SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

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rkcarguy
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:26 am

When I went to tech school, the lathes were pretty beat. We had to turn a diameter close to finish size, then file/sand it to the right size. Something that made a world of difference to me, was adding magnetic dial indicators onto the lathe. Then in the case of your multiple steps there, I'd draw a "path" as to how the dials read to cut each step. Just don't forget that unlike your lathe, you'll be cutting 2x whatever you dial in for your cut.
Progress is good:)

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster » Mon Apr 30, 2018 3:11 pm

I already learned that one the hard way. Thought my DRO was broken. I needed the dia xx smaller , so I cranked the slide in that much. The shaft was, of course smaller than intended. I felt pretty dumb once I figured it out.

I finished this axle and it is my best yet...and the first one I would have paid someone for. the flaws exceed my ability to measure them. So far, the slave gear and one wheel slipped on like a glove once heated.

I keep a drawing of the axles above the lathe. This time I realized that I have a 1.375" surface for the wheels, and it wouldn't matter if the end were slightly chamfered. So on the final pass I cut a fraction on the end of the step, stop the lathe, and measure. If it is too deep, I correct it then before cutting any further. If it is not deep enough, I do the same. Not industrial grade, but it worked out really well for me.

rkcarguy
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Location: Wa State

Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy » Mon Apr 30, 2018 5:40 pm

Sounds like you're getting the hang of it. Been there done that on cutting a little bit, measuring, then go, haha.
So hows the little lathe working? How much of a cut are you able to take?

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster » Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:04 pm

The 16" bed upgrade was good, The DRO is money well spent, and the 4" 4 jaw chuck has made a world of difference. So much better than the original 3 jaw that I use it even on the round bar stock.

Generally I take about .017. It does that very nicely. If I go more (and I can/have) it gets more chatter than I am comfortable with and I don't want to beat the cross slide. There is an easy way to stiffen up the slide, but I haven't bothered yet.. I am usually out 8 - 11 inches from the headstock too. It might do better if I were closer. A36 Hot Rolled Mild Steel Round.

Speaking of the 4 jaw...check this out:
classification.jpg

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:12 pm

word of my project has circulated throughout the neighborhood...and a guy drove up tonight and dropped this off for me to use:
Attachments
IMG_20180430_193946[1].jpg

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Dick_Morris
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by Dick_Morris » Tue May 01, 2018 3:30 am

Putting your lathe on a piece of 3/8 or thicker plate or a piece of channel iron might help with the chatter by making the bed more rigid and adding some mass. Use shims and a precision level to make sure you aren't stressing the bed when you bolt it down.

Nice neighbor!

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster » Tue May 01, 2018 10:07 am

Great point about the lathe. currently sitting on a sheet of MDF on 2 plastic sawhorses :-)

I've never met the guy who dropped off the MIG welder. I was pretty surprised to say the least.

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NP317
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by NP317 » Tue May 01, 2018 10:20 am

Was the welder a loan, or a gift?
Regardless: Nice Neighbor!
~RN

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster » Tue May 01, 2018 4:46 pm

Loan, no return date - he isn't using it right now...

I bought some .030 wire and tips this morning and have been watching YouTube. :-)

I helped a guy move this morning. He was throwing out some speaker stands. I now have two 4' pieces of 3" dia steel pipe and 3 pc of 1 5/8" steel pipe. There was more of the smaller dia but I couldn't think of what to do with it. I was looking for 2.75" pipe for the air tanks on the loco, but for free, I think I can move up to 3"

rkcarguy
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy » Tue May 01, 2018 5:07 pm

senorgilamonster wrote:
Tue May 01, 2018 4:46 pm
I was looking for 2.75" pipe for the air tanks on the loco, but for free, I think I can move up to 3".
At this scale, I think it's ok to upsize or downsize to use what you've got. I've found many pictures of the same make/model locomotives with different sized air tanks, having been replaced with not exactly the same one. 1/4" off is only 1 to 1-1/2" off in full size, no big deal.

2-1/2" pipe measures 2.875" on the outside.

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster » Wed May 02, 2018 7:31 pm

After 105 days - the first part for the SP1 is finally completed! Huzzah.
Retainer.jpg
That is the Journal Box (pillow block) retainer. 1st of 7.

I put the new pipe up against the fuel tank - it is a great size (maybe a bit undersized even)
air tankTest.jpg
Finally I played with the MIG welder some. I burned out 4 tips in less than 4". I cannot afford to use the machine that way...so used the stick for the rest of today. Additionally, the tip that was on it had serious tool marks on it, and the new tips don't want to easily thread into the part that holds them (and I am not going to force them on someone else's machine). Since I wasn't threading them all the way on, they stuck out past the cone more than they should, so that may have contributed, but the first one was no different. I assume that I am either going to fast, or that the feed speed is too low.

rkcarguy
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Location: Wa State

Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy » Thu May 03, 2018 10:47 am

It could be either too fast or too slow actually. Is the torch wanting to push away from the part and sputtering? That would indicate power too low. Too high and the wire will sort of pop, and can repeatedly stick in the tip. This can be cleaned up if you can get the wire to come out and have a tip cleaner on hand.
it looks like it has a settings chart on the side of the machine, where are your settings at?

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