Any thoughts on what this mill might be or is it a mill.

[randallc]

Bought this from a fellow the other day, cheap $200.00, to attempt to learn a little bit about milling. It is a 3/4 size I suspect but the door is off and I guess that is where the name was. It does have a Model 6 on it and a Jack and Heinz plate on the table.
I have looked at hundreds of old machine photos and it might look like a knockoff of a small Cincinnati.
Someone has obviously parted some of it out and replaced the head with a DC variable speed motor. But the table, saddle, and knee work and the head lowers. A dial indicator can give the travel.
Trying to figure out what kind of tool holder I need. The opening in the spindle starts at .556 goes 1.334 deep and is .543, then to .434 for the upper part of the shaft. Very light duty set up but would like to get a tool holder or collet holder and collets to hold a few end mills.

Any help would be great.

[Carm]

If it was originally a mill, probably a specific purpose machine from a manufacturing plant and not a jobber. Not sure why it has a split head but no quill.
If it has a hollow spindle for a drawbar, you could use it for light milling. Sure ain't a sensitive drill press.
I didn't figure out the taper, but it's sticky, not "self-releasing".

[randallc]

Yes that is probably right. And would be a reason I can't find an image.
It does have a drawbar which I have attached to the chuck mandrel.
Taper is very close to the #2 Jacobs taper best I can tell. Don't know of any holder that uses that taper.
What about a straight shaft. Would drawbar keep it from spinning or would it need a set screw. Someone has put to set screws in the spindle.
Thanks for your time
Randall

[SteveM]

Seems to me you could mount a Bridgeport M head to that. You'd have to make an adapter plate.

Not stout enough for serious metal removal, but could be a capable machine in a small space.

Steve

[eeler1]

Frankenmill.

[Carm]

"What about a straight shaft. Would drawbar keep it from spinning or would it need a set screw. Someone has put to set screws in the spindle."

Randall, I don't understand you, maybe try again.
A straight shaft toolholder needs something like a collet to grab it. The drawbar pulls the tapers together and keeps side loading from releasing the taper regardless of rotation CW/CCW.
What do you mean, set screws in the spindle? Do you mean to engage a key slot, like the R8 system? Or do they engage in notches in the tool shank? That's a last ditch effort to keep the tool in the spindle.
$200 sounds like maybe a fun little project. Tell us more about the spindle.

[randallc]

Carm. The reason you don't understand me, is I don't really know what I am talking. This is my first attempt on any kind of mill.
I do some minor work on a small lathe and wood lathe but would like to do some light milling I think.
Don't know anything about collets other that what I have been looking up on internet. No real experience.
The head may not even be from a mill.

Spindle and motor

Turned horizontal

[randallc]

Made a mandrel to fit the chuck may have missed it a bit.

If this ever had a mill head on it might be worth checking out. I guess a "M" head is for a 3/4 mill or maybe 1/2 mill.

[SteveM]

Can you measure the open end of the spindle?

While that can't get us an exact match (you would need to measure at two places a known distance apart), it might help to narrow it down.

Steve

[Carm]

Randall
If you want to use that head for light milling, you'll have to do some things to adapt.
Although it would be possible to mount a B.port style head I'd have concerns about the existing structure supporting it in a usable way.
I cannot recommend using a drill chuck to hold end mills and there are many reasons for that. Apart from hazards to personal safety, accurate work cannot be produced. Three point contact is insufficient to resist anything but most thrust loads from drilling. The helix of end mills will cause them to screw into the work and change position.

We need an accurate measurement of your spindle taper, as Steve said, over a known distance. If your chuck mandrel, as you call it, blued up better that would be pretty close.
The taper numbers given in your first post resemble nothing I know. Does the portion of the spindle that has the set screws attached remove from the collared portion that contains it? Gentle pulling or tapping might reveal.
Please measure the OD of the spindle, and the distance to the first bearing, if you can, from the nose, that is, where the tool is inserted.

P.S. I'm not a fan of keeping magnets near machine tools

[SteveM]

I was thinking about how you could measure the taper with simple instruments and came up with this:

Measure the diameter at the opening.

Take a steel ruler that will fit into the spindle and stop at some distance into the spindle. Measure the width of the ruler (technically, you would need to measure across the width from the front side to the back side, as the diagonal of the end of the ruler is what will be used).

Stick the ruler in, keep it centered and see what it reads right at the opening.

The end diameter, the distance where the ruler stops and the diameter at that distance are all you need to calculate a taper.

Steve

[randallc]

Three more pictures: And many thanks for the responses. No more magnet on the machine and no more attempts to use the chuck for milling. Maybe a unusual drill press.
I don't have to use it as a mill since I've never had a mill and I have an old decent drill press. Just thought I would try it but not anxious to break things including myself.
Couple more pictures. I have measured the entrance with a caliper at .554 and and it extends up the spindle for 1.360 inches and before the small "bridge" and using the two leg inside calipers the best I can I get a measurement of .547, then after the reduction in the shaft, .437 to the top. The overall spindle is 10 inches.

Best drawing I can come up with,

The holder of the spindle

Another look at the spindle. Wouldn't have any idea how to get it apart.

Down loaded a chart of tapers from little machine shop and the two closest I can see is : Is Brown and Sharp Taper # 5, at large end .5388 and small end .4500, length 2.13.
And a Jacobs Taper # 2 at .5590 large end and .4876 small end and .88 length. But neither is fits.
That is why I was asking about a straight shaft Er 20 holder to be held with a drawbar but not sure one is even made at 1/2 and inch or less. Seems like 3/4 would be the smallest.

Anyway thanks much guys. Best welcome a person can get is getting help from folks. This one might just be a porch ornament though.