Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

Moderator: Harold_V

ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...Getting Primed!

Finishing wood structures that can handle exposure to climate changes has been a challenge since building rolling stock began. Several methods failed miserably. The first was...coating the wood with a sanding sealer. In short time...the paint finish peeled off. It wasn't until a fellow club member shared his methods with me...that I decided to try that approach on a previous rebuild project. That piece of rolling stock is now going on 5 years...with no signs of paint finish surface degradation. Now, it was time to apply that process once again.

The metal trim was masked off. There was no need to apply primer over metal surfaces that had already been primed. With the caboose body already sand blasted and sanded...a coat of Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer Ultimate Finish was applied by brush. This allows primer to be brushed into the planking V-grooves.
xIMG_5540.JPG
xIMG_5541.JPG
The next step (believe it or not)...when the primer was dry, all the exposed wood work was sanded again. Far as I can tell, this step is used to get primer into the wood pores and remove any remaining "wood fuzz". An angled edge sponge sander works well at this point. The angled edge fits nicely into 60 deg V-groove slots. Yes, each groove was sanded individually. A little extra work up front pays off big time in the final appearance. After everything was sanded, the primer dust was removed by shop vac before a final air pressure blow down.

But wait...there's another priming step to do. This time, using Rustoleum Painter's Touch spray primer. Since the caboose would eventually be painted a red color...a red primer was selected for this (as opposed to a white primer...that might lighten the final red color, or black primer that might darken the final red color). Using the siding grooves, red primer spray was applied in an up-down motion all the way around caboose cabin. After the red primer had dried, the body was masked off so the end platforms could be painted. For this, I used the Painter's Touch satin canyon black spray. I use this paint finish a lot. It has a little more gloss than a matte finish...but no where near the shine of a gloss or semi-gloss paint.
xIMG_5586.JPG
xIMG_5588.JPG
Good news...no more sanding for the caboose cabin. You might have noticed a set of brass trucks under the body. These trucks were selected as I had various parts 'n pieces laying around. Don't recall where the brass side frames came from. Perhaps from an Annual Meet Flea Market table purchase. The bolsters were leftover from some other project. Spring would come from another source. In short...the trucks were a mish-mash of various things laying around. I'll get to the truck work later on.

Here's some of the Rustoleum products used as part or the priming process in the event you're heading to the store to look the products mentioned.
P3140010.JPG
Next post...final body painting. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...Paint the Town!

With the priming out of the way, it was time to apply the final paint finish. For this, I selected a Rustoleum Painter's Touch Colonial Red. This red (and there are LOTS of red colors)...was not too orange and not to purple or burgundy. Seemed to be just right. Three light spray applications were made. This was done to avoid paint runs, but in addition, insure the plank face and each surface of V-groove was adequately covered. Follow instructions as far as re-coat time allowance. If possible, get a strong light to help you see the "wet line" from each pass with the spray can. When the paint was dry, here's the reward for all the time spent sanding and priming...
xIMG_5669.JPG
xIMG_5709.JPG
xIMG_5711.JPG
With the caboose body painting completed, I'm going to switch over to the detail work that had been going on in the basement shop. You'll see how some of the "caboose gingerbread" was created to mimic items installed on the real Rutland caboose at Steamtown RR Museum.

Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
chooch
Posts: 567
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:58 pm
Location: East Central Florida

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by chooch »

Hey, Thanks. Good info about the (black) Paint you used. Looking Great.
chooch
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...Roofs 'R Us!

My apologies people...I was going to move on to detail fabrication, but realized that would be jumping ahead a little far at this point. Let me back up and continue with other caboose "body work"...this time, the roof. Here too, have to thank my fellow club member (with the wood siding treatment)...as he had this roof treatment up his sleeve. He used this process for his Keith Jackman SP cupola caboose project. When I saw that roof...I knew that was the way to prepare a good looking caboose roof texture. The same treatment could also be used for passenger cars...with either wood or probably metal roofs. So, before I get into this...let me 1st show you the end result...and then I'll cover the points that led to the finished product.
IMG_5843.JPG
Alright, now lets go back to the start. When the caboose was originally built, luan plywood was used for the roof skin. Thin enough and flexible enough that it could be glued and secured to the rounded roof struts. That roof was painted and sand sprinkled over the wet paint. In time, the plywood laminations separated and the sand texture chipped off...that roof had to be replaced. The 2nd time around...3-ply 1/4" thick plywood was used. The underside of the plywood was scored with a table saw with 1" wide spaces. You'll see this when I get to the new cupola roof. Carefully, I cut through 2 of the 3 plys to get the plywood to wrap over the curved roof struts. The finish on the 2nd roof never got beyond the prime and enamel paint stage. Here's the roof when this rebuild project was started...you will see also the surface cracks that appeared in the enamel finish after several years exposure to the elements...
IMG_5672.JPG
IMG_5762.JPG
Okay, time to start the demolition. Wasn't going to clean everything off the roof skin, but as much as needed for the new treatment. 1st...all the roof walk material was removed. All of the roof walk materials would be re-used for the new roof.
IMG_5763.JPG
This was followed by roof walk riser removal from the center walk to the roof sides. The rest of the roof was sanded and taken back down to bare wood. Along the way, the old nail holes would be filled and sanded down to roof skin level as well.
IMG_5767.JPG
In the next installment...will continue with roof preparations and modifications for the cupola. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...Roof work moves forward!

As the roof rebuild continues, I took all the roof walk materials and ran them thru the sand blast cabinet. Guess I got a little too "aggressive" with the blasting as the pine wood grain was really raised. Since there would be leftover material, the "choice" pieces were selected for reuse.
IMG_5783.JPG
Next...I knew the new cupola was going to be wider than the original. However, when the new cupola front/rear face wood would be cut, I didn't want to match the original roof arc. So, the entire roof was clamped to the mill table...and a 1" cutter used to remove as much of the roof to create flat areas on the sides for the new cupola...with the final width across the new "flats" to be as wide as the new cupola. There's nothing like having a nice, rigid (and expensive) router, but it sure beat using files, or chisels or other hand held tools of destruction.
IMG_5782.JPG
IMG_5784.JPG
With the cupola flats taken care of, it was time to prepare the roof edges. The original roof had "screen moulding" glued and nailed along the length of the side edges. Since the lower rounded moulding edge was no longer needed (or wanted)...the roof was passed over the table saw to remove that rounded corner. The ends needed similar edging for the roof treatment. A couple piece of of pine were cut to a similar dimension. They were soaked in hot water for about an hour. Glue was applied and the 1st end secured with small brad nails. The wood strip was then bent/curved and secured every couple of inches as the wood strip was "walked" along the roof edge until the far side was anchored. When dry, the corners were sanded square and any wood sticking above the roof line was sanded smooth.
IMG_5809.JPG
Hold on...roof treatment gets real interesting next. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...Ventilation Required!

Now we'll get into the heart of the roof treatment. For this, I used some SIG's Stix-It. This is a heat activated adhesive. Instructions say to use in a well ventilated area. Let me add...a VERY WELL ventilated area! This material has toluene and MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) solvent base which is used as a transport agent for the adhesive. The material is VERY aromatic...to put it lightly. If you're looking for a quick buzz...forget about ventilation! With these solvents...this stuff dries fast. Brush it on like paint...overlap the brush strokes. This material can be found in a well stocked R/C aircraft hobby store. I purchased mine on-line. Cost was about $16 for a pint. There's no reason to "stock up" and buy a large quantity (unless you've got multiple roof projects going). Chances are the next time I might need this...it won't be good.
caboose roof1.jpg
Two coats of SIGs were applied using a medium grade brush. No need to get a fancy brush 'cause when you're done, you're going to toss the brush in the garbage. Here's what the roof looked like after the adhesive application.
IMG_5817.JPG
Prior to this, I went with my wife (a seamstress) to a local fabric store to get some denim. That's right...the base material for this roof treatment is something similar to work jeans. Little did I realize there was more than 1 type of denim to choose from. More like...about 2 dozen types of material in the rack. Denim is available in light weights...heavy weights...fine grains...coarse grains. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get to the fabric store. I selected a middle "weight" denim with a grain that was middle of the range as well. Color didn't matter. Purchased 1.5 yards worth of material for a 34.5 foot scale caboose.

Another piece of advice...being a heat activated adhesive, you use an iron to soften the adhesive while pressing down on the denim to get the material to adhere. DO NOT use your wife's best clothes iron. Probably spent $12 to $15 at Walmart for a simple, low end, iron. Something that could be thrown away when the job was done (didn't have to do this). Of course, if your wife is looking for a new iron...maybe you can get the hand-me-down, but that new iron will cost you more!

When I got home, my wife cut the denim into (6) pieces as needed to cover the roof and an overlap down the roof center line and more material to hang down over the wood trim edge around the roof perimeter. In other words, cut the fabric panels over-sized. I began by setting the two narrow cupola side pieces. The denim was positioned...and then heat applied to "tack" the denim in place. Once satisfied the denim was position properly...I went over the material like I was trying to press a piece of clothing. Try to avoid wrinkles...but if you don't like the way the denim is going down...apply heat and pull the fabric up. Adjust...reheat and press the denim in place.
IMG_5818.JPG
Where the denim material would overlap...I scribed a line showing the overlap area and applied some more SIG's. After that, the other (4) pieces for the major roof covering were applied. The denim was attached up to the ends of the roof risers. Two slits were cut for the denim to lay down alongside the risers and then fastened in place with heat. The "tab" that remained was cut off. I chose this method to get around the risers to avoid cutting a rectangular hole and worrying about an over-sized opening. Besides...most of these seams would be hidden under the roof walk.
IMG_5819.JPG
Work continued to attach the other denim panels.
IMG_5820.JPG
Next installment...we'll finish up the main caboose roof treatment. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...the end is in sight!

Finally, all the denim material was attached to the roof. The overlapped material was properly heated and secured to previously applied denim panels. Material was cut to fit the denim around the roof risers.
IMG_5821.JPG
The roof was turning into..."a beautiful thing"! But wait...there's still work to do. All the edges had to be secured. For this, the roof was turned upside down, superglue was applied to the wooden roof edge (about 1 to 1.5 inches at a time) and the denim pulled up against the edge until the glue took hold (not...don't touch the wet area of the denim as you move along). This is the reason for the excess material around the roof perimeter. After all edges had been secured...I went around with a shop knife to remove any excess material. Some light sanding was needed to remove some of the extra cloth fuzz.

From this point, I added the new roof walk risers. On the Rutland caboose...the roof planking was level with the center roof walk...it did not follow the curvature of the roof. There was a step down to get around the cupola...and more roof risers along the side of the cupola. Roof risers were made with some 1/2" thick pin boards. They were sanded to coincide with the roof curvature. Drilled for finishing nails. Glued and set in place...right over the denim covered roof. I used painters caulk to put a fillet around each of the new roof risers. And then..."Houston, we have a problem!"
IMG_5827.JPG
I didn't realize beforehand that the caulk would create a drastic difference in texture appearance. This was not acceptable. The train show was approaching fast and I wanted to show case the rebuild project. What to do? I went back to one of the original roof methods...I sprinkled fine grain sand in the wet paint. That was enough to remove the smooth, shiny surface.
IMG_5834.JPG
IMG_5836.JPG
The entire paint finish process went something like this...1st apply 2 coats of brush on enamel (color of your choice)...2nd apply 3 coats of spray paint. What this does is subdue the grain in the denim material. After all, we're trying to achieve a tar paper roof type look...and not something that looks like a roof covered with someone's old pants. Since the roof was one of the last items I completed on this project...I had to get this ready for train show. I had fans and heaters set up to accelerate the drying. I was applying re-coats in 6 to 8 hours as opposed to the prescribed 12 hours. It worked. And this brings us back to the photo posted at the start of the roof treatment...
IMG_5843.JPG
From here, when I continue, I show how the new cupola came together. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...time for a proper topper!

Finishing up the caboose roof wood work, it was now time to fabricate the new cupola. If you followed this thread from the start, I pointed out the original cupola "looked" too tall. In fact, the cupola height might have been to scale...but due to the way the cupola was constructed...it ended up being way too narrow. The combination of dimensions made that cupola look way too tall. Kinda reminded me of a stovepipe hat.

New England style cabs had short, squat cupolas because of low tunnel clearances. For this part of the rebuild...a more fitting cupola would be constructed. Started with some 1/4" plywood. This would be covered over with 1/4" thick planks. Final wall thickness would be approx. 1/2". Didn't need to be more than that since this isn't a structural member.
IMG_5804.JPG
Additional planks were needed. These were ripped from some leftover shelving boards in the shop. They were cut to 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick (nominal). Once I knew I had enough material (with a few boards extra), the router was set up to bevel the edges. Finger boards were clamped to the router table and fence to hold the planks down on the table and against the 60" deg router bit for edge beveling.
IMG_5802.JPG
Planks were cut to length as needed. A piece of plywood was cut to the inside dimension of the cupola to hole it square and provide support as the planks were glued and nailed in place. Starting from the corners...planks were set in place and nailed. The center planks were trimmed to fit.
IMG_5805.JPG
After the glue had dried (overnight), the top/bottom edges as well as the sides were belt sanded to fit. To make the cupola as short as possible, I wanted no more than 1/8" between the roof walk board and the bottom of the window...and no more than 1/8" between the top of the window and the bottom of the 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" alum trim that would surround the cupola top edge. This was the minimum height. The cupolas was installed in the roof with a window frame (I'll get back to window frame fabrication) and some roof walks set in place loose. Here's how this was going to look.
IMG_5806.JPG
When I was satisfied with the appearance and fit, it was time to start the finishing process. This was the same methodolgy as used for the 'boose cabin. After sanding, apply a brush-on coat of primer. When the primer was dry, sand the plank faces and V-grooves.
IMG_5807.JPG
After the primer sanding the next coat was a spray on primer (I used red primer again). With the cupola taken care of (except for final painting), it was time to fabricate a new roof. We'll pick up here in the next installment. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild con't...another roof!

To build the new cupola roof, most of the materials were found in the scrap pile. Nothing more than cut-offs was needed. Roof struts and other pieces were cut, glued and nailed to overhang the front/rear and sides of the cupola. With all the wood work in the roof frame, it almost ended up being a solid piece of lumber.
IMG_5829.JPG
Once the frame was assembled, I had to make sure the frame would fit in the cupola opening. I left about an 1/8" gap all the way around. Later on, this space would be taken up by felt strips or "bullet catches" to help hold the roof in place.
IMG_5832.JPG
Next, it's time to cut a piece of 1/4" plywood for the roof. You'll see when we get to the denim roof treatment the score marks that were cut on the underside of the plywood to allow it to curved over the roof struts...glued and nailed.
IMG_5833.JPG
Once the roof skin was in place, and excess material hanging over the edges would be sanded off. Once those edges were squared up, trim wood was added to the roof edges in preparation for the denim roof covering. Here again, the wood strips for the ends of the cupola were soaked in hot water to make them a little more forgiving when it came time to bend the curve.
IMG_5837.JPG
At this point, the roof is ready for the denim texture treatment. This starts with 2 coats of SIG's Stix-It heat activated adhesive. We'll pick up here in the next installment. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild cont'd...cupola roof covering.

The cupola roof covering was the same as the main caboose roof. Here's a few photos showing the progression from "ironing" the denim on the roof, using the Superglue to adhere the edges, denim trimming and painting. Now you'll be able to see the table saw "score marks" on the underside of the plywood. Blade height was set to cut thru about 1.5 of the plys. Better to start with the blade low and increase the height until the plywood has a nice flexible condition.
IMG_5840.JPG
Once the denim was applied, I decided this time to cut square corners instead of lapping the denim across the corner. Thought this was a little easier to hold in place while the glue set and when it was all done...nobody would see the corner seam anyway.
IMG_5841.JPG
It's a slow process...to pull up the loose denim edge, apply the superglue to the wood and then hold the cloth in position until the glue sets. I worked in increments of 1 to 1.5 inches.

I'll jump back to cover the window frames and cutting the window frame openings in the cupola. Until next time...Carl B.
IMG_5844.JPG
After that going around the entire cupola roof, a shop knife was used to remove the excess material. Mind you, this isn't as easy as it looks. Dried Superglue is tough stuff. Took my time. Had to go over a few places more than once. When the cutting was done, I used sanding sponges to remove the last few rough edges. What comes next? Painting.
IMG_5845.JPG
If you recall, the paint process consists of (2) coats of brush on enamel followed by (3) coats of spray enamel. The first coat pretty much gets sucked up by the denim. Hence, the need for additional coats as the denim textured is diminished.
IMG_5849.JPG
Allowing sufficient time between coats...when it was done and the cupola corner grab irons/hand holds installed...this was the final result.

Next installment, I'll go back and cover the window frame fabrication and cupola window frame cut outs. Until then...Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild con't...need some lites

When we last left the caboose rebuild project...the cupola was assembled, a roof fabricated and given the denim treatment for texture. What was still lacking were caboose windows. While you might find some old caboose cupolas without windows...most cupolas were equipped with windows so the rear end crew members could monitor the train...or simply watch the scenery go by. To me, the cupola wouldn't look right without some windows.

The original cupola caboose used die cast window frames that were purchased from a hobby supplier. Die cast window frames were available in (3) sizes: a small, medium and large. The caboose cabin used the medium size windows. The cupola used (8) of the small window frames. These measured approx. 2-3/4" x 2-1/8". The frames had a recess on the back side deep enough to allow a piece of 1/16" plexiglass to be inset for window panes.
xIMG_5408.JPG
Problem was...after drawing up several different window configurations, I decided the new cupola would need a total of (10) frames...2 more than I had from the old cupola. Several hobby suppliers that carried these windows were contacted. NOBODY had these in stock. NOBODY knew when parts would be available. I was already working with someone that was doing some casting work for me. Asked if he'd be interested in casting window frames. At first, a complete 3-lite window frame was too large for his flasks. When I asked about casting (10) smaller pieces...he respectfully declined because of time constraints. No problem...at that point, I had to fend for myself.

With no other solution at hand...it was time to push the "not-so-easy" button and make my own window frames. I needed 2 different sizes: a) the 2-lite side windows would measure 2.150" high x 7.5" long, and b) the 3-lite windows for the front/rear of the cupola would measure 2.150" high x 11.25" long. After some 1/4" aluminum flat stock was squared up...I basically cut everything away that didn't look like a window frame.

Next, we see the window frames cut to size and the first recessed edge cut around the perimeter on the back side of the window. This is the lip that will be set into the window opening cutouts on the cupola.
xIMG_5508.JPG
After that, the interior opening was removed using a roughing end mill cutter. The window openings were cut short in both directions to allow for final cleanup using a 1/8" diameter mill cutter...while taking VERY light cuts. This would leave a small radius in the corners. I opted to leave the radius as is instead of filing the corner square. Filing the corners would not be possible with the outer most recess on the face and the plexiglass inset on the back. Therefore, during the same sequence of operations, the recess was cut on the back of the window frame for the plexiglass inset.
xIMG_5518.JPG
The window frames were flipped right-side up and the front side recess was cut to make the "window trim" stand out. Here again, the final cuts were made using an 1/8" end mill.
xIMG_5553.JPG
When all the milling work was complete, shallow holes were drilled and tapped for 6-32 threaded studs. These served no other purpose than to give the window frame something else to be held in the window opening using contact cement. If you go back and look at the original die cast window, you'll see the injection risers on the back side. Those too, were used to help hold the window in place. In the end...you don't see this when the interior window is trimmed.
xIMG_5567.JPG
With window frame fabrication completed...the frames were sand blasted to remove the tooling marks...and then primed using a self-etch automotive primer before the final painting. Similarly, the final dimensions for the window frame opening could be cut in the cupola walls. Will get to that in the next installment. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2229
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Cupola Caboose Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Caboose Rebuild con't...window cut-outs.

Now that the new window frames were ready (machined, sand blasted and primed), it was time to cut some openings in the cupola. Once again...the expensive router (milling machine) was called on to cut openings that would be square and straight. All window frames would be centered left to right in the walls with the appropriate distance down from the top to leave a 1/8" space between the alum trim and the top of the window frame. A roughing cutter had no problem cutting thru the 2 layers of plywood and pine planking. The more difficult problem...how to clamp and hold the caboose while all the window openings were cut out.
IMG_5838.JPG
With the wall openings removed...it was time for a trial fit. The window frame just fit in the opening...which would be perfect when the contact cement was applied to hold the frame in place.
IMG_5839.JPG
The alum corner trim was cut to fit and nailed in place from the top surface. This way, nobody would see the nail heads. AND...the nails wouldn't be poking thru into the cupola interior. With the cupola still in primer red on the outside, the interior was painted a light gray to match the interior of the cabin. When the gray paint on the inside was dry, the window openings were masked (on the inside) so the cupola exterior could be painted the same red as the cabin. The window frames were also painted the same red. When the paint was dry, contact cement was applied behind the window frame in the perimeter recess. More cement was placed in the window corners. The windows were set in place and clamped.
IMG_5847.JPG
Window glazing was cut to fit. Two different sizes were needed...2 pieces each. The 1/16" plexiglass was measured, scored and snapped apart over a sharp bench corner. Any burrs were removed by scraping lengthwise with a shop knife.

If I remember correctly, 1/8" x 3/8" basswood strips were glued together to form and uneven wood angle. These were painted interior gray as well. The bass wood was easily cut with a razor saw...the upper and lower window trim needed corner cutouts on both ends. The vertical window trim were straight cuts. Vertical trim pieces were cut for a snug fit. When satisfied the trim was cut properly...contact cement was once again used on the back side of the trim pieces to hold the plexiglass glazing in place.
IMG_5851.JPG
When the roof met the cupola for the first time...here was the end result. Mission accomplished...a New England style full width, shorty cupola.
IMG_5854.JPG
The cupola caboose body work was now complete. It's time to turn to the details. Keep in mind...while the cabin work was moving forward at a remote shop, the detail work was done at home in the basement shop. With the next installment, we'll start looking at the fabrication for various details. Stay tuned. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
Post Reply