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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:16 am
Posts: 39
Location: Oakland CA
Glenn Wegman wrote:
Try Zep Citrus Cleaner in the trigger spray bottle.


OK Martha Stewart! :wink:

Shaggy


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:10 pm 
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Location: Florida
Huh?

I've NEVER been to prison... :)

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Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2010 6:29 am
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Location: DFW Texas
I can tell you what I would do, and what I did with my SB9 last summer:

I bought a gallon of WD40 and a trigger sprayer.

Loaded up the lathe and went down to the coin-op car wash. I pressure-washed that thing everywhere I could reach.

Quick trip home. Air nozzle to remove most of the water.

Then I applied WD40 generously, aided by a stiff brush or three, some gray scotchbrite, and the occasional rag.

Cleaned up great, no re-paint required.

I did this with my Centex/Rockwell mill last month, major pieces only as it wasn't as dirty.
base, column, knee (you would not believe all the muddobber nests!), table


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:16 am
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Location: Oakland CA
Good news - the varnish-like gunk seems to be shellac, and completely dissolves in cheap rubbing alcohol (WD40 or mineral spirits won't touch it). I've got a lot of it to clean off, but it looks like being a relatively quick process once underway, and and not too stinky :mrgreen:

cheers
Shaggy


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:52 pm 
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Location: N.S. Canada
Let the WD-40 do for you what you want, but get it "off" before you go on.
The "water displacing" properties attract H2O and then some of the solvents/evaporators evaporate and leave the water on the clean "anxious to rust" surfaces.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:00 pm 
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Location: Oakland CA
stevec wrote:
Let the WD-40 do for you what you want, but get it "off" before you go on.
The "water displacing" properties attract H2O and then some of the solvents/evaporators evaporate and leave the water on the clean "anxious to rust" surfaces.


huh? Alcohol is the solvent. As I said, WD40 won't touch the gunk (shellac), which is spirit-based. Rubbing alcohol has a certain amount of water in it, so the bare metal needs oil. WD40 works just fine as a short-term rust deterrent.

Don't worry, I've got a few brain cells left despite 40 years of breathing solvent fumes and bathing in parts washing tanks :mrgreen:

cheers
Shaggy


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Posts: 11832
Location: Onalaska, WA USA
shaggy wrote:
WD40 works just fine as a short-term rust deterrent.

I agree, and don't understand how it has earned a reputation for not serving in that capacity. I've used it enough to know that when it evaporates, it leaves behind a film of what I would best describe as paraffin. I had to leave my Wells A7 saw in our pump shed while building. It started to rust, but was controlled to my satisfaction by spraying with WD-40. Nice part is, it's easy to clean up. A new application and a wipe with a cloth and it's pretty much gone.

Nice discovery on the alcohol solvent! From your description I would have never suspected shellac. Things shoud clean up like new!

Harold

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:06 pm 
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Location: DFW Texas
I left off the last step, which was the liberal application of specified lubricants to the overflow point, wiped down with a clean shop rag.
No WD40 left in place.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:45 pm 
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Location: Oakland CA
Harold_V wrote:
shaggy wrote:
WD40 works just fine as a short-term rust deterrent.

I agree, and don't understand how it has earned a reputation for not serving in that capacity. I've used it enough to know that when it evaporates, it leaves behind a film of what I would best describe as paraffin. I had to leave my Wells A7 saw in our pump shed while building. It started to rust, but was controlled to my satisfaction by spraying with WD-40. Nice part is, it's easy to clean up. A new application and a wipe with a cloth and it's pretty much gone.

Nice discovery on the alcohol solvent! From your description I would have never suspected shellac. Things shoud clean up like new!

Harold



Harold - The one-man shop where the mill and lathe came from made reproduction Renaissance wind instruments during the 1970s. From looking around what remained of the shop, I gathered the SB was used to bore the long hardwood cylinders with shop-made gun drills and contour the outside profiles of the cylinders using a compound-mounted hydraulic tracer.
So I could understand why there was wood dust all over the machinery, seemingly mixed with old oil and solidified into what looked like a 'varnish'.
But until a moment ago I couldn't think what process would call for using shellac in and about the lathe... Then the penny dropped - holy cow, the guy was doing French-polishing on the wooden parts while spinning them in the lathe :roll: No wonder the un-Godly mess :evil:

But then why is it all over the milling machine as well? :?

Shaggy


Last edited by shaggy on Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:43 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:51 pm 
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Location: Onalaska, WA USA
shaggy wrote:
But then why is it all over the milling machine as well? :?

Sloppy work habits? :lol:

Any internal polishing, where they may have spun a tool?

Harold

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:16 am
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Location: Oakland CA
Anyway, just to end this topic...

Thanks to all who offered advice of any sort, now that the Rockwell has been successfully moved and I can rest my back. :D

Shaggy


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:04 pm
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Location: mid atlantic
The topic isn't quite closed as to spontaneous combustion. Shellac was one suspicion and another is linseed oil. It is generally accepted that Any metal wool or shop towels in contact with both alcohol and these type finshers are prone to combustion. A fire-proof recepticle, preferably outdoors, is the way to go. Look it up.


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