vises ?
vises ?
Hello,
Just curious if anyone has a Shars vise and if so, how well do you like it.
I have four 6" Kurts and one 5" Kurt. I prefer the 5" and wish I had another one. And I'm also looking for two 4" vises. Why? The 6" ones are getting a little heavy and most of the pcs I make are small. I'd like to get two 4" vises and set both of them up in line with about 2-3 inches between them. This way I can either run a setup in each vise or can run longer parts using both. But the prices for the Kurt 4" and 5" ones are more than the 6" ones. So I was wondering how well the Shars ones were.
Thanks
Harry
Just curious if anyone has a Shars vise and if so, how well do you like it.
I have four 6" Kurts and one 5" Kurt. I prefer the 5" and wish I had another one. And I'm also looking for two 4" vises. Why? The 6" ones are getting a little heavy and most of the pcs I make are small. I'd like to get two 4" vises and set both of them up in line with about 2-3 inches between them. This way I can either run a setup in each vise or can run longer parts using both. But the prices for the Kurt 4" and 5" ones are more than the 6" ones. So I was wondering how well the Shars ones were.
Thanks
Harry
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- Posts: 2366
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- Location: Phoenix ,AZ
Re: vises ?
If you are use to using a Kurt you will not like ANY of the Chinese vises.No experance with the Shars but with other eastern vises good one way boat anchors.
www.chaski.com
Re: vises ?
John Evans wrote:If you are use to using a Kurt you will not like ANY of the Chinese vises.No experance with the Shars but with other eastern vises good one way boat anchors.
That's what I was afraid of. I've only purchased a handful of Chinese stuff. Parallels, 1-2-3 blocks and a clamp set for the mill. The clamp set went to the scrap bin after a week. I still use the other stuff.
Re: vises ?
hwboivin3 wrote:Hello,
Just curious if anyone has a Shars vise and if so, how well do you like it.
I have four 6" Kurts and one 5" Kurt. I prefer the 5" and wish I had another one. And I'm also looking for two 4" vises. Why? The 6" ones are getting a little heavy and most of the pcs I make are small. I'd like to get two 4" vises and set both of them up in line with about 2-3 inches between them. This way I can either run a setup in each vise or can run longer parts using both. But the prices for the Kurt 4" and 5" ones are more than the 6" ones. So I was wondering how well the Shars ones were.
Thanks
Harry
I have a Shars 4". When I tighten the jaws, the pressure is not equal across the 4" and one side is always a bit looser. I could probably put some paint on the back of the jaws, heavier on the loose end, to take up the slack.
It's close, but no cigar.
- warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: vises ?
I don't have a Shar's, but I do have an Enco.
I finally spent a day cleaning, grinding, polishing, and a bit of milling, and it's acceptable for most work.
But it ain't no Kurt.
In all hindsight....I'd a bought the Kurt at the get go..... and skipped the knock-off.
Some things (most) are worth the money.
Bill
I finally spent a day cleaning, grinding, polishing, and a bit of milling, and it's acceptable for most work.
But it ain't no Kurt.
In all hindsight....I'd a bought the Kurt at the get go..... and skipped the knock-off.
Some things (most) are worth the money.
Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
Re: vises ?
I bought import parallel clamps and the knurled screw heads were just pressed on. Any clamping force will press them back off. I knurled the shaft and pressed them back on with some JB weld.
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
Re: vises ?
If you have a file with parallel sides, you could wrap cloth around the top to act as a handle, close the vise without the jaws lightly on the handle and then pull. It will remove metal mostly from the tight side.toddalin wrote:I have a Shars 4". When I tighten the jaws, the pressure is not equal across the 4" and one side is always a bit looser. I could probably put some paint on the back of the jaws, heavier on the loose end, to take up the slack.
Not sure what kind of precision you will get with that method, but I can tell you it worked wonders on a bench vise.
Steve
Re: vises ?
Harry, check Kurt's Scratch & Dent page. I know it is still but pricey, but....
My Chinese vise has gone to the scrap bin long ago and I only used it once!
http://www.kurtworkholding.com/manual-v ... -l-en.html
Jim B
My Chinese vise has gone to the scrap bin long ago and I only used it once!
http://www.kurtworkholding.com/manual-v ... -l-en.html
Jim B
- liveaboard
- Posts: 1981
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: southern Portugal
- Contact:
Re: vises ?
I've lived my life with just a few vices...
What? Oh, you're discussing Vises.
Never mind then.
What? Oh, you're discussing Vises.
Never mind then.
Re: vises ?
What's all this I hear about people wanting more vices! Vices are bad. Why would you want more vises?liveaboard wrote:I've lived my life with just a few vices...
What? Oh, you're discussing Vises.
Never mind then.
The editorial was about vises, not vices.
Oh, that's different.
Re: vises ?
Not a bad idea.SteveM wrote:If you have a file with parallel sides, you could wrap cloth around the top to act as a handle, close the vise without the jaws lightly on the handle and then pull. It will remove metal mostly from the tight side.toddalin wrote:I have a Shars 4". When I tighten the jaws, the pressure is not equal across the 4" and one side is always a bit looser. I could probably put some paint on the back of the jaws, heavier on the loose end, to take up the slack.
Not sure what kind of precision you will get with that method, but I can tell you it worked wonders on a bench vise.
Steve
Re: vises ?
While we are on "cheap vises."
I was milling a thick sheet of brass (on edge) held in the Shars, and as the mill proceeded over the brass, it caused the excess sheet material to "curl back" on itself. This curling brass then found its way down to the vice jaws and actually cut into the jaw metal taking some away and roughening it up. (I smoothed it with a file, but the slight damage is there.)
I didn't strike the jaws with the tool (very close) because the tool was above the jaws past this area.
Can the Shars jaws be so soft that brass can cut into them???
I was milling a thick sheet of brass (on edge) held in the Shars, and as the mill proceeded over the brass, it caused the excess sheet material to "curl back" on itself. This curling brass then found its way down to the vice jaws and actually cut into the jaw metal taking some away and roughening it up. (I smoothed it with a file, but the slight damage is there.)
I didn't strike the jaws with the tool (very close) because the tool was above the jaws past this area.
Can the Shars jaws be so soft that brass can cut into them???