Newbie With "New" Old Mill Drill
Re: Newbie With "New" Old Mill Drill
The situation did compel me to look for another reason why the arbor was stuck fast. Then it appears to be a collet. Why is a chuck shaft in a collet being pried out when the drawbar is loose? It had been pounded and then it comes to another possibility. That cosmoline, stuff acted as glue.
Re: Newbie With "New" Old Mill Drill
If there were a properly lighted picture of the end of the adapter/collet closest to the chuck, then the rest of us could be more sure of what it is.
Perhaps a 'gentle' heating with a heat gun would soften things up a bit so the chuck can be removed.
--earlgo
Perhaps a 'gentle' heating with a heat gun would soften things up a bit so the chuck can be removed.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
Re: Newbie With "New" Old Mill Drill
Got it ! It is an arbor. I expanded the pic further to see the serrations were actually the shadow of the flash, against the white paper. I was fooled by that again 
Now I remember that the very same chuck/ arbor came with my round column M/D. It wasn't the best chuck and I did make an attempt to remove it but it really on there.
Now I remember that the very same chuck/ arbor came with my round column M/D. It wasn't the best chuck and I did make an attempt to remove it but it really on there.
Re: Newbie With "New" Old Mill Drill
Yes, I have that same setup for my RF-30. I once thought of removing that chuck for something better. It's a package bag so I just use my Albrecht with a 3/4" straight shank. The old chuck remains for abusing.
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
Re: Newbie With "New" Old Mill Drill
For drill chucks even the R8 ones they mostly seem to be called drill chuck arbors in my tool catalogs. Personaly I think tool shank works just as well and is understood by most. ER collet chucks in R8 are usually not mentioned as it having an R8 arbor. My R8 boring heads usually are mentioned as having R8 shanks. But maybe Narex B&F head shanks should be spelled $hanks. 
Susan there's many forums including probably this one that will have multiple threads about working around that round column issue when you have to move the head. Some more complex than others, but there are ways around the problem. You might try moving the chuck jaws to the fully open position on that drill chuck and then double check there's not also a screw holding the chuck to the taper. That would be fairly uncommon for mill arbors but not impossible. If it did have one, then without removing it first you'd never get the chuck off the taper. Some will also locktite the jacobs taper to the drill chuck. Then you need almost enough heat to break the bond to melt the chucks lubricating grease out of it. Check for a thin line of cured adhesive where the jacobs taper meets the body of the chuck. It might be red, green or even blue in color.
If you ever have to really pound on the end of the drawbar to get the tooling to release it's far better to build up some blocking on the mills table and on either side of the tooling against the bottom of the mills spindle to support it. Slightly lower the spindle until it's fully seated against that blocking. That helps to isolate the spindle bearings from the shock loads and it can take very little of that to start damaging them. A properly tensioned R8 drawbar should only take a couple of turns to loosen it and a fairly light hit on the end of the drawbar to get the tool to release from the spindle taper or an R8 collet to release the tool. Wrap anything like a sharp end mill with a rag so you can hold it without getting cut because it will drop out of a collet as soon as you tap on the draw bar.
Susan there's many forums including probably this one that will have multiple threads about working around that round column issue when you have to move the head. Some more complex than others, but there are ways around the problem. You might try moving the chuck jaws to the fully open position on that drill chuck and then double check there's not also a screw holding the chuck to the taper. That would be fairly uncommon for mill arbors but not impossible. If it did have one, then without removing it first you'd never get the chuck off the taper. Some will also locktite the jacobs taper to the drill chuck. Then you need almost enough heat to break the bond to melt the chucks lubricating grease out of it. Check for a thin line of cured adhesive where the jacobs taper meets the body of the chuck. It might be red, green or even blue in color.
If you ever have to really pound on the end of the drawbar to get the tooling to release it's far better to build up some blocking on the mills table and on either side of the tooling against the bottom of the mills spindle to support it. Slightly lower the spindle until it's fully seated against that blocking. That helps to isolate the spindle bearings from the shock loads and it can take very little of that to start damaging them. A properly tensioned R8 drawbar should only take a couple of turns to loosen it and a fairly light hit on the end of the drawbar to get the tool to release from the spindle taper or an R8 collet to release the tool. Wrap anything like a sharp end mill with a rag so you can hold it without getting cut because it will drop out of a collet as soon as you tap on the draw bar.