fit
Formal education will make you a living;
Self education will make you a fortune.- Jim Rohn

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas Edison

spro
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby spro » Wed Jun 14, 2017 10:59 pm

"attaching pictures was a roaring ..." Right then it was the lower motor case and the bearing came out with the armature but further work saw something different. I'll shut up and wait. I call this serious biz in order to get the motor frames aligned etc.
There is the possibility that you either machined the face frame to fit and it had a longer shaft or some way it worked. I already know it did but Man, was it long enough to fit the "Reeves" ? Wait, you were getting rid of that....

Ironman1
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby Ironman1 » Thu Jun 15, 2017 8:01 am

The face of the mill is machined and the register hole bored to 8.19" as it was manufactured. The motor I am working with has a C-face register of 8.19 inch. So I welded the ears on the outside as shown, which is used to hold the motor into the register of the head.
Now the motor shaft is already the correct length, but is 1.125" diameter, and it will be machined to 24 mm and have a threaded hole created in the end before that gets assembled.
Formal education will make you a living;
Self education will make you a fortune.- Jim Rohn

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas Edison

spro
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby spro » Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:38 pm

Great. Thanks for the update !

Ironman1
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby Ironman1 » Mon Jun 19, 2017 8:04 pm

Further progress is happening.
The motor shaft is exactly the right length, but too big, so I have machined it to 24mm.
I decided, just on general principles, to replace the front motor bearing, even though the existing one is fine. I also wanted a 2RS type instead of shielded.
So I checked the motor bell and it seems that at some time in it's past life, the motor bearing seized and spun in the housing, and wore it 10 thou oversize.

Not a big deal as it is still functional, but it would have bothered me. So KeithR talked me into this fix instead of laying in brass and boring it. Just bedding the bearing in loktite was also considered.
I bored out the casting and pushed a little dab of well tubing into it, and now am machining the bearing hole.
Attachments
DSC02593.JPG
DSC02599.JPG
DSC02600.JPG
Formal education will make you a living;
Self education will make you a fortune.- Jim Rohn

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas Edison

spro
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby spro » Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:04 pm

If this isn't cool, I don't what is. These are the things Ironman1. !

Harold_V
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby Harold_V » Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:03 am

Looking good, but one thing sends up a red flag for me.
If your 3 jaw runs true (rarely do they), you're fine, but if you have runout, that will manifest itself in the pulleys when the motor is assembled. Won't amount to much, but it's worth considering. You'd have been better served holding in a collet, or a four jaw, dialing in the shaft.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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BadDog
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby BadDog » Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:38 am

Not too long ago I had to turn down the shaft on my Powermatic Drill Press motor in order to press on a shaft extension prior to welding and turning down the shaft/weld to final (one of the repairs on the variable speed drive). I used a turned in place dead center on the spindle end. Very easy to make, and dead on within the accuracy of your spindle bearings regardless of any potential chuck or chuck mount issues. Basically a steel stub created from some convenient hunk of left over material. Turn a spigot on one end with a little bit of a shoulder so there is no risk of it pushing into the jaws. Flip it and grip on the stub, and the part remaining hanging out should be maybe twice the diameter of the bar at most. Then turn a 60* point on it to use as a dead center. Doesn't need to be hard especially fine finish as that end rotates with the part between centers. At the moment I use a short drop scrap from a 1.5" dia "sucker rod" (basically just common/cheap low carbon steel). Every time I put it in whatever chuck I have mounted, I just turn a skim cut to make sure the point is on size (often not even turning the entire point, just what I need. No swapping a chuck for center and dog driver (use chuck jaw to drive dog leg), no worry of off axis or run-out, and I can take it out and put it back as many times as I like. But I did use the big 4 jaw to locate the center in the new shaft extension by grabbing the armature and dialing the original shaft at several points and along the length. Once complete you couldn't see the weld, and the shaft turning in the motor housing had no appreciable run out, very pleased with the results. I would think that would have been a perfect solution for your size reduction and avoided having to fool with the steady.

And I'm very envious of your boring head. I've been looking for one for years, but I'm too cheap to pay what they always bring. Maybe one day I'll find a great deal on one. Until then, I'll just envy everyone that has one. :D
Russ
Master Floor Sweeper

Ironman1
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby Ironman1 » Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:04 am

Harold_V wrote:Looking good, but one thing sends up a red flag for me.
If your 3 jaw runs true (rarely do they), you're fine, but if you have runout, that will manifest itself in the pulleys when the motor is assembled. Won't amount to much, but it's worth considering. You'd have been better served holding in a collet, or a four jaw, dialing in the shaft.

H

This was a concern of mine as well. I have set up my chuck with a poor man's set-true, and I dialed in the shaft in the chuck before dialing the other end. I had thought to turn it beween centers, but one end has a 12mm male thread and the work end has a female 10mm thread, and I could see problems putting an accurate center in either way, so I dialed in the chuck instead.

Baddog, in my mind the Narex is one of the few tools out there that does everything right. It is a great pleasure to use.
Unfortunately they place a high value on quality, and now I need a CAT40 adapter, which is $500+ so I may have to make my own.
Formal education will make you a living;
Self education will make you a fortune.- Jim Rohn

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas Edison

spro
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby spro » Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:07 am

"make my own". Well part of it. I have some Sanvik tapping heads sitting around that I was thinking about selling. They are CATB #40 taper (QC knob comes off) but they are fairly long~ can't say the #40 turns into the size you need.

Ironman1
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby Ironman1 » Tue Jun 20, 2017 5:48 pm

spro wrote:"make my own". Well part of it. I have some Sanvik tapping heads sitting around that I was thinking about selling. They are CATB #40 taper (QC knob comes off) but they are fairly long~ can't say the #40 turns into the size you need.


How much for one? I would have to weld a plate onto it and drill for the bolt pattern for the boring head. That would get the 40 taper out of the way and simplify things.
Formal education will make you a living;
Self education will make you a fortune.- Jim Rohn

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." Thomas Edison

spro
Posts: 6321
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:04 pm
Location: mid atlantic

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Postby spro » Wed Jun 21, 2017 3:05 am

Having looked closer (again) at these Sandvik and Valenite tapping heads, it doesn't make sense to sell them to less than their intended purpose. Hold on now. I thought at least one had a detachable arbor and I was wrong about that. The #40 taper and main shaft are turned and ground together. It is so hard, as Swedes know, a bear to cut plus there is a lot going on at the head.
It was stupid of me to even post about them here. BIG However! Number 40 taper is used by so many horizontal milling machines that chances are ripe. There are bent arbors and no bones about it. The taper is fine as is the arbor 1-2" and it isn't hardened steel as the tapping heads.


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