Worth it to Get Collets for Drilling?

[SteveHGraham]

I don't like my mill's built-in power feed all that much. If I use it to feed downward, I really have to be fast to keep it from boring into the vise, and stopping it at the bottom before reversing feed is usually a big FAIL. I never thought of using a knee feed.

[GlennW]

I don't like my mill's built-in power feed all that much. If I use it to feed downward, I really have to be fast to keep it from boring into the vise, and stopping it at the bottom before reversing feed is usually a big FAIL. I never thought of using a knee feed.

Your mill has no quill stop?

The adjustable stop usually disconnects the feed.

[SteveHGraham]

I get nervous trusting things to stop that close to the vise, but I guess I should get over that. The knee feed does look less annoying though.

[Harold_V]

I'm having a hard time understanding how feeding with the knee would be any different from feeding with the quill. Feed rate and speed of the spindle would remain a constant, so the only thing that would change was what was moving. You'd still face the same issues.

I'm not sure I understand your concern with setting a stop. Unless you mill has issues, and won't kick out as it should, you have nothing to fear.

You might be well served to do a few dry runs, testing the stop feature. That may help build some confidence.

Harold

[martik777]

I have never used a drill chuck on my mill. The ER25 chuck is permanently mounted and handles all my tooling. I must admit, I frequently switch the work to my drill press for drilling/tapping as it is right beside the mill. A full set (1-16mm) and collet chuck is under $70. If you want to use ER collets for the lathe as well, consider ER32 or 40.

[gcarsen]

Another good alternative, but could be a bit spendy unless you can find a good deal on a set.
look into the Hardinge Drill bushings. they come in all sizes that you would use, inch, metric, fractional, number, letter, you name it! they are 5/8 on the od. they are split with a flat on them. a lot of the guys would run them inside of a 5/8 r8 collet in the spindle. I prefer taking one of the old style 5/8 r8 tool holders, turning the end back as shown In the pic to get the clamp screw to line up on the flat. leave it in the spindle, use the clamp screw tighten on the side flat of the bushing. quick easy changing. when changing sizes, just a twist of the clamp screw , drop out, reinsert new size and go. works with drills and end mills .

ran a Bridgeport easy track with the r8 spindle this way. just have as many tool holders with collets to do the job so the tool lengths would stay in line.
Grant

[Jawn]

I have a round column mill/drill and I was wishing I'd had /64 size collets the other day. Needed to mill a recess, then wanted to drill in it without moving the head. Unfortunately the length of a drill chuck and bit is more than I can make up for with spindle travel, so I had to just go ahead and raise the head, then try to find the center of the milled recess.

Such is the shortcomings of the round column.

[SteveM]

I have a round column mill/drill and I was wishing I'd had /64 size collets the other day. Needed to mill a recess, then wanted to drill in it without moving the head. Unfortunately the length of a drill chuck and bit is more than I can make up for with spindle travel, so I had to just go ahead and raise the head, then try to find the center of the milled recess.

Such is the shortcomings of the round column.

This may or may not help depending on how much room you have.

Get a straight shank drill chuck arbor and cut it down to the length that your collet actually grips (which may only be a 1"). Then you only need a small amount of room to remove it.

Steve

[Jawn]

I have a round column mill/drill and I was wishing I'd had /64 size collets the other day. Needed to mill a recess, then wanted to drill in it without moving the head. Unfortunately the length of a drill chuck and bit is more than I can make up for with spindle travel, so I had to just go ahead and raise the head, then try to find the center of the milled recess.

Such is the shortcomings of the round column.

This may or may not help depending on how much room you have.

Get a straight shank drill chuck arbor and cut it down to the length that your collet actually grips (which may only be a 1"). Then you only need a small amount of room to remove it.

Steve

That combined with shorter drill bits may help. Also could use an end mill holder to permit working with the head higher up the column to begin with (instead of putting the end mill directly in the collet).

Thanks for the tip.