7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

Moderators: Harold_V, WJH, hwboivin3

marshall5
Posts: 134
Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:20 am
Location: Isle of Man & Boise

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by marshall5 » Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:28 am

Lucius, I don't have a full set of drawings but I'll try and answer your question re-the 2 types of Buffer beams on the full size ones. The early Dinorwic Quarry Hunslets had shallow buffer beams which were curved at the ends. The last 3, No1(aka Dolbadarn), No2(aka Joan) and Michael all had deep buffer beams square at the ends (and the dome on the boiler barrel rather than on the firebox). The Milner Hunslet isn't an exact copy of any particular loco - mine has the deep buffer beams of the later locos but 'early' type boiler. There are drawings for both steel and copper boilers. If you decide to go with the steel one it might be worth checking the WA state boiler regs as I believe the design no longer complies with the U.K. regs. This is due to the girder stays not being 'tied' to the outer wrapper. The copper version is direct stayed so is O.K. BTW, if it's any consolation parts of the boiler drawings I got from Reeves are also unreadable - "could do better" IMHO.
Good luck with your project.
Ray.

lucius Gale
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2017 4:32 pm

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by lucius Gale » Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:09 pm

Glenn i was just figuring the 7 1/2 gauge was made up by working with the wheels and the axles and boxes? Were talking 1/8 inch per side. I don't think you change anything about the frame or even the running gear BUT I don't actually know. I will PM Fred if no one gives a definitive answer here.

Enid thanks for clarifying that. My frames (Reeves) seem to be cut for the "A" design and that looks the way the original "Alice" was made. "Alice" is what I wish to follow.. Thank you for the "catch" on the .06. I found it on H102 (2nd plans sheet showing the frame) but it would be easy to miss! Also on all the angles Fredv pointed out to take a cut on one side to square them.

marshall5
Posts: 134
Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:20 am
Location: Isle of Man & Boise

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by marshall5 » Sat Apr 08, 2017 3:01 am

Lucius, there is already very little clearance between the face of the leading crankpin and the back of the crosshead so just having longer axles and wider axleboxes won't work. You might be able to get away with 1/8" packing pieces between the cylinders and the frames and make the motion bracket 1/8" wider to suit. If it were me I'd be tempted to fit 1/4" wider frame spacers and buffer beams as it would give you a bit more space for the firebox between the frames but you'd have to also widen the smokebox to suit the wider frame spacing. Whichever route you take there's going to be lots of "what else is going to be affected if I do this or that". The book "Quarry Hunslets of North Wales" is a mine of useful information on these little beasts.
Cheers,
Ray.

Glenn Brooks
Posts: 1452
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by Glenn Brooks » Sun Apr 09, 2017 10:49 pm

Ray, you mentioned fitting a 1/4" wider frame spacer. Conrad, our local Hunselt enthusiast added I think, 3/8" frame spacers to make everything fit. Know I know why!

Glenn,
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

lucius Gale
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2017 4:32 pm

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by lucius Gale » Mon Apr 10, 2017 9:57 am

Thank you to all for following this. Saturday I spent the morning at Kitsap Live Steamers and got several good pictures of Conrad's 3' scale Hunslet and lot's of good advice. It appears an overall widening of the frame by 3/8" is needed. I have a PM in to Fred V about this and will wait for his confirmation before drilling holes.

Drawing problems:
From Fred V thread:
1. Holes for the spring bolts should be drilled closer together by about 1/8" each side
2. Be careful to get the frames spread to 11.375
3. Square the angle iron in the mill

My own set of drawings ha many blurred hand written notes in the lower right corners. Any help would be very appreciated.
Drawing number and problem indicated by "X"'s:

H101 "2-2-79 3 Water Pump XXXted"?
"X-3-78 X H-XXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXX Added"

H102 "2-12-78 2 VXXXX XXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXX 2 1/8" XXS (See Mod Sht)

H105 "2-2-79 Axle Dim XXXXXX CoXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX TXXXXXXXXXXXX DimXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX"

H107 "2-2-79 3 Exp Link 9/16 XXXX corrected to 9/32 CrossXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX width added"

H109 "2-2-XX 2 XXXXXXXXXX PXXX Ring DimXXXxXx 6 5/16 X 1 3/X added X CollXXXXXXXXXXXx
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX ring DXXXXXXXXXXX amendment

And I will stop here at H109 for now. Thanks all!

jma1009
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:18 am

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by jma1009 » Tue Apr 11, 2017 3:31 am

Hi Lucius,

It is a bit too late now, but the 3" scale Quarry Hunslet in 7.25"g marketed by Reeves in the UK is a far superior design when compared to the Milner design you are using.

You have arleady noted various problems so far.

When you get to the valve gear and cylinders and those dreadful circular steam chests is when the real problems start!

Ray (Marshall5) and Fred V know very well my views on the above, and they have been discussed awhile back on another forum.

I wont repeat these views again on here, but here is the link to the discussion on Fred's build

http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/98 ... ngs#page=2

Cheers,
Julian

EnidPuceflange
Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:07 am
Location: Kentucky

Re: 7 1/2 gauge 4" Hunslet build, Reeves castings

Post by EnidPuceflange » Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:47 am

I'm not sure that you HAVE to modify the frames to get 7 1/2" gauge - I know I didn't. The tender is tight, but I took 1/16" off the inside of the axleboxes and that worked for me. The engine itself worked as-is (although full disclaimer - I'm at the rolling chassis stage, rather than the Fred stage...)

You do have to shave the brake shoes, and I remember thinking there was enough metal machined off each of the driving wheels to make a second wheel...

Hope this helps....
Enid

Post Reply