1-1/2" scale freight cars

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Steamingdanny
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:34 am

1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by Steamingdanny »

I started building this Hopper Car, based on Miller's Backyard railroad plans and inspiration.

Some modifications:
I use 1/2" Sandeply plywood
Overall car size is 15" wide (+ribs) and 48" long
I use #8 drywall screws, 1" long (won't be used for load)
Tom Bee frame and working couplers

I had Home Depot rip the plywood to (3) 14" wide pieces (plus the drop)
The first piece was used to set the car width, I laid out the ends and cut with a jig saw.
I laid out the sides and cut with the jig saw
I then made the side ribs, I let dry while assembling the car
I made the long slope insides and attached to the car body
I made the short slopes and inside box filler to clear the frame.
Attachments
Side ribs, 3/32" x 1" with 5/16" square attached with wood glue.
Side ribs, 3/32" x 1" with 5/16" square attached with wood glue.
Overall shape of hopper car
Overall shape of hopper car
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Steamingdanny
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:34 am

Re: 1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by Steamingdanny »

Similar style for the caboose

P1
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Steamingdanny
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:34 am

Re: 1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by Steamingdanny »

Caboose p2

Clear plastic windows were added
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Steamingdanny
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:34 am

Re: 1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by Steamingdanny »

Caboose p3
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Battery box
Battery box
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steamin10
Posts: 6712
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip

Re: 1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by steamin10 »

VERY nice for being a 'woody'. Many people think in term of making metal bodies and the like. I think it is a HOBBY subject to your own trials and trails. I like the individual expression, especially the two bay hopper. (f you go to many meets, you get tired of 20 car trains of T-flats and gondolas, and no caboose). Before the Death of the Caboose/office car, no train was without one.

I like the old tie stuff, with shiny brass, and character locos. Even critters, with short trains, suited to traveling to far flung track in pickups or trailers.

I cant express how much I like the simple answers. Thanks for posting such good pix. I hope to see the end results soon.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Steamingdanny
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:34 am

Re: 1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by Steamingdanny »

Thank you!

I use the wood construction because it's so easy to get a car body built in a day. My dads shop is 5 hours from me and I have to use my shop time wisely. One of the fun things for me is finding a regular piece (like a 4" pvc dome cap) and saying, look a steam dome.

I built my steam engine in 7 weekends. It's an 0-4-0 camelback based on a Ride Trains davenport chassis. Deep discharge batteries. The wood is mostly from a sheet of 4x8 sandeply. I used a piece of sheet steel to make the cab roof and firebox outline. Domes and stack from PVC. The headlight is a lawn lamp with a reduction in brightness.

The tender is a short Tom bee frame, caboose trucks. The body uses door hinges for the angle in the back, which is a storage bay for car keys, wallet, the controller, etc. in the coal bay I bougt a folding cup holder from West Marine. The foot pegs are from a motorcycle store and the seat is from a tractor /farm supply place. Working couplers on all my equipment. Connie miracle vinyl graphics.

The electronics in the tender support a Broadway Limited sound system which is synced to the drive wheels. I have bell and whistle controls plus the constant chuffing which changes with a change in engine speed.
Attachments
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I built the engine in 7 weekends, but I liked the build the tender first approach. It honed my skills and also provided the momentum to keep the project going. It took 2 weekends to build the tender and frame.
I built the engine in 7 weekends, but I liked the build the tender first approach. It honed my skills and also provided the momentum to keep the project going. It took 2 weekends to build the tender and frame.
The sound system mounted underneath the loco engineer on the tender.
The sound system mounted underneath the loco engineer on the tender.
The sound control, Cupholder, and setting up the wiring. Note the 1/2" dia hole for the drawbar pin in the tender floor.
The sound control, Cupholder, and setting up the wiring. Note the 1/2" dia hole for the drawbar pin in the tender floor.
Running my engine at NEOLS. The station in the background was built by my grandfather 20 years ago. Hauling a club riding car. The silver plug in the front of the engine is for the controller. I can run tender first in a switching situation and not be on the tender.
Running my engine at NEOLS. The station in the background was built by my grandfather 20 years ago. Hauling a club riding car. The silver plug in the front of the engine is for the controller. I can run tender first in a switching situation and not be on the tender.
chooch
Posts: 567
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:58 pm
Location: East Central Florida

Re: 1-1/2" scale freight cars

Post by chooch »

Steamingdanny,
That`s going back quite a way using Miller plans. I have some myself as well as newer (old) Bethlehem patterns and parts still in use.
Great looking wood work on your cars.
If you think of building a larger (wood)diesel like a GP and, many other wood builds and cost saving ideas--like your Camel back, this is a Super home build site to look at.

Recent build has been a GP-35-1-1/2" scale-all wood. Builder Photos and Text.

calvertcentral .com

chooch
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