Building the Frisco 1522

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

Moderators: Harold_V, WJH, hwboivin3

Posts: 1275
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:39 am
Location: South Central Alberta

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by redneckalbertan » Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:14 pm

LocoJerome wrote:At least it makes it fun coming home to see what is on the porch but at some point the wife is going to frown.
All you have to do is beat Her home and collect the goods off the porch before She gets there!

User avatar
Benjamin Maggi
Posts: 1262
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:38 pm
Location: Albany, NY

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by Benjamin Maggi » Sun Jun 21, 2015 5:57 am

Greg_Lewis wrote: A basic axiom of machining is that as soon as you place an order for tools or supplies, you'll discover something that should have been on that order. But it will be too late to add to the order and the single item won't make the $25 minimum order.
Or, the $3 part/item you need will cost an additional $9 s/h minimum to order.
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

Posts: 274
Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 8:58 pm

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by GS14403 » Sun Jun 21, 2015 9:49 am

Another thought is to use K60 shafting to run the needle bearings on. The shaft is hard on the surface and not hardened in the center. Order it to length plus about 1/16" or so, best to check with your supplier on how accurate they cut the shafts to. The ends can be machined with carbide, tough but can be done and center-drilled with a normal HSS center drill.

For lubrication you can use a Dremel cutoff wheel and carefully grind a slot in the outer bearing race. Go slow and as you grind and get near the needles you can see a change in color, at that point the metal can be picked out with a sharp scriber type tool. Press the bearing into the box with the ground hole aligned with the drilled grease fitting hole in the axle box.

For side thrust either a plain hardened washer or a thrust needle bearing between 2 hardened washers will work.

GS-1 64.jpg
K60 shafting axles on my lead truck after 20 years of operation. Needle thrust bearings between 2 hardened thrust washers. Single sealed bearing so the grease exits against the thrust washers.
R-GS-1 A420.jpg
Generally the axles on the prototype stick our a little bit beyond the face of the wheels. This does give a little wiggle room when ordering the shafting.

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Sun Aug 30, 2015 2:07 pm

I have been making a little head ways on the pilot truck. I initially purchased some of the components for Little Engines Pacific pilot truck as its design was a very good match to the 1522 prototype. I started machining the center plate that holds the swing links and began to have some concerns. By the time I milled out the slots for the swing links, the remaining material was a little light and I was concerned it would not support the increase weight of a 1.6" scale engine in the event of a pilot truck derailment. I decided to replace it with a new center plate machined from 3/4" steel plate. It took some time to machine out of solid material and the bronze was much more a pleasure to machine than steel but I finally managed it.

I learned a few things along the way on how not to use a slitting saw :shock: and it you put a little to much pressure on a center drill you can break that little pilot tip off :x . That was fun grinding it out to save the part. As I'm sure is typical, that happens towards the end after you have invested some time into the part.

However, the end result feels a lot more study and I suspect something else will break before it ever does.
Milling in the slots for the new center plate.
Broken slitting saw that I don't think I'll be able to glue back together.
Finished center plate top.
Finished center plate bottom.

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Sun Aug 30, 2015 2:34 pm

Since I was machining a new center plate for the swing links from scratch I changed a few dimensions which required me to scratch build new swing links. I went ahead and machined them out of the same 3/4" plate I was using for the center plate.
Roughing out the swing links blocks.
Tapering the sides after cutting off excess in bandsaw.
Swing links ready for rotary table to round the corners.
Rounding the corners and adding the heart slots in the rotary table.
The completed set of swing links.

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Sun Aug 30, 2015 2:36 pm

And finally, a picture of the swing links sitting their respective locations on the center plate.
Swing links sitting in place.

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Fri Sep 11, 2015 6:26 pm

Continuing with the pilot truck, the bolster was chucked up into the lathe and turned and drilled. With the top surface machined I then was able to use the mill to surface the sides to fit into the center plate and drill and ream the holes for the swing link pins. Cast iron is such a joy, although dirty, to machine after the mild steel.

Now onto machining the side frames.
Turning the bolster and boring the hole for the mating surface and king pin.
Machining the sliding surface between the bolster and center plate.
Drilling the swing link pins.
Some of the parts starting to come together.

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Fri Sep 11, 2015 6:55 pm

Question time.....

I've had a couple bad experiences with reamers and was curious what I may be doing wrong if anything. One broke in the lathe and other in the mill and both were 1/4". In both cases I was reaming a hole that was 1/64" undersize. I was running the reamer at the same speed as the drilling operation which was around 200rpm and in both cases I was applying quite a bit of oil (Mobil DTE Medium). I had read somewhere that holes should be reamed in a single motion which I was doing instead of pecked. The first reamer was HSS and seamed to seize up after an inch in. I suspect that chips filled up the teeth and bound the tip. That was until it broke some of the teeth off. :lol: The second reamer was carbide and when I tried to ream some mild steel it quickly shattered the teeth upon entry. I was taking it easy too. I was able to then ream the hole successfully with a HSS reamer with no problem.

So should I be reaming in one motion? Should the reamer run faster, slower or same as drilling? Should I be using a different oil? And is there special considerations when using a carbide tipped reamers. I'm sure different metals come into play but I'm mostly insterested in hot rolled steel and cast iron and maybe 316 stainless. Any suggestions are appreciated!

User avatar
Posts: 224
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 9:56 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by Steamin » Fri Sep 11, 2015 8:12 pm

I usually ream in backgear (75rpm), and use a cutting oil, not a lube oil.
On blind holes I might have to peck, but on through holes the end of the reamer does most of the work and should push the chips down through the hole as you advance.

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Fri Sep 11, 2015 8:28 pm

Thanks Denis. I'll try running slower next time with cutting oil. I have cutting oil but grabbed the lube oil since it was a little thicker and hung onto the tool better.

User avatar
Posts: 398
Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 12:54 pm
Location: Waiting for next assignment!

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by johnpenn74 » Sat Sep 12, 2015 10:25 am

Spindle speed:
The surface speed of the reamer is the same as the spindle for a given selection of cutter and target metals. HSS surface speed is about 100. Your HSS drill and HSS reamer doesn't know the difference. You can slow it down, but then you are reducing the depth of cut, since most reamers have 6 or so flutes and drills have two. That is, you should speed up the verticle feed rate. Don't guess it, calculate the feed based on the surface speed, diameter, number of cutters etc.

My next question is, why are you reaming a drilled hole? I have done it a few times on a CNC mill for 1/4 but remember, a drilled hole is not a precision thing and a reamer is used for ***Sizing*** and does not for alignment, thats what boring bars are for. Drill, bore, ream.

Are you vertically feeding with the same device? Drilling with spindle in mill, but reaming with z axis travel? Something might be out of alignment.

John Pennington

Logging meets that actually move logs

2 Mich-Cal Shays
Allen 4-4-0 Narrow Gauge Conversion
Two Reading A5a Camelback 0-4-0
USRA 0-6-0
4 Western Wheeled Scraper NG Dump Cars
N&W 4-8-2
ICM 2-10-2
4 Modern Stake Cars
L&N Caboose
4 Big Four Conversion Gondolas

Like I'm actually gonna build all this stuff :-P

Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:30 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Building the Frisco 1522

Post by LocoJerome » Sat Sep 12, 2015 6:54 pm

Hi John,

When I calculate spindle speed for 100sfpm I come up with 1500 rpms for 1/4" reamer. This just seems too fast to my untrained mind. In any case my south bend lathe isn't designed for that spindle speed. has a simple speed calculator and they list speeds for reaming and drilling. They recommend a reaming speed of about 2/3rds the drilling speed. For mild steel they list a surface speed around 50 sfpm. This is still 760 rpms which was much faster than I was going.

I saw a YouTube video by the University of Wisconsin that demonstrated reaming a 1/4" hole in mild steel. They drilled the 15/64" hole at 1500+ rpm and reamed at 600rpm. They reamed in one shot and then stopped the mill at the bottom of the hole before lifting the reamer out of the hole. Had never heard of that before.

I'm not precisely placing these holes when using the mill, just need accurate sizing for dowel pins. I was both drilling and reaming by moving the spindle and not the knee. However when reaming on the lathe I can see the benefit of boring first since one is usually wanting the hole concentric with the axis. Guess I need some small boring bars. Add it to the list.

Post Reply