Bridgeport T head

[Bob D.]

I just picked up what looks like a virgin Bridgeport Cherrying head. Always wanted to mess with one ever since seeing it in a parts book. Not knowing anyone who has seen one much less operated one I am on my own learning how to set it up.
I do have a Bridgeport manual that gives the basics on what does what. I suppose some trial and error torturing blocks of wood will give me some clues on set up results.
So have any of you run one of these doing die or mold work? Any old publications out there for set up specifics and what can be accomplished?
Being able to mill concave, convex, conical pockets without cnc seems pretty neat. Combined with a rotary table opens up more possibilities I imagine.
Not sure what type of tooling is used. I suppose ball endmills are commonly used. I saw reference to
"Typical die sinking tooling" but the picture wasn't clear, looked like a tapered endmill with possibly a ball end.
So, do any of you have any insights for me or a direction to look for more information on operation of a cherrying head?

Thanks,
Bob D.

[SteveM]

Have you tried searching Youtube for videos?

Steve

[Bob D.]

Isn't much on youtube or coming up in other searches. One video of someone just aimlessly cranking one thru the motions.
I would have thought that Bridgeport would have had a booklet 'How to use your new Cherrying Head" that explained putting to use their product.
There must be reference material somewhere.......

Bob D.

[Carm]

Any configuration of EM shape is OK, but diameter should be under 1/2" if you hog. Some B'ports won't have the RPM you want.
You need lots of paper to keep track of your moves, a tick sheet, unless the job is simple and your mind is not.
Your imagination is the limit, but of course you have to learn the head's limits first. Wish I could give more info.
Yes a rotary table expands abilities greatly.

[spro]

B3 collets are expensive but I hope you get it going and do good work with it.

[BadDog]

Congrats!

I have no practical need for it, but I always wanted one. So I've been on the lookout around here, but no luck at ALL. I'm mean not one.

Not the same thing, but I've also kept an eye out for an old Rotary head K&T or the like. The best I could do was a Volstro rotary head. Woefully under size and power (and rigidity) for what I want to do. 3/8" is really pushing it's limit if your not working plastic. More like 1/4" being the limit. But I did get a cross slide 12" Troyke, which doesn't dip and bob but does manage to do most of what I actually need.

It seems that by the time Phoenix got serious about machine work things were already getting focused on (C)NC. We do have some big shops now, and certain categories of machines are relatively available, but not stuff like that. That stuff seems only to be found back East or in the Rust Belt, and I never could justify purchase + shipping. Same reason I don't have something like a full featured Universal 16"+ shaper like the G&E (etc). Love 'em, but just can't have one...

[Bob D.]

Russ,
I scored a beautiful complete Volstro rotary head set up off CL a few years ago and use it quite often. Pretty slick device. I find it much faster to set up than a rotary table and much more interesting to watch run. Not intended for massive material removal but it does it's intended job well.
I have a M head mounted on the back of my ram now. Thought the Cherrying head would go right on but a different tail adapter is required. Has the same mount as a J head even though it is a M head.
Bolted it to an angle plate just so I could monkey with it on a bench. I don't think it has ever been powered up. The sheaves haven't even been polished by the belt. I always liked the M heads because they run so quiet.
I think my first project with it will be some large scale poling pockets for a new loco I'm building.

Bob

[BadDog]

As is so often the case, it may simply be my ignorance, or my ham handedness, or impatience; more likely all the above. But running a sharp 3/8" HSS EM in aluminum to produce a minimally complicated part (8 pool cue angle locked holder from 1/2" 6061-T6 plate) proved problematic on my little Volstro. Chatter was a constant battle. I didn't really even need the Volstro for the project, but it seemed a good learning piece to use it making the multiple axis radius and blend cuts. Switching to 1/4" and running it at the top limit got the project done, but wasn't a positive experience, and a spent a good deal of time filing/sanding out the chatter marks in the areas not ultimately covered by felt. It wasn't in any way worth setting up the power feed mechanism for the multi-axis short arc piece, and the little dials don't lend themselves to smooth feed (for me anyway). Felt a bit like I was running a 6" Atlas or Craftsman lathe.

Since then it's sat in it's case. I'll use it again when/if I get something I feel that requires it, but most of my stuff is easily done with a traditional mill head, or at most the cross slide rotary table. And I find the cross slide rotary so easy/fast to setup, the Volstro just gathers dust. But it does seem a very fine little machine, just very light weight.

Anyway, I look forward to your experience with the T head. Maybe one day I will find one. Until then, a slotting head lives on the back of my 2J ram.

[spro]

We haven't fully explored the "T" head yet. I was thinking it didn't use the "M" head mount but would use the "E" slotting head mounting at the tongue. The width of the J head and E head are 7 1/2" at the indexed face. So it is the same fixture as the slotting head. Good luck on that.

[BadDog]

My expectation as well.

[Bob D.]

The correct tail end adapter for my Cherrying head is on its way! Should be able to cut some radius passes this weekend. Guess it helps to be in New England where there is such a history of machine shops.
Bob D.