Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
I was planning to use 10-24 screws on mine. Any reason I shouldn't stick with 10-32s?
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Assuming the threads are in steel, the fastener itself should have greater tensile strength when selecting a fine series (in this case, the 10-32), as the minor diameter of the thread is larger than it is with the course series (10-24). However, if the mating thread (the B, or internal thread) is in soft material (aluminum, cast iron), the coarse thread is likely a better choice.
Harold
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Harold,
But isn't this also a function of the length of thread? For example, a threaded hole two or three diameters deep in aluminum or c.i. should not strip out, even with a fine thread screw.
But isn't this also a function of the length of thread? For example, a threaded hole two or three diameters deep in aluminum or c.i. should not strip out, even with a fine thread screw.
Dan Watson
Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga, TN
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Correct. If memory serves, a thread (of proper diameter) with 1½ times the diameter in length of engagement should be stronger than the bolt itself. That, of course, isn't true of softer materials, so greater length of engagement is a good idea. However, I think I'd still be inclined to use a coarse thread in cast iron. It's pretty easy to damage fine threads.Fender wrote:Harold,
But isn't this also a function of the length of thread? For example, a threaded hole two or three diameters deep in aluminum or c.i. should not strip out, even with a fine thread screw.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
For those curious, the socket head cap screws I'm using (same as on my mogul boiler steam dome lid) are Kerr 10F75KCS 10-32x3/4, with a tensile strength of 180,000lbs/inch.
Got the inner firebox sheets all ready to go and clamped together to test the fit and squareness. Everything looks good so it's almost time to put the electric glue to it. I have to do my welding outside the back of the shop but it's already in the mid-90s with about 834% humidity here ... I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to go out there and have at it.
Got the inner firebox sheets all ready to go and clamped together to test the fit and squareness. Everything looks good so it's almost time to put the electric glue to it. I have to do my welding outside the back of the shop but it's already in the mid-90s with about 834% humidity here ... I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to go out there and have at it.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Ain't this weather wonderful?John_S wrote:I have to do my welding outside the back of the shop but it's already in the mid-90s with about 834% humidity here ... I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to go out there and have at it.
Curious, what sort of welding process is acceptable for boiler work like this?
-
- Posts: 1274
- Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:39 am
- Location: South Central Alberta
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Stick: 6010 roots 7018 fills and caps. DCRP. If you can get to both sides of a weld, no need for a root. First pass with 7018 grind or gouge to sound metal from the other side then filler up!Jawn wrote:Curious, what sort of welding process is acceptable for boiler work like this?
TIG: ER70S2 or ER70S6 wire, 2% thoriated electrode (although there is a new one out there that I have no experience with but like what I have read and I can't remember the name if it right now), DCSP
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
For all the mild steel stick welds on the boiler I will be using 6011 for root passes and 7018 for cover passes.redneckalbertan wrote:Stick: 6010 roots 7018 fills and caps. DCRP. If you can get to both sides of a weld, no need for a root. First pass with 7018 grind or gouge to sound metal from the other side then filler up!Jawn wrote:Curious, what sort of welding process is acceptable for boiler work like this?
TIG: ER70S2 or ER70S6 wire, 2% thoriated electrode (although there is a new one out there that I have no experience with but like what I have read and I can't remember the name if it right now), DCSP
I will be doing TIG with 312 filler for the stainless bushings to the mild steel with thoriated (red) tungsten electrodes.
-
- Posts: 1274
- Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:39 am
- Location: South Central Alberta
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
I should have said 6010 or 6011 for the root. 6010 is a DC rod, 6011 is the AC equivalent.
What grade of stainless fittings are you using?
What grade of stainless fittings are you using?
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
6011 can be run DCEP, which I plan on doing. Did my mogul boiler root passes with that and it worked wonderfully.redneckalbertan wrote:I should have said 6010 or 6011 for the root. 6010 is a DC rod, 6011 is the AC equivalent.
What grade of stainless fittings are you using?
All of the stainless bushing and pipe fittings are 304.
Got the firebox tacked together this morning. It's only 10:40am and it's already getting too hot, especially wearing jeans and a long sleeve shirt! As you can see I have it clamped together with hardwood blocks to prevent it from warping out of shape while welding. I'm also doing my tacks in a crisscross pattern to help prevent warping as well. Tack one corner, then tack the opposite one on the other side, then back... like the star pattern you use when tightening wheel lug nuts. It's working well as everything has stayed in place thus far.
That's all for today ... I plan on finishing the exterior welding tomorrow morning. Sorry this next photo is a tad fuzzy.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Finished up the root passes on the outside of the firebox. Time for some Honey-Dos.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Finished up the inner firebox yesterday. I'm happy with it. Only minor bowing inward of the side sheets, which can be corrected later when I weld the mudring.