New mill, need drawbar

[big_i11580]

Hi

I got a sharp lmv mill on an auction for $600. It used to have a power drawbar on it, but no longer does. The existing drawbar is there but is a spline top. I would like to just have a hex top for a wrench. Problem is it uses nmtb 30 tooling and has a 1/2-13 thread on the bottom. Any idea where to get one?

Big

BTW the mill as mentioned uses nmtb 30 tooling. It had a milltronis partner 1 cnc setup. Ball screws are in great shape. It's a 10x50 bed with boxed ways. It has way covers on front and back, hence the ways are beautiful and has a 1 shot lube setup. The head is a 3hp with a variable speed drive. Looks like the electronics went out and it was mithballed in the back. Not bad for $600

[SteveHGraham]

I somehow snapped the shear pin on my drawbar and had to get a new one. I don't recall, but I think I got it on Ebay. Anyway, they're all over the place. Not too expensive.

The prices vary a lot, for bars that seem functionally identical.

My mill is a Chaiwan 9 x 49, and if memory serves, the bar I got was an Acer. Works fine. I wish I hadn't bought it, because it turned out the shear pin was easy to replace.

Here is one example. Don't know if it will work for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STEEL-MACHINE-D ... 4cf6a3bd96

[Harold_V]

Ball screws are in great shape.

I'd be interested in hearing how they work out for you without a motor to hold location. Ball screws, as a general rule, are not very desirable on manual machines for that reason. I admit, having virtually no backlash is a positive thing, though. If the screws aren't worn, you should be able to rely on dial setting in either direction without concern.

Harold

[spro]

I wonder if there are all the dials.

[GlennW]

Is there a reason that you can't hex the drawbar that you have?

Or better yet:

Kurt makes the power drawbar systems for most of the mills. You could just buy the socket to fit yours from Kurt as they use a 3/8" air impact to drive the drawbar.

It's $15.00 and should fit on a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar.

http://www.kurtworkholding.com/automati ... -l-en.html

Here's the link if you need other parts for it.

http://www.kurtworkholding.com/power-dr ... -l-en.html

[big_i11580]

"Is there a reason that you can't hex the drawbar that you have?"

It's a spline top and it only sticks up about 1" over the top of the head.

"Kurt makes the power drawbar systems for most of the mills. You could just buy the socket to fit yours from Kurt as they use a 3/8" air impact to drive the drawbar."

Going to call them today. Probably the cheapest and easiest option.

"I wonder if there are all the dials."

Missing the X dial and lock nut. already got them.

"I'd be interested in hearing how they work out for you without a motor to hold location. Ball screws, as a general rule, are not very desirable on manual machines for that reason. I admit, having virtually no backlash is a positive thing, though. If the screws aren't worn, you should be able to rely on dial setting in either direction without concern."

I've used several machines at work that were Sharps with AccuPwr CNC controls. They allowed use of the hand wheels as well as the cnc. Held just fine, Never noticed any issues. Once I have the dial put on and clean up the threads for the nut I'm going to check how much if any backlash there is.

I've checked Ebay and everywhere else. Yes you can get replacement drawbars for cheap, however mine uses a 1/2-13 thread since it uses NMTB 30 tooling.

I'll keep everyone posted. Maybe even put a picture up.

[big_i11580]

So I bought the socket for the top of the drawbar for $15 from Kurt. Many of the components from the old Kurt Power Mechanical drawbar are there except the cover, the little aluminum bracket that sticks up and activates the switch and the air impact. I figured they got scavenged to keep the other 3 machines they had running. I picked up a butterfly impact from Harbor freight for $20 that should fit and bought the aluminum bracket for $32 from Kurt. I had to meet the $25 minimum order from Kurt anyway so I figured for $22 more than the minimum I have the bracket already made. No shipping because Kurt is just down the road in Minnesota. As long as the impact fits I have about a $600 power drawbar setup for my $600 mill for about $65. Not bad. Attached is a photo of the mill. I've already begun stripping all the controls off the mill, all that's left is the arm and the electrical cabinet. I'll keep the arm and take the cabinet off. I will leave the motors on. May end up using them in the future, who knows. Also attached is the South Bend 13" Lathe I got for $600. It doesn't have hardened ways, there is some wear on the ways close to the chuck but life goes on. It came with a 3 jaw, 4 jaw independent, face plate, taper attachment and a collet closer. I still need to get both the mill and lathe off the skids and onto some rests but I'm getting there.