Its Up and Running

Discussion on all milling machines vertical & horizontal, including but not limited to Bridgeports, Hardinge, South Bend, Clausing, Van Norman, including imports.

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platypus20
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Location: camillus, ny (syracuse)

Its Up and Running

Post by platypus20 »

With a couple of friends (Norm and Trombone Pete), I finally got the new to me Rockwell 21-100 milling machine, into the shop (akin to shoveling 5# of crap into a 3# bag). We had to move 2 welders, 3 tool boxes, a plasma cutter, a bandsaw and numerous buckets of all kinds of stuff (I'm cleaning out my late FIL's shop). After shoehorning the mill into the shop, I got it permanently wired up, trammed the head and the vise. Hopefully it will actually cuts some chips in the morning.

The ER 32 x R8 collet chuck, I got, has a .008" run out, so I made arrangements to have a new on here ASAP (hopefully Friday). I'm also digging out a set of R8 collets, from the stockpile. I'm still not happy with the height of the mill, still working on a base design.The new drawbar seems to work fine.

I have to put a 1/4" keyway in a 1" shaft, it seems like a test for the new mill.
jack
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BadDog
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by BadDog »

Good luck. Not sure if this is old news to you, but don't do like I did the first time I needed a 1/4" slot, and use a 1/4" EM. That did not have a good outcome and resulted in a rough chewed up slot wider than 1/4".
Russ
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John Evans
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by John Evans »

I find a 2 flute mill works better slotting than a 4 flute. Big thing is keeping the chips clear of the slot as recutting will cause a OS slot. As Russ says cut a 3/16 centered slot then step over each way to get slot on size.
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Harold_V
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by Harold_V »

platypus20 wrote:I have to put a 1/4" keyway in a 1" shaft, it seems like a test for the new mill.
I've noted the comments about end mill choices.
If you hope to machine a slot that's on size, your best possible choice is to use a Woodruff cutter, assuming the resulting radius isn't a problem.

If you must use an end mill, there are those made for the purpose. They are the best choice, as they limit deflection. They're normally two flute, with short flutes, and are known as key slot cutters.

Harold
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BadDog
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by BadDog »

Another option would be a stub arbor with a standard milling cutter (I've also seen them called a slotting saw) like commonly used on horizontal mills rather than end mill. But that complicates work holding on a vertical mill, generally requiring something other than just putting it in a vise.
Russ
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platypus20
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by platypus20 »

Since my last post, I've been busy with the Rockwell milling machine. I changed out a bad bearing in the transmission (Graingers replaced no questions asked), I installed a different drive sheave/pulley, installed 2 new LED lights and raised the mill up 4".


1 - the mill in place
2 - the 4" x 4" x 1/4" box tubing, to raise up the mill
3 - the lights, bracket attached to the "transmission"
4 - bottom of the quill is now 57" off the floor
rockwell 3 002x.jpg
rockwell 3 005x.jpg
rockwell 3 008x.jpg
rockwell 3 011x.jpg
jack
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platypus20
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by platypus20 »

5 - the new speed chart
6 - the Rockwell, the Franken-Drill and the modified HF 20" drill press (also raised 4") nested together
rockwell 4 004x.jpg
rockwell 4 006x.jpg
jack
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platypus20
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by platypus20 »

The comment, that the lights were new, is a slight lie, I'm in the process of cleaning out the rest of the late FIL's shop and barn (MIL is selling the house after 53 years), I stole the flexible goose-neck lights from the shop, threw about 90% of the light assembly away, the base, switches, wiring and bulb sockets, hit the trash. I made a new mounting bracket, installed all new wiring, sockets and plugs, basically kept the goose-necks and the shades. That and some new super bright LED spot lights, I can now actually see the work area on the mill.
jack
Cary Stewart
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by Cary Stewart »

Interesting that you mounted the motor on the ram. A friend of mine purchased a Millright new in the late 1960s with out a motor. He built a similar set of sheeves but hung the motor on the back of the adapter assembly. I had thought of buying it but he wanted over twice the new price, something over $850.00, for a 30 year old mill that was somewhat worn. It was a used machine with worn ways although it was will kept. He did lots of work on it. I passed and he later sold it for about $1400.00. I often wondered how much weight he had hanging on the bake of the ram.
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Cary Stewart
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by Cary Stewart »

Oh ya. His set up gave him 25 speeds of which he had a chart. The chart warned that you could not use the highest speed as he had the standard bearing set.
Cary
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by spro »

Congratulations on the successful move into your shop. Neat work and more, considering all that was going on. :D
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platypus20
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Re: Its Up and Running

Post by platypus20 »

I had to reconsider the 4" box tubing, under the mill, while raising the mill up, it also gave me some leveling issues. After about 1-2 hours of shimming and cursing, I decided to add leveling feet to the mill.

So last night, I installed some leveling feet (from a source I can not remember) under the front cross brace and a some tubing of the same height, under the back, it was a lot better, but because of the floor condition, there was still some shimming needed.

This morning I ventured out to the industrial supplier, and picked up some hardware to manufacture some back leveling feet.

2 - 4-1/2" of 1-1/4" B-7 Hardened all-thread
4 - 1-1/4"-7 2H heavy nuts
4 - 1-1/4"-7 jam nuts
2 - 1-1/8" flat washers
2 - 1-5/8" flat washers
4 - 1"-8 2H heavy nuts
4 - 1"-8 jam nuts


Welded a 1-1/4" 2H heavy nut and a 1-5/8" flat washer on the end the 2 pieces of all-thread. I then after the welding, put the pieces in the lathe and cut the bottoms of the piece, flat. Then assembled them, the welded piece, a jam nut and a flat washer.

Using the Jet toe-jack, lifted the back of the mill, removed the back cross tube, drilled 2, 1-1/4" holes in the bottom of the tube. The using the fabbed piece, put a 1-1/4" 2H nut inside the tube clamping the nut down tight and then welded it in place. After it cooled down, installed both fabbed feet in the box tubing and reinstalled it in the mill.

I went to the front of the mill, raised it up and removed the front cross tube. Removed the acquired leveling feet, with 1"-8 thread, then welded 2 of the 1" 2H heavy nuts inside the tube, making the leveling procedure easier. Reassembled the front leveling feet and the cross tube assembly and reinstalled it under the mill.

Then leveled the mill, side to side and front to back, it is now level, and rock solid, this added an addition 2" to the height of the mill, putting the bottom of the quill at 59" off the floor, but with the ER32 x R8 collet chuck, thats on the UPS truck for delivery, today, with stick out ~2" from the bottom of the quill, bringing it back down to about 56"-57", which I think is just about right.

1 - the hardware
2 - the fabbed piece
3 - in the tube
4 - ready to go under
rockwell 5 001x.jpg
rockwell 5 006x.jpg
rockwell 5 009x.jpg
rockwell 5 012x.jpg
jack
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